switching from dino to synth (when)

I'd change oil at 500, 1500, 3000, and 6000 & switch to a full synthetic at

6k.. but I'm anal. Your call.. just don't do it too quickly or you'll be wasting money (from having to switch often).

-Mike

wrote the following, which while being attributed to fact was none the less being challenged::

I wouldn't call that anal. I'd call it..... frugal ;)

Breaking in a new engine should be done with standard oil, and then switched to synth at around the third oil change. The mileages you stated sound about right.

Wm

I talked to the engine builder this evening and asked him what he thought. He said to wait to 10,000 miles to switch. Opinions?

Your call. I'd switch at 6k.. 7k latest. But again.. I'm anal.

-Mike

I had asked a mechanic the same question about a month ago. His explanation was that you should wait until 10,000 miles or so to give the rings enough time to seat (I hope that's the right word). Otherwise, the synthetic oil has a tendency to work its way past the rings. No idea if this is true or not, just repeating was I was told. CobraJet, feel free to jump in and ridicule me if it's not ;)

Peace,

Alan Wedin

I change the oil after cam break-in... you did break the cam in, right??? About 20 minutes at 2000ish RPM does the trick. When you change to synth depends a lot on cylinder finish and ring choice. I run synthetics in any geared assemblies but no longer run them in motors.... my choice, you can do what you please.... Chrome rings require an extended break in period.... using synthetics too early can affect the time it takes for the rings to seat. Moly faced rings seat quickly and don't need synthetics until later in life. Good old cast iron rings respoind to sythetics reasonably well between

2000 and 5000 miles..... notice the use of "reasonably well".... Of course, 35+ years doing this means little when so many can report "pants-o-meter" improvements simply from changing to synthetics. Caveate emptor....

I can't comment on your rebuilder other than you haven't mentioned the aforesaid cam break-in..... this is quite naughty. This absolutely needs to be done if the cam is not a roller set-up.

Bull. I'd change it day one. At the first oil change if I was being cheap. Engines do not need that much breakin time and there is no reason in the world to use inferior oil to do it. Either keep conventional for ever or change. DOn't be wishy-washy!

Ask him exactly why.

Okay, so if synthetic oil is SO miraculous and provides such magically delicious lubrication properties that it will keep the rings from seating properly, wouldn't that mean it would be so much better than convetional oil that an engine would NEVER wear out and everyone in the world would know by now? LOL Now if a manufacturer is using a special oil for engine break in and you are then required to put something different in at the first change that is differe (ie: VW diesels) but if they are claiming certain breaking qualities of any typical conventional over synthetic I don't believe it. Of course That line is good for catching a mechanic who says he really doesn't believe in synthetic oils, but you need to wait a thousand miles to use it or the rings won't seat. LOL

WindsorFox[SS] wrote the following, which while being attributed to fact was none the less being challenged::

But wishy-washy is good :)

Wm

Scott, the only drawback to using a synthetic oil while the rings are seating is that comparitively expensive oil is being consumed/burned during this period. Your engine wont blow up, the paint will not fade, the stereo will not go on the fritz, heck you will not even get corns on your feet! :-)

The thing to monitor to determine when the piston rings have seated, is oil consumption. Keepl a log of how much oil you have to add vs how many miles have been driven. When things settle down, i.e. oil consumption seems to be normal and have leveled off, then this would be a good time to switch over to the better synthetic oil. When this period occurs is dependent on what type of piston rings were used. Some rings are very soft and seat virtually at the first turn of the key, other rings are hard and take a while to seat.

Millions of cars from all over the world come O.E. factory equipped with synthetic oils in their engines crankcases and the piston rings seat just fine.

All the Best, Steve

15 year independent AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer Offering wholesale prices to all Send me an e-mail for more information.

To respond via e-mail, simply take the, "REMOVEXX" out of my return e-mail address.

On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 08:11:25 -0500, "WindsorFox[SS]"

** Bull. I'd change it day one. At the first oil change if I was being ** cheap. Engines do not need that much breakin time and there is no ** reason in the world to use inferior oil to do it. Either keep ** conventional for ever or change. DOn't be wishy-washy!

I tend to agree.

Modern engines don't require much of a break-in period at all. Older engines needed time for the seals to absorb petroleum and 'swell and seal' properly, and the rings/cam faces benefitted from some time with petroleum as well. Modern seals don't care one way or the other, however if chrome-moly rings (or something similarly hard) were used, I'd wait a few months before switching.

I've never met anyone who had a bad experience from running synthetics from day one. I ran Charlene 300 miles before switching, and she's running perfectly and doesn't use a drop of oil. A gal I know who just put in a Ford rebuilt 302 has used Mobil One 5w30 since day one, and after 6 months, same deal: it runs perfectly and doesn't use a drop of oil.

Synthetic oil *does* lubricate much better than petroleum, and does cut wear down to nearly nothing. Take this into account when making your decision.

-JD

________________________________________________________ | | | 1998 Laser Red GT RAMFM Member Since 1998 | | M-5400-A Suspension http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams || Subframe Connectors & Seat Bracing, Strut Tower Brace || 4-point K-frame Brace, Tremec T-45 & OEM 3.27:1 Gears ||________________________________________________________|

I appreciate the help guys, but just to clarify a bit. This is a '68 302 block, not a *modern* motor. I don't know if that changes anything.

I just put a new 306 in my '68 Galaxie 500. At the 3,000 miles oil change on a whim I deicded to go with a synthetic blend. I haven't had any trouble, and I can tell you that just from pouring a synthetic blend in the motor it pours and flows much more easily. It's almost like water rather than oil, at least in how easily it flows. I'm now at about 5,000 miles. Heck, it's almost time to change the oil again! I'm debating going with a full synthetic or a synthetic blend. I suppose it depends on how much I end up paying for this speeding ticket I'm going to court for. :( It was entrapment I tell you. lol

Cory