theft prevention

My recently purchased '66 Mustang looks extremely stealable, and the door locks would be a joke for even an incompetent thief, so I'm considering theft-prevention measures. My plan is to use The Club on the steering wheel and to install a hidden ignition cutoff switch. Any other suggestions?

Reply to
rw
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rw opined in news:bPYxd.6628$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Forget the Club!

Install a real anti-theft system with a hidden aux battery

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

What is a "real" anti-theft system? I'm not interested in an alarm system (other people's false alarms drive me nuts), and I don't want to spend a fortune.

My guess is that my worst risk for thievery is joyriders, who would be deterred by simple measures. I don't think the value of this car is enough to tempt professional thieves.

Reply to
rw

Mr Bean had a real good one to deter joy riders....take off the steering wheel. There's bound to be some quick disconnect kit...nascar style or a Grant system I recall from years ago. Jeep owners probably have some good leads. It comes down to a matter of how far you want to go.

Then there's always the dummy coil-to-distributor wire...or you take the rotor out. (as seen in The Dirty Dozen)

DP Pics of the cars:

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Reply to
Dinsdale

I was thinking of just wiring a toggle switch into the 12v circuit between the ignition lock and the starter solenoid, and placing it in an inconspicuous place under the dash.

It wouldn't fool a serious thief for long, but it might work for a joyrider.

Reply to
rw

If someone wants it, it will be gone.... You can make it harder but most of the stuff that makes it harder for them, makes it harder for you.

Motion detectors can be troublesome, most ignition bypass systems only slow down the serious ones.

There's always the Denver Boot (

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) or encasing the car in concrete (just joking....). The simplest deterent I can think of.... one that will withstand hot wiring and all but the closest motor scrutiny is to swap the coil wire with a spark plug wire...... that is to say unplug the coil wire and one plug wire and reverse the two leads in the cap. The thief will try several times to start the car and it will indeed sound like it wants to start.... but it wont. Sorry, this simple ploy will work with neither wasted spark nor COP systems.

Reply to
Jim Warman

Sorry... I think I accidentally dumped my response....he again...

First, locks only keep honest people honest. If they want it they got it. And I totally agree about alarms.. neighbors hate you every time a cat wants to sit on the warm hood, and hardly anyone does anything about an alarm except complain.

Forget the club. In under 30 seconds it will be defeated either by freezing the metal until brittle, or cutting the steering wheel, and easily and cheaply replaced item.

There is the Boot as mentioned. Pricey but effective.

LoJack is another possible, but pricey. Your car gets stolen it is tracked and cops are notified. By the way, some alarm systems have features for automatic phone or pager notice to you and (I think) auto notice to the cops. You'd have to check.

Pop off steering wheel.... some jurisdictions (I think my home state of CA for one) they are not street legal. As I recall, I saw this posted in the Jegs and/or Summit catalogs. If the steering wheel is gone, and if the thief can get a wrench or pair of vice grips onto the post, they could still steer enough to get away from the place where it was parked.

Here are some more ideas to ponder....

My grandfather used an electrical cutout to the starter with a hidden button you had to push while turning the key. As I recall, the circuit is wired in ahead of the coil.

NOTE: An auto electric shop would be a good source for this kind of thing and probably quite reasonably priced.

A fuel cut off. No gogo juice... no theft.

Remove the rotor as mentioned. I would suggest either hood locks or an inside hood release (not obvious). Even if they had a rotor, if they can't get to the distributor, they can't replace it.

Deterrents work for both cars and homes....

Prominently displayed decals stating the car is alarmed even when it isn't. The corner of the window right by the door lock is a good place. If they use a shim they'll see it and no thief really wants to set off an alarm. Just might be that one neighborhood where some ol' geezer will check out an alarm.

Acid etch license number, vin number, or whatever, in all glass, again where it would be easily seen. Glass is a very expensive fix. A thief doesn't want to invest money in a stolen car, they want to steal and get money from it. Joy riders are a different breed.

Go to Radio Shack and purchase: -a flashing red LED -one 9 volt battery -one 9 volt battery connector -some wire as needed. Solder the rig together. Install in the dash area (even in the ash tray of your 66) where the flashing LED can be seen by someone walking by. When you park your car, attach the battery to the battery connector so the LED begins flashing. Lock your car. When you return, pop the connector off. All this should run about $5. The battery's last a long time and are cheap to replace. The LED's last nearly forever.

Make a habit of using whatever system or combination of systems you use EVERY time you park and leave your car so you don't forget to set it.

Insurance.... I suggest collector car insurance if you can meet the minimum requirements of the company (some require the car to be garaged). Such insurance is based upon an agreed valued. For example, lets say it would cost you $25,000 to replace the car. Normal insurance will only pay Book Value.... which on a 1966 is next to nothing. Even your multi thousand dollar stereo system may have a limit of only $250 or $500 if that's all that gets ripped off. So the difference between the two types of insurance may be the difference between Say a $1500 reimbursement, and a $25,000 reimbursement. Most of the collector car insurance companies do not have a mileage restriction, so it's not like you are only covered if you are going to a car show, etc. Collector car insurance can be very reasonable. I know people paying in the neighborhood of $65 per month. For that, I might be tempted to have both if I know there is no restriction about it.

Other alternatives....(just for funs) remove the wheels when you park remove the battery when you park hire a very big and heavily armed guard buy a viscous guard dog and let it sleep >D>

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

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Fuel, ignition and starter cut off. Only one of four theft deterrent systems approved by the Insurance Bureau of Canada.

Brad

Reply to
Brad and Mia

I *hate* that saying. If someone is truly honest, a little thing like the absence of a deterrent won't suddenly turn them into a thief.

A lock might keep an *opportunist* honest though... :)

Reply to
Garth Almgren

I hate slobbery, viscous dogs. I'd rather get a mean one. :-)

Seriously, Spike, you had some great suggestions. I especially like the fake alarm decal and the flashing red LED. Those are devious. Anyone know where I can get some fake decals?

I'm still buying The Club, though. This will be my daughter's car on her Dec. 26 birthday, and The Club will make a nice Christmas gift (in addition to the front disc brakes and the three-point safety harnesses, which are hard to put under the tree after they're installed).

I find it kind of odd that on the one hand I totally disapprove of spoiling my daughter with this car, while on the other hand I'm wildly excited about it because I remember how much cool cars meant to me when I was her age. I had a '64 MGB and then a '64 Porsche 356 SC Coupe, followed by a succession of motorcycles and beaters during my long starving-student era. When I drive this Mustang around the neighborhood I frequently get thumbs-up signs and hollers from teenage boys, so I can imagine what my daughter is in for. :-)

Reply to
rw

Hi

I bought a Crimestopper 2015 ($175-brand new) off ebay. It has ignition cutoff and a two way pager. I can keep the alarm silent and it has paged me up to 3/4 mile away while I was in a Home Depot.

It's been in my '89 for almost 4 years. Up until a couple of months ago it was in the driveway all night. Around the corner my neighbors '84 GT 350 was stolen from his driveway (couple of years ago).

The '87 is now in the driveway and it has a Crimestopper too.

Hank Phoenix (now #2 car theft capital in the country) '89 ASC/McLaren '87 ASC/McLaren '85 GT

Reply to
Hank

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Reply to
Spike

My ideas are from a variety of sources. The radio Shack idea came from a member of one of the car clubs I belong to. The one who told us is an old time MOPAR collector (12 Chevelle SSs and GTOs while his wife collects Nash Neapolitans of all things- she has 5).

Actually, if you have real leather interior, the slobbery helps keep the leather supple, although it does tend to get a bit sticky...; ) kinda like Armour All.

You can create your own decals using a inkjet printer and a good decal program. I use Sure Thing Decal Maker. I originally bought a decal kit made for model cars in order to duplicate my 65 FB. It comes with built in decals but you are limited to what is built in. However, by following the included link, I upgraded the included program for about $6.95. It allows the user to design and scale their own decals.

Another option is to design it using your computer and a program like word, and as I recall, if you have a Kinko's around, they can convert it to decal from a floppy disc. No idea what they would charge though. In order to make it realistic... look at some cars in a lot and that should give you an idea how the design should look and what font(s) to use.

Please, if you are determined to buy the Club, make sure your daughter is aware that it is only a deterrent. Using it does not mean the car can't be stolen. She should use every possible precaution, including parking it well lit areas, etc. The more obstacles/deterrents placed in the path of a thief, the less likely they will take it. Nothing is guaranteed, but one does what one can.

Also, I believe that there are two kinds of the Club. One connects to the steering wheel and prevents the wheel from being turned beyond a certain point. The other locks up both the steering wheel and the pedal (brake I think). I'd go with the latter. It's a bit longer and if she catches some idiot in the act, she can severely chastise the would be thief... LOL

Merry Christmas and a Happy Hangover... errr.... New Year!!!

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

I agree about FORGET THE CLUB! A thief can have that problem out of the way in under 30 seconds, either by freezing the metal/lock until brittle, or by cutting through the steering wheel which is a cheap replacement item.

The pop off steering wheel kits are good if state law does not prohibit. I think California is one of those where it's illegal. But, if the thief can get to the actual column rod and hook on a wrench or vice grip they can still steer long enough to get the car away.

There is a "club" (the boot) on the market for the wheels. Essentially the same thing the cops use. Pricey though.

I agree about alarms. Neighbors hate them, and few people pay attention to them. Still, a thief does not want to draw attention while in the process of stealing a car. Sooooo.....

Go to Radio Shack. get a 9volt battery, some wire, a 9 volt battery connector cap, a flashing LED. All for about 5 bucks. A little soldering and when you park the car, pop the connector onto the battery and let the LED flash intermittently all night long. An 8 volt should last a really long time (6 months or more?) and they are cheap. Place in the dash ash tray of your 66 or otherwise install in such a way that a thief walking by sees the flashing LED and thinks you have a complete alarm system.

Next.... decals indicating your car is protected by alarm, reward, recovery agency... it's another deterrent. (Works for homes too.) Right by the inside door lock so it's obvious to anyone opening the door... before they try.

Acid etch your vin number/license number or whatever, in all the window glass. That is a very expensive replacement. Most thieves don't want to invest funds in order to unload... they want to unload fast and get paid. (Of course, if it goes to a chop shop, they won't care much.)

Electrical cutoff is a good idea. My grandfather had a hidden button wired into his old 52 Buick which activated the starter, rather than the key. Fuel cutoff is another possibility.

Either hood locks or inside hood release is an additional possibility. and can be used in conjunction with previously mentioned. If they can't hot wire from inside, and they can't get under the hood.... oh, well. Same with the rotor idea. Remove the rotor and with the hood locked, even if they knew what the problem was, it really slows them down... and thieves hate slow... It offers more chance of being caught.

As I recall, the cutout should be wired in ahead of the coil. You'd need to check that out.

A good local auto electric shop could probably help you out pretty reasonably if you are not sure about what you are doing.

Naturally, NEVER leave the car unlocked, even if you're just running inside McDucks to grab a burger. They may be fast, but a thief can be faster. If you install a lock out for the electrical, make sure it becomes a habit to use it EVERY time you park. Not just when you think there might be a risk.

Finally, not matter how many precautions you take, locks etc only keep honest people honest. If they want your car bad enough, they'll get it. Therefore... I would advise making sure your insurance is for an agreed value. Normal insurance will only pay Blue Book values. Just like having your umpteen thousand dollar stereo ripped off, the insurance probably has a max amount (ie $500) they will pay. Insurance (generally "collector car" insurance) sets the total and mutually agreed replacement value of the car and if stolen, that's what you would get. It's the difference between say $1500 and $25,000 or whatever. You do have to meet certain requirements which you must check with the individual carrier. Most have unlimited mileage so you are not restricted to only going to car shows, etc.

Just some ideas to c>D>

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

Spike, Since when are 12 Chevelle SSs and GTOs MOPARs??? Those are GM name plates...

Reply to
351CJ

There is absolutely no accounting for taste. Five (5!) Nash Metropolitans puts one at the far tailing edge of the bell curve, but I admire that.

Reply to
rw

This is one of the better ways to do it. But, think about WHAT you will do when the pager goes off. You might want to be prepared someway. Also, you have to be somewhat closeby to get a signal.

Remove NO-SPAM from email address when replying

Reply to
Rein

I'm a Ford guy... All I know is that they were calling them MOPARs cause they had huge engines and such. I recognized the things like the

442 badges, and that k>Spike, Since when are 12 Chevelle SSs and GTOs MOPARs??? Those are GM name >plates...

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

Well so ya Know, I am a "Ford Guy" too, But I wouldn't be caught dead miss-identifying any 60's or 70's hot rods...

Pontiac, Oldsmobile, and Chevy (along with others, like Cadillac, not really Hot Rods) are GM's. Plymouth, Chrysler and Dodge are MOPAR.

neighborhood

Reply to
351CJ

Can I pick out makes and a fair number of models from that era, yes. Do I necessarily need to be able to define a difference in models I have little or no interest in... I don't think it's necessary. After all, in the 50s I drove a Ford Crown Victoria, a VW bug straight from the factory in Germany, a Morris Minor, and Honda M/C. My first real car was a 65 FB. Since then it's been Mustangs (74 and 72) with an 71 MG Midget. and a 91 Firebird GTA thrown in. I'm now back to a 65 FB and an 87 Escort for a beater. I don't see a lot of experience there with MOPAR or even GM.

However, I actually do appreciate your having pointed out the difference. At least now when members are talking GM, MOPAR or whatever, I will recognize the difference.

As l>Well so ya Know, I am a "Ford Guy" too, But I wouldn't be caught dead

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Reply to
Spike

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