Upper control arm question

I'm not to familiar with the older mustangs, but with the Fox bodied ones there are a few places not recommended for other than stock bushings. For example the rear upper control arms, where they connect to the rear end. Firmer bushings like polyurethane can cause binding and hurt handling. I'm running a full Kenny Brown suspension and have stock bushing here as well.

I would second that opinion on the Harder bushings. They are not for every loaction.

The only rubber is the O ring that hold the grease in the upper bushings. The bushings are essentially big nuts that screw onto the upper arm shafts. They are screwed on evenly both front and back and "interference" or friction fit into the holes of the control arms. The bushings are supposed to move on the shaft with the control arms. One problem that can occur when you replace them is often the old arms are in poor shape and the bushing won't jam onto the arm. This will allow the bushing to move or even unscrew which is bad. In the past when these were just used cars the fix was to do a quick tack weld to connect the bushing to the arm. Not really the best way to go as it usually burned the o rings and you'd lose the grease. New arms are available now so there isn't really a reason to go that route if your old ones are snotted. The other thing you need to install the bushings is a piece of metal to stop the A arm from being squeezed together as you tighten them. If you keep tightening then eventually the arm will not move freely and when you put the car down off the jack it won't go down as the A arms won't pivot. Ford had a special tool which was really just an overglorified piece of steel. HTH StuK

The only rubber is the O ring that hold the grease in the upper bushings. The bushings are essentially big nuts that screw onto the upper arm shafts. They are screwed on evenly both front and back and "interference" or friction fit into the holes of the control arms. The bushings are supposed to move on the shaft with the control arms. One problem that can occur when you replace them is often the old arms are in poor shape and the bushing won't jam onto the arm. This will allow the bushing to move or even unscrew which is bad. In the past when these were just used cars the fix was to do a quick tack weld to connect the bushing to the arm. Not really the best way to go as it usually burned the o rings and you'd lose the grease. New arms are available now so there isn't really a reason to go that route if your old ones are snotted. The other thing you need to install the bushings is a piece of metal to stop the A arm from being squeezed together as you tighten them. If you keep tightening then eventually the arm will not move freely and when you put the car down off the jack it won't go down as the A arms won't pivot. Ford had a special tool which was really just an overglorified piece of steel. HTH StuK

It's very possible you have non-Mustang control arms. There are Ford arms from other carlines that have the same geometry with solid rubber bushings instead of the metal bushings and o-rings. This swap was common as a solution to squeaking upper bushings. I believe they were from the Maverick-Comet in the later seventies.

If it was it had to be '77 only. My '75 squeaked every so often, and I've seen the grease fittings added to a '76. I would guess the later granada/monarchs.

The only rubber is the O ring that hold the grease in the upper bushings. The bushings are essentially big nuts that screw onto the upper arm shafts. They are screwed on evenly both front and back and "interference" or friction fit into the holes of the control arms. The bushings are supposed to move on the shaft with the control arms. One problem that can occur when you replace them is often the old arms are in poor shape and the bushing won?t jam onto the arm. This will allow the bushing to move or even unscrew which is bad. In the past when these were just used cars the fix was to do a quick tack weld to connect the bushing to the arm. Not really the best way to go as it usually burned the o rings and you?d lose the grease. New arms are available now so there isn?t really a reason to go that route if your old ones are snotted. The other thing you need to install the bushings is a piece of metal to stop the A arm from being squeezed together as you tighten them. If you keep tightening then eventually the arm will not move freely and when you put the car down off the jack it won?t go down as the A arms won?t pivot. Ford had a special tool which was really just an overglorified piece of steel. HTH StuK

 > I called the company I purchased the kit from, and they have assured  > me that no rubber is necessary here. Pulling the upper control arms is  > a big job, however, and I am skeptical, not wanting to do this again  > in the near future.  >  > Does anyone have any advice or clarification for me?  >  > Thanks in advance.  >  > -Ken

Funny I don't remember giving any permission to post this, and I certainly didn't "request" it. However what I posted still stands...

Seems I can get my posts sent by proxy. Maybe I should be sending a bill to someone? StuK

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Hi, Please accept our apologies for this post. Although we allow our users to request cross-posting of relevant posts to newsgroups, we posted this message due to a system error.

If you have any questions, please contact me directly.

Again, accept my sincere apologies.

Regards,

steve AutoForumz

to someone? StuK

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>

Looks like RAMFM has been targeted by yet another Webside wackoff.

CobraJet

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Money mends all wounds... where do I send the invoice? StuK

Stu, Again, sorry for the system error (since fixed). No harm, no foul, I hope (as they say in Laker land).

steve