What's wrong with my pony ??

Had two different problems cause similar reaction in my TransAM. The first turned out to be the catalytic converters went which messed with a sensor.

The sec>So, the ole' nag has started dying for NO REASON ! which is real

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

do a self test ya retard

h u r c a s t

Does it only happen in a turn? Does it only happen on a rigth turn? Does it happen when your fuel level is below 1/4 tank?

Guess why I am asking LOL.

If anyone has a clue, I would be very happy to have a direction for looking for a cause.

JC

91 5.0

when this happens and you crank it, and while it still wont start, do you see the tach registering?

I suggest you start it in the driveway and do a "tug test" to see if there's a bad harness connection. Be firm but gentle

No.. so far it's happened 4 times.. always going STRAIGHT.

I think the "tug test" has merit. but I've done some tugging with no obvious culprits so far.

if it would JUST FAIL and stay failed, I could troubleshoot it! ! but just about the time I start to look, it starts right up ! ! !

That's what she said.

suspect ignition module

h u r c a s t

I've had both a bad ignition module & faulty fuel pump give me those very same indications

"ironrod" wrote in news:DuQte.998564$w62.482369 @bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

Which is why one should pay attention to the tach when a car wont start... to put it plain and simple... if the tach needle is laying on the peg as you crank, there's no signal to the coil.

Needle should bounce as you turn ign on, then again as you crank.

no bounce on ign on, means bad coil or no power to it

maybe the crank pos sensor

No argument here.

I second ignition module on the side of the distributer. You will need a specal thin wall socket available at most Napa type stores.

One other quick test. Once it stalls while still rolling jiggle the key without taking it out of the run positon. Outside chance its an igintion switch.

Hooked

Yeah, I considered the ignition switch... especially since it's kinda sloppy, BUT

when it dies the radio, and other electric accessories are still on. Also when you TRY to start it it WON'T (usually) for a short time...

I'm leaning towards the ign mod or crank sensor, but I hate to replace things on guesses! I've been driving the HECK out of it lately and it's benn running PERFECT.

it MIGHT have something to do with the 100+ days. it's been cool-ish the last couple days.

*shrug*

well, you're both wrong because... the 94 and 95 gt's don't have the ignition module sitting ON the distributor anymore ! It's located under the airfilter box and is likely okay.

My guess is it is the hall effect sensor. It will get worse quick up tot the point where the car will only run for 30 seconds and die.

Yeah, I was wondering about that... I didn't SEE any module on the side of the distributor :)

Funny thing is since I changed the fuel filter, it died TWICE soon after, but then has been running PERFECT. I've been driving it all over, and no dieing, or starting problems in the last few weeks...

I'm sure it's waiting till I'm nice and FARRRRR away from home befor it acts up again :)

Thanks for the suggestions.

If it happens during a turn the wiring harness could be getting snagged on the steering column and as you turn it pulls on the electrical connections. Had that problem on a Ford Saphire before. It only happened when you turned to the right.

It is only happening in a right turn or hard right curve.. but it is also only happening when the fuel tank drops below 1/2 (for hard curves) and 1/4 for true right turns when I dont come to a complete stop (like going around a corner from one street to another). If I come to a complete stop before making the turn, this doesn't happen.

When it does happen.. the car *chugs* like it is starved for fuel and is getting air in the line. If the tank is approx. 1/2 full, then coming out of the curve and re-entering a straight away at slow speed seems to allow time for the fuel to begin flowing through the line again and the car doesn't stall.

If the tank is under 1/4 full, then, invariably, the car will stall and I will have to try to manouveur it to the side of the road and re-start the car.

JC