Can someone please tell me which port is the low-side on a 1996 mustang? Assume i'm a complete idiot and have no idea how A/C works. (Which is half-true -- i'll let you decide which half) Is it the port closest to the firewall or the radiator?
Look... considering that you really MIGHT be, and that about half the garage techs who occasionally deal with a/c are, as well... so there's no shame in it:
MAYBE you should tell us what the problem is, before you go doing something that might be expensive to un-do.
And before you ask, yes I AM certified -with a REAL closed book test- and DO know A/C theory.
Haha... ok, the thing is i've got a can of 134 and a gauge (like they have bundled together at auto-mega-lo-mart), and the car is cool, but not cold like it used to be. Cars went to 134 in 1994, right? So i should just be able to add some charge to it (assuming the gauge says it needs it), and it'll get cold again, or so i'm hoping.
Now for the really stupid thing i've done (you knew there was one). The reason i've got a can of 134 is i have a chevy motor with a non-standard compressor, and i thought the guy i bought it from told me that it was fitted for 134, and it wasn't cooling, but "all it needs is a charge". So i put the guage/can/trigger on and charged it up into the "green" zone. Now the compressor (the thing on the pulley) makes a BAD racket, and the air isn't any cooler. Did i totally ruin the thing?
Any number of things could cause it to cool poorly. There could be:
a blockage in the system a bad A/C fan motor (or bad fan clutch) low refrigerant charge bad/broken flap in the heater box bad A/C compressor and I'm sure a lot of other things that I'm leaving out to be brief...
You could possibly have put the wrong refrigerant in. Though if you managed to get the hose connected, it means it's either native 134a or converted to 134a. You could also have mixed in an incompatible refrigerant oil (there are several kinds). Or you could have done nothing at all and it is just another symptom of a failing compressor.
Take it to someone who knows what they're doing before you get hurt. The A/C system's high side operates at very high pressure and it is quite possible to hurt yourself if you're not careful. At a minimum, buy one of the many relatively inexpensive books available on A/C system repair before you dive in or ask someone who's done this before to help you.
And if this is for a Chevy motor, then WHY are you posting it in the Mustang group?
If it had a quick-connect, not the schrader (tire valve) type, it should have been 134. The system is designed for that... but I'm wondering if that can didnt also have oil in it.
There are many reasons for loss of cooling efficiency, not just charge- loss
Evacuate the system Flush as much of the old oil out as you can with a flush kit Replace the receiver/drier Evacuate the system again and leave it under vacuum for a while to insure there are no leaks. Re-charge with correct refigerant type/amount and with correct refrigerant oil.
You may have already hosed the compressor if it's making noise. This could be an expensive lesson. Again, have someone who knows what they're doing help you or pay someone who knows what they're doing to do it for you.
: : Look... considering that you really MIGHT be, and that about half the : garage techs who occasionally deal with a/c are, as well... so there's no : shame in it: : : MAYBE you should tell us what the problem is, before you go doing something : that might be expensive to un-do. : : And before you ask, yes I AM certified -with a REAL closed book test- and : DO know A/C theory.
That's cause he used the braille method, don't let him fool ya ;¬D
: -- : Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price : you pay..DEAL with it!
Again.. not so krusty as you want people to think. Lots of puff and bluster though.
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