working on an 89 vert

I would shy far away from a chip as your first mod.

Gears can be expensive ($600 installed while replacing all bearings, seals and clutches) but are definitely the best bang for the buck. I went from stock 2.73s in my 88GT vert to 3.73s. The difference is amazing! An electric fan is an excellent idea. You will no longer have a belt driven fan which means a little more power. It is also excellent 'insurance' for cooling the motor. I would recommend the ramchargers fan as the install looks straight forward and it is in my opinion the best value. You can wire up fans to a switch on the car (on when you choose, off when you choose) or to a thermal sensor that will kick on and off when your coolant reaches a certain temperature. Cold air intake is more for looks in my opinion. An underdrive pulley kit would gain a small amount of horse power. But remember your accessories will not longer be as efficient (alternator, waterpump). Many have experienced cooling or charging problems afterwards.

Andy

Thanks, Andy, you've given me some good information. I've already ordered the flex-a-lite black magic electric fan, so we'll see how that goes. I picked that fan since it seems pretty popular among mustang enthusiasts and is advertised as a direct fit for that model (rather than the generic ones that bolt on more universally).

From what you are saying, I wouldn't get much out of the pulley kit to offset the trade-off for accessory efficiency, huh? I do realize that was really pretty much the point of the pulley kit to start with, but does anyone have experience with a kit that hasn't left their services too much exhausted?

And what about those chips... Do I have to get a new one after such and such mods that will be programmed for the new mods, or do those things really 'learn' and adapt to future mods that you make after you get them?

Sorry to be slow on this stuff. I'm sure it's old hat for most of you on this newsgroup. I'm definitely a newbie as this is my first project car -- but, hey, you gotta start somewhere, right? I'm just glad i'm starting with a mustang.

afterwards.

I'll second that get the gears.

Congrats on aquiring the Mustang. Is yours 5sp or auto? As for the chip, I read over the years that it's better to do this later on into your mods, as it can be programmed to take advantage of the air/fuel curves, timing, and such better. A place where I live offers a custom tuned chip, along with a day's dyno session. In their internet ad they also give a price for reprogramming chips. Therefore it is apparent chips can be reprogrammed, but for cost-effectiveness you still might want to get some of your bigger mods done first, then the chip. After all, why pay for reprogramming if you don't have to? BTW, something else you absolutely must install if it doesn't have them already are subframe connectors. A convertible is much more prone to chassis flex, so you need to beef up your chassis to handle the power mods. Best wishes with your new toy!

Randy

We're living in a world that's been pulled over our eyes to blind us from the truth. Where are you, white rabbit?

Sorry to deliver bad news I have read very bad things about the black magic fans :( Visit

or (and search the newsgroup archives) and look up "Black magic fan". From what I have read myself they barely cool better than the stock fan/clutch setup and have caused people lots of problems (fires, broken blades etc)

The gain/loss from pulleys really varies from person to person. There is an alternator upgrade available to 87 - 93 mustang owners. A 2g to 3g alternator upgrade. You can PING Musttanguy and purchase a kit from him (this is where I got mine, great price and service). Upgrading your alternator will offset the pulley effect for the charging system. If you have sufficient cooling or live in a cold climate the cooling issues that come along with pulleys may not exist.

I would personally not bother with a chip unless I had some very serious engine work done (cam, heads, intake, etc). I have never really read specifics on how chips work but I have a decent understanding of how the EEC-IV computers in our 87-93s work. I wouldn't imagine the chip doing anything but modifying lookup tables. This could end up causing you to run rich from time to time or leaning out. You can advance the timing on your car which may net you similar effects to a chip and its free.

Everyone has to start somewhere. Go buy a Chiltons or Haynes manual. Also learn how to use google.com to look up old posts on this newsgroup. Websites such as

and are very valuable as well.

I purchased my first car (88 Mustang GT Convertible) 3 years ago when I was

1. This summer I swapped an engine into it myself. I've become terribly familiar with these cars and I love it! Just give yourself time, good luck.

Andy

Thanks, Randy. Those were pretty much my same feelings about the chip, too, but I wanted someone else's opinion.

Also thanks for the tip about the connectors. That's exactly the kind of input that I'm looking for! You're right, the vert does flex quite a bit. What manufacturer do you recommend for them?

Again, thanks.

I'm pleased to have been able to offer something helpful. I've gotten a lot of good advice on this message board myself, so you're doing well to post any questions here. While I cannot think of a specific brand of subframe to recommend, I will advise looking for some that contour along the floorpan, allowing more contact points. Also, do not have them bolted in. They must be welded to be work their best. There was a shop here where I live that specialized in Mustang suspensions many years ago. I got my subframes from them, and they were custom-bent to fit along my floorpan. This was about ten years ago, and they are still firmly attached. One more somewhat low-buck change you can make is switching your rubber bushings in the suspension to urethane. The ride will become firmer, if you don't mind that, but your components such as sway bars will do their jobs more effectively. I believe someone on here recommended a google search for advice on past topics. This is a good idea. Finally, it should be pointed out that your car is inherently heavier than a coupe or hatchback. Ironically, the verts weigh more from the added chassis stiffening they must ad to offset not having a top. Keep this in mind if you really get into adding go-fast goodies. Take care, have fun!

Randy

90 GT

We're living in a world that's been pulled over our eyes to blind us from the truth. Where are you, white rabbit?

Before you start throwing money at it, have you done the free stuff? Have you removed the air silencer? Bumped the timing up to 12-15 degress? Set the TPS to .999? Are you running synthetics? Have you gotten the car fully tuned up -- new plugs, wires, fuel filter, cap/rotor, changed out all the fluid w/synthetics? If you haven't, do these first. These changes can make a world of difference in performance and will make the car respond better when you add the bolt-ons.

If it's an automatic car, add a shift kit and trans cooler first.

Gears are a good choice. But check the factory sticker in the driver's door jam. If the axle code on the sticker says M your car has 2.73s, Z = 3.08s and E = 3.27s (in automatic cars only). If you have a Z or E axle code, a gear swap can be less of a priority.

Get U/D pullies

Get headers, x-pipe, and cat back

Get a larger M/A meter

Save your money on the cold-air kit and also don't get a chip. Removing the silencer and bumping your timing up will work better and won't lighten your wallet.

Patrick (been driving and racing a 5-liter car since '87) '93 Cobra '83 LTD

I have the Global West subframe connectors on my 88 vert, and they do make a serious difference in the way the car handles. I would recommend that you go to the Global West web site and see what their current offerings are. Another good place to look is the Maximum Motor Sports web site. I would also consider upgrading the brakes to 4 wheel disc brakes. I have the SSBC rear disk upgrade as well and that too makes a big difference in how the car feels. Personally I would put the chassis and brakes at the top of my list of things to do and work around to the engine mods after I had the rest of the car up to spec.

I tried the electric fan upgrade on a 79 Chrysler many years ago, absolute waste of money as far as I was concerned. They sure as hell didn't keep the car cool, I wound up re-installing the stock fan after a few months.

Very good point, I read an article in 5.0 Mustang where they coaxed another

12 hp out of a near stock engine just by tuning it up and playing with the timing and fuel pressure settings. I wound up applying most of what they learned to my car. New distributor cap and Ford Motorsport wires, timing set to 12 degrees, (this number varies according to each car.) Using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator I dropped the pressure about 2 pounds from the stock settings, and set the throttle position sensor as close 1 volt as I could get it. It might be a better idea to point our friend to the "How To" book that tells about all these tuning secrets. Assuming there is one.