350z Burnng oil

Hi All, I have recently purchased an 06 Z roadster Track. The car has about 9500km on it. At about 7500km it began consuming oil, it currently consumes about 500ml (half a ltr) per 1000km. Nissan is looking in to the issue but has any one seen this problem before?

Reply to
Z-Roadster-06
Loading thread data ...

Oil burning seems to be a common issue with the 3.5L Nissan VQ variants. Do some googling on the G35, 350Z, 5.5 Gen and 6th Gen Maximas.

Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

Reply to
Z-Roadster-06

Good luck with it. I haven't heard of wide-scale engine replacements for this problem - most manufacturers will consider some amount of oil burning normal, e.g. 1litre per 1500km. Hopefully you fall into the "unacceptable" category and get a new engine that doesn't exhibit these symptoms.

Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

I have a 2005 Altima SE-R that burns oil (1 quart every 1200 miles). The issue started around 12000 miles, and I've taken it back to the dealer so they can keep track of the problem. I now have 41000 miles and the problem still exists

Reply to
Eliot Rice

I have a Pathfinder with the 3.5L with 65,000+ miles on it. Mine is a

2001. This was the year of inception of this motor into this vehicle as I understand it. Would this make mine a generation 1?

It consumes no oil whatsoever. Should I thank my lucky stars or count my blessings that it's not a newer 3.5?

I've really come to love this engine. I don't think I could accept anything less in the way of performance if I'd trade. Can somebody point me in the right direction? Between work and trips to the Mayo clinic 4 hours away, I don't have much research time on my hands. (I'm not sick, it's my wife)

TIA, TFM® (not wanting to trade right now, just wanting 3.5 VQD (at least I

*think* it's VQD)info)
Reply to
TFM®

I've got a similar vintage PF with 112000 miles on it. Doesn't burn any oil, though the real main seal may be going.

Reply to
Chuck Tribolet

You are fooling yourself if you think your engine doesn't burn oil. All engines consume some oil. The ones that don't appear to consume any oil are replacing the burned oil with blow-by products (water, unburned hydrocarbons, soot, etc.). We had an old tractor that actully "made" oil - at least until you worked it really hard. The compression rings were really weak and let lots of stuff by into the crankcase. When you got it good and hot, a lot of the "stuff" would evaporate and suddenly it appeared that you had suddenly burned lots of oil. However, since we usually just used it to pull a small grader blade, it usually didn't get very hot, and the oil level would actually go up as you were using it. I can't imagine that the "stuff" in the crankcase was a good lubricant after a few months of use, but the tractor was old, and it continued to do the job.

Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

Hi all,

I own a 2003 Pathfinder and at 40K Km it started burning oil (1liter for

500KM) and Nissan replace the engine with a short block. It still consumed oil after about i liter for 1200Km and at 75K Km Nissan just replaced the short block again. I hope this is the good one. After contacting Nissan Canada directly not trough the dealership the ball started to roll my way.

Bob

Reply to
Robert Trepanier

I think some of this could be due to how the engine was broken in, what "procedure" did you use? Not blaming you, just want to educate you so your second/third etc don't use oil too!

Reply to
Steve T

Mebbe you could educate us all?

We've all heard a multitude of theories from many people and at least in my experience they vary *widely*.

I'm inclined to believe my Uncle's method of warming the engine up by driving gently until operating temp is reached, then take it out on the highway and bring it to redline just momentarily. Then reduce speed and rpm's for a few miles and repeat.

He claims this seats the rings and valves better.

I'm inclined to disbelieve (and ridicule) those who have said to start a new engine and let it idle for hours on end to break it in.

-- TFM®

DISCLAIMER: If you find a posting or message from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive, please ignore it. If you don't know how to ignore a posting, complain to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate... ;-)

Reply to
TFM®

I am a firm believer in: warm a new engine up, then give it several 3/4 throttle, 3/4 redline passes. After this drive it for the first 500 miles varying the speed (no low RPM lugging) and don't allow it to "cruise" at a steady speed. At this point change the oil and enjoy your correctly broken in engine.

What happens if you don't do this is the rings aren't pressed against the cylinder walls by the gas pressure (and decel vac) and never seat. Then blow by past the top rings starts, which carbons up the oil control ring and you have an engine that uses oil. There is NO reason to "Be easy" on a modern plain bearing engine because there are no bearings that require "breaking in" and the camshaft surfaces are worn in before it reaches operating temp. The pistons rings are what need breaking in and being easy on it is the WORST thing you can do! It probably is best to dump the first load of oil even sooner than 500 miles but I'd never recommend waiting longer than that.

Reply to
Steve T

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.