91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual IAC question-

I have some driveability issues and wanted to know what symptoms a bad/ failing idle air control valve would have- First- upon first cranking and until the engine reaches normal operating temperature the idle is around 2500-3000 rpm Then when at idle afterwards the idle oscillates from about 800-1300 rpm When taking off from standing the car has symptoms like it is starved for fuel - shudder, lack of power, etc. - if you let off the throttle then apply more gently all the power is back and drives normally. Things that have been checked: fuel pressure- both at idle and at throttle- checked while driving- is within specs (I forget the exact PSI) when acting up the fuel pressure INCREASES slightly, like the injectors are not opening? EGR valve and EGR control have been checked and ruled out. The EGR I know can cause similar symptoms but doesn't seem to be the culprit. All vacuum/intake hoses/etc have been checked for vacuum leaks- all small lines were replaced. The MAF is working and the ground was checked to make sure it was getting grounded properly

At highway cruising speeds (50-70mph) the car is smooth with good power and acceleration. At lower speeds when you press quickly on the throttle you will get bucking and hesitation like you are in the wrong gear or are running out of fuel. Also when running the AC all symptoms are magnified somewhat- especially starting from standing- the car will almost die...

I had an injector go out completely and I replaced it but can injectors fail intermittently? that would explain my problem but it doesn't seem really likely? Thanks for any advice on what to check!

-rw

Reply to
robbie
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I just had the exact same symptoms on a 1997 Sentra. turned out to be a bad distributor stalk (or whatever the real name is).

Did plugs. Did wires. Did cap and innards. All worked fine for a few hundred miles then it started again until finally, I got stuck with no spark on the side of the road.

Felt like a timing belt blew, but there was plenty of compression.

Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022

01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:
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Reply to
Joe AutoDrill

CLIP

My problems only existed when the car was warm *until* it completely died... Then even re-starting when cold wasnot possible,but it died under full load driving (highway at 75 MPH both times) and when warmed both times.

Did you replace it all the way into the engine or just the top end? When I say the "disributor stalk" I'm not sure what exactly is included, but I envision them replacing mine all the way down to whatever gear inside the engine spun the mechanism that is the dstributor and timing, etc. not just the top end. Unfortunately, I had a mechanic do it so I don't know exactly what parts are involved but I do know it was a multi-hour job, not just spare parts.

For you, I hope it is just a small fix, but do not disregard the distributor issue if you didn'tdo a 100% top to bottom pull and replace either. Which for all I know, you actually did do.

Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022

01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:
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Reply to
Joe AutoDrill

...Exact same symptoms of my distributor "stalk" failure...

Had to pull and replace the entire thing from inside the engine to the wires. All done from the outside, but a serious little effort anyhow.

I hope your fix is easier to implement.

Reply to
Joe AutoDrill

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