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Re: Glowing Red Exhaust Manifold on '95 2.4L Nissan Pickup...........

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>>I've never seen an iron manifold glow red under ANY circimstances! My >>best gues is your converter is clogged to the max. The ticking sound is >>probably an exhaust leak that you only hear when the back pressure is >>near max. >> >>I did have this problem on my Honda. I got some strange noises like >>ticking when the converter choked up and it popped the joint between the >>head pipe and the converter. >> >>I'm guessing you're also down on power too. >> >>-Pete >> >> > >Hi, > >I'm going to try and get back on the truck this afternoon or tomorrow. >Yes, the truck is way down on rpms when the ticking is heard. When >first started or when no clicking noise is heard the truck will rev to >6000 or so then only to 3000 or so when the clicking/red exhaust >appears. I'm going to check to see if the distributor is advancing >first then maybe check the convertor for color change as well. When >the chain was replaced, the crank key was straight up per the Haynes >manual(not the best), the cam sprocket pip mark parallel to the cam >cover mount(3 o'clock position facing the engine) and the oil pump >indexed so the distributor rotor was pointing to #1 cylinder. The >engine was not moved when the old chain was removed so the cam/crank >mechanical timing should have been close. I originally hoped this was >the problem but the ticking was there before and after the chain >replacement so I need to look somewhere else, like the exhaust system >itself. The chain was replaced because of broken chain guides. The >truck did have a broken off O2 sensor that was replaced with an O2 >sensor the owner provided. I believe when he drove it over it would >barely get up the inclined driveway I have so it probably had the red >exhaust then but it could not be seen in the daylight. It did have the >ticking noise which sounds like a collapsed lifter on #3 or #4 >cylinder and it would barely idle. The exhaust is looking like the >culprit. Thanks for the info, no one.

Well, finally started up the truck again. I checked the timing with a timing light and it does advance 10 degrees or so when the engine is revved up. With the engine idling, the timing appears to be at least

10 degrees BTDC. The exhaust only gets red when the engine is revved up and not just idling. The exhaust is a little rich smelling but does not have a sulphur smell, just like a rich running carburetor. When the exhaust glows red, it seems to start at the #4 cylinder and the small air pipes at the exhaust manifold below the O2 sensor. The exhaust cools down within a minute or two after returning to idle. The downpipe does not turn red after 2 or so inches from the exhaust manifold nor does the convertor and exhaust still comes out the tailpipe. The ticking noise was there from the first cold startup. Maybe it is a stuck open/leaking injector? The ticking noise does sound like a collapsed hydraulic lifter, though. What about the cam/crank not being in mechanical time?? Cam advanced? Does anyone have a factory manual with pictures that show the cam/crank sprocket alignment and the crank damper timing marks? I'm going to pull the spark plugs and make sure #3 & #4 cylinders are firing and not dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. Thank, no one.
Reply to
no one
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What are the specs? Many newer cars have 20-30 deg at idle. Have you tried advancing it and see if it stops glowing?

Reply to
Steve T

The distributor is almost at max advance as it is due to the concerns of it possibly being way retarded. I believe the specs are 4 BTDC but the truck will not rev up at that setting. Max advance unfortunately does not aleviate the glowing exhaust. I need to find out what the notches on the crank pulley represent as far as what notch is TDC. The Haynes manual does not specifically identify the marks for the '95

2.4L so the cam/crank timing may be way off not the distributor since the distributor is timed to the oil pump. Thanks, no one.
Reply to
no one

You've got the distributor or the camshaft way out of time.

Reply to
Steve T

Do you know if anyone has a factory manual for a '95 2.4L engine that has a picture of the cam/crank sprocket alignment. Haynes does not specifically show the '95 year engine. A picture of the crank pulley with the timing marks would be helpful as well. The distributor only goes in one way as it is splined with the crank/oil pump. Thanks, no one.

Reply to
no one

You might want to try the local Nissan dealer, they might let you take a look at their book.

Reply to
clevere

And if someone has ever had the pump out of the car, this could have been installed wrong.

Reply to
Steve T

In order to remove the timing chain cover, you have to remove the oil pump. The oil pump shaft goes up through the cover and is splined to the crank by a large brass sleeve then to the distributor mount. The distributor can go in only one way but the oil pump could be out of mechanical time except you install the oil pump then install the distributor checking to see that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug terminal. If it is not, you remove the oil pump and move it a tooth or two as needed. It all goes back to the distributor, oil pump and crank being in time with each other but the cam is retarded in timing to them all. I guess it's time to get a real manual and dump the Haynes. Thanks, no one.

Reply to
no one

If the oil pump was off by one tooth then the rotor would not point to the number one spark plug terminal because the distributor is driven by the oil pump drive. The oil pump drive has a flat spot and the end of the oil pump drive looks like a "D" so if the distributor is in time the oil pump is too. If the oil pump is moved back a tooth then the distributor would be out of time. I'm thinking it's probably an excessive fuel problem which requires so much advance to keep the plugs lit. Whenever that ticking noise goes away, the truck runs fine so I don't think it's a cam timing problem. The compression is higher now than with the old chain but it still has the ticking noise/glowing exhaust. Nothing has changed except for the higher compression. Still ticks, still glows red when revved up. It had a broken off O2 sensor that was replaced along with the nut that screws into the exhausrt manifold. Could be the wrong O2 sensor for the engine. I didn't purchase it but I did install it. Thanks for your ideas, no one.

Reply to
no one

Please don't talk to me like I'm a DUMB ASS! I;ve rebuilt hundreds if not thousands of these engines. If you have the distributor at the end of it's slot to get the timing figure you posted (and to get the truck to run even decent) you've got it or the cam out of time. PERIOD.

You are totally clueless... Good luck since you refuse to even deal with the OBVIOUS problem. Too much fuel will NOT cause the problems you are having (nor will advancing the timing cover up a rich condition in ANY way whatsoever, it will make it worse..) and will NOT make a manifold glow red, but since you seem to know so much.... Like I said good luck..

Reply to
Steve T

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