Shake on braking

2000 PF SE, 35K miles. Although I've had a 35K check up and was told that my brakes were in good shape, the following happened during a 1K trip. Truck handled and tracked fine with no shaking or shimmy while doing 70-85mph. However, when braking slightly at these speeds, I did notice a front end shake. At speeds less than 60-65mph, shake either not there or very, very much less noticeable. Comments please. Thanks, Flycaster
Reply to
Adam
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Mildly warped rotors

Reply to
Jim

I was sort of thinking that the shake had something to do with the rotors. What would you recommend? If it is work on the rotors, can I wait to do it and would you know about how much it should cost? Thanks.

Reply to
Adam

My last set of rotors were still thick enough that I could get them turned. That was on my Dodge Dakota whichis notorious for having thin rotors which warp easily. I took them off myself and took them to Pep Boys who did it for $8 each. Took care of the problem.

Glenn

Reply to
Glenn Woodell

For a DIY'er, you can try turning them. If it doesn't last you're only out a few $$ that turning them costs.

If you're paying someone else to do the work, I'd recomend replacing them. We've had poor luck turning rotors on foreign cars and them not rewarping in a very short period of time. We won't do it anymore unless the customer agrees it is being done at their risk with no warranty whatsoever as far as rewarping. I'd wait till it's noticable but not too long as it does beat up the front end parts.

Reply to
Steve T

This firm says no such thing as warped rotors!.

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Suggest you remove the sliding pins, coat well with PBC and refit. Then go out and use them hard a few times to complete the bedding in properly and abrade the transferred pad from the rotor.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

I do know it's not the "warp" you can measure with a dial indicator that causes the brakes to shake, it's the thickness variation and overheated rotors will end up with that.

I do have to question what this website says. I've installed -brand new- rotors that shook the first time the brakes were applied. Measured them and found less than .001" warp but about the same thickness variation. Had them turned, measured almost .004" warp after turning (their machine had a bent arbor?) but no thickness variation and the brakes were perfectly smooth. So all this stuff you read about people claming you need to dial indicate the rotors and move them around on the hubs to get the least you can etc is BS. Any small amount of warp (under .010") in a rotor is going to be taken up by the floating action of the brake caliper. It's the thickness variation that causes problems.

We do call it "wapred rotors" cause that's what people understand (and I don't have time to explain it to every person, most don't care!) but "warping" isn't what the problem really is.

Reply to
Steve T

But Nissan TSB's do go into stuff about using a dial gauge on new rotors. Considering what they have paid out on having rotors turned in situ under warranty I wonder what they would pay a consultant to tell them it's user induced by failure to bed the pads.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

Yea I used to think that too. After seeing rotors out .004" that brake perfectly smooth and others that shake uncontrollably with no measurable runout, I learned that "warp" isn't what makes them shake. Is obviously is something about how certain people drive, as someone that has this problem almost always has it reoccure.

Reply to
Steve T

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