As you can see I am a newbie and have done some searching but cannot locate a step by step. Therefore your contributions would be very helpful. Thanks
- posted
19 years ago
As you can see I am a newbie and have done some searching but cannot locate a step by step. Therefore your contributions would be very helpful. Thanks
I don't own that more but typically, yes. It will usually be stuck. It's OK to pry a little but don't bend it.
That should be it as long as there's nothing else in the way/
NO. Scrape any surfaces with a flat knife or razor. Don't scratch anything.
No. In some installations, you need a couple of minute drops of gasket sealer to hold the gasket in position while installing it. I like Permatex #2 for that. Only use a little bit if you need it. It only has to hold the gasket there for a few seconds. Some gaskets have built in nibs to hold everything in place.
A little tip for the original poster; you'll notice little washers under each nut that holds the valve cover down... make SURE you get all of these off before you lift the cover. I did mine a while ago, and took the ones that were loose off, but 3 or 4 of the ones that seemed to be stuck on popped off in the process of lifting or tilting the cover.
One fell into the valvetrain area, one went INTO a spark plug tube and actually landed on top of a spark plug, with the spark plug through the centre of the washer (tricky to get out!), and another one went missing. I spent the rest of the day and a few hours the next day trying to find that last washer, unsure if it had fallen into the timing chain area or not, until I finally found it over on top of the transmission!
Other than that, my cover came off fairly easily after a good bump on the corner with the heel of my hand.
Yes, it just lifts off. The original gasket is a big rubber band. There should be no sealant on it if it is still the original gasket.
You also want to replace the rubber washers under the 11 nuts that hold it down. I might not seal if you re-use the old ones.
Do not sand anything. But all surfaces should be clean and dry. You might have to scrape off a little sealant around the cam shaft plugs in the front.
You put a bead of sealer in the groove on the rounded part of the cam seals (two half round rubber plugs that go in the front) and out from the edges of them about a third of an inch. Nowhere else.
There is a recommended tightening sequence for the 11 nuts when you put it back. It is as follows:
They should be torqued to 69-95 INCH pounds (8-11 Nm). Do not overtorque or it will warp and leak.
The sequence is a good point. Tighten then gradually. bring them up to "not loose" all around, tighten a bit all around, then a bit more. If you can't find a torque wrench it's not critical but you need to make them "tight but not overtight". The idea is that they hold to seal the gasket firmly enough to prevent leaks but not so tight you flatten the gasket.
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