02 maxima muffler replacement

This is a common problem with Maximas, my 03 exhaust did the same thing a week ago at 62k miles. A design fault.

Asked about it in this newsgroup and at maxima.org.

Three solutions:

1) Replace muffler $300 and up. I was quoted $424

2) Reweld muffler pipe to flange where it has separated. I could not find anyone who would do the welding

3) Cut the flanges off both the muffler pipe and the pipe it joins to, then put on a sleeve and two clamps. Image of fix attached. Cost me $130 at Midas. Others at maxima.org had the same repair done for $75 - $100

Al Moodie.

This is a common problem with Maximas, my 03 exhaust did the same thing a week ago at 62k miles. A design fault.

Asked about it in this newsgroup and at maxima.org.

Three solutions:

1) Replace muffler $300 and up. I was quoted $424

2) Reweld muffler pipe to flange where it has separated. I could not find anyone who would do the welding

3) Cut the flanges off both the muffler pipe and the pipe it joins to, then put on a sleeve and two clamps. Image of fix attached. Cost me $130 at Midas. Others at maxima.org had the same repair done for $75 - $100

Al Moodie.

Thanks Al for your input. I took it to couple of other places to see if they can weld it, but concensus is to change the muffler.

I took it to the dealer too, he is quoting me $550 + tax - what a surprise!!!

Looks like the main price difference is using OEM Vs. after market muffler. I called couple of Nissan dealers and Im getting quotes around $399-$450 for an OEM muffler. Based on other postings her looks like the durability is good for an OEM muffler as its made of Stainless steel. Whereas an aft muffler is made of Aluminized Steel which I an get one at my local Autozone for $130 or Napa has one for $157.

Can anyone provide some real life experiences with aft muffler. And any particular once to stay away or are best fit.

thank you very much for all your help,

-B

snipped-for-privacy@vt.edu:

snipped-for-privacy@vt.edu wrote:

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My experts at Meinecke told me to weld up replacement pipe segments, and to keep the old muffler until it rusts through and makes noise. Then replace it with a stock type muffler, and that, they said, should last the practical life of the car. Unless you have to have a st. steel system for aesthetic purposes, and pay extra for that, stay with a stock set up and benefit from the lower cost. I would check the system pipe support brackets. If the design is the same as on the '97 Max those components may rust away and need replacement.

Ralph Hertle

What year is the Max; 03?? I just replaced my 03, which has 160K this week. Most shops don't seem to be interested in trying to patch these things up. They just want to sell you a new one.

The price seems to be about the same as what I paid. DW

Most aft mkt mufflers should come with a life time warrantee. If not, don't buy it. If you use a reputable shop, you should be fine with the aftermarket job. (I just did my 03 this week). Good Luck DW

Serious question here - how can a Stainless Steel muffer/exhaust system ever rust or corrode out? It should be good not only for the life of the car, but for several hundred years more.

DW mine is an 02 maxima...I tried several places but as you said no one is willing to weld it...as I need to get this done I finally got it done at Monro muffler. Hope this will work out.

My first impression is that the new aft market muffler is less noisy then the OEM one both in city and on highways...I like it this way...also Im planning to order Magnaflow muffler tips, but to get back the OEM look ;)

thanks for all your advice,

-B

Well the problem is not the SS muffler, its in perfect shape, but the main problem with 5ht gen maximas is at the flange. The flange is not SS, so it rusts and separates. I couldnt get anyone around her to weld it back in place. Hence had to get it replaced with an aft market one.

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My '97 Max doesn't have a stainless steel muffler/exhaust system. The piping is steel and the muffler is aluminized steel.

You are right in that stainless steels do last a long time. Dissimilar metals, however, could cause corrosion of the stainless or plain steel due to the electromotive series.

One anti-corrosion technique that is used on boats to prevent submerged metals from corroding is to attach a zinc metal block to the metal parts, for example, to the outboard engine. The zinc corrodes and the boat metals that are electrically connected to the zinc and that are immersed in the same water [electrolyte] do not. Zinc attached to the exhaust system may prevent rust. The zinc blocks that are available at your marine accessory store may need to be replaced from time to time.

Attaching zinc blocks to the steel body may help prevent rust long after the thin zinc plating on the sheet steel has corroded away exposing the steel body panels to rust. That might be good for local areas subject to abrasion, water and salt.

On the replacement system that I have, I opted for a larger diameter Warpspeed brand single pipe system of plain steel. They say that, given the mileage and condition of the car, the plain steel should last as long as the car.

Ralph Hertle

Thanks,,that makes sense - though it doesn't make any sense that Nissan didn't make the flange out of S Stl to,,,??

Welding to St Stl is very difficult to do - problem being you get "chrome depletion" at the joint, which makes it very brittle, and very corrosion prone.

Exactly right, and apparently its the support brackets, not the exhaust system components that are the problem.

Fortunately here in Phx Az, its not corrosion that's the problem, but all the rubber parts failing do to the dry heat.

You a welder now? They weld it all the time in our fab shop with no troubles at all. Read up before giving advice.

no just have a degree in chemistry and metallurgy - and built the space shuttle, and F16,,,but I guess your working in a body shop makes you the expert.

you can weld it all you want, but it might not hold up, and it might rust out, requires special equipment, and a knowledge of what type of St Slt you are welding (bet you don't know the different types do you,,?)

Your problems with my useful and accurate posts are - beside your being a news group troll?

Yes, of course you do. Just because you 'do' a lot of chemicals, doesn't kmake you a chemist. You can't even get what grade kind of gasoline to burn correct and THAT is in a manual. The closest you ever get to stainless steel may be in your razor blades. Then again, they way you talk, I doubt if you are old enough to shave.

LOL, you certainly are some sort of space cadet. I won't argue with that.

Another incorrect assumption by yourself. These are what make you look like the idiot you are.

You are SOOOOOOO full of shit. You think that all the welds in a nuke are faulty? What about a refinery? You DID know that there is a lot of 'SS' there, right? You did know that they are also capable of handling high pressure, didn't you?

Wouldn't you think a real welder would know these things? That's why they call them welders and not wannebee morons like they call you.

Again, you are WRONG. At least you are good at something.

I will let you know when/if I ever see one. Any posts of yours that are at all accurate are far and few between.

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