105K Maint & Rear Brake Question - 2000 SE

What should I expect to replace at 105K miles? Owners manaual says only the plugs? I would do these myself except getting to the back 3 cylinders looks like a mess!

While I'm at it how do you get the rear brake caliper cylinder to move back to replace the pads? It's not at all like the front ones you just compress back with a clamp. Do they screw back? Do I have to undo the bleed valve? I completely disconnected the parking brake mechanism and that made no difference. AutoZone gave me the wrong pads anyhow so it's back together for now.

Reply to
EdT
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As far as the rear calipers go, they screw back in, s-l-o-w-l-y, don't want to tear the boot up. I didn't undo the bleed valve. Parking brake cable needs to be disconnected to help get at/move the caliper.

EdT wrote:

Reply to
Mike

Thanks, I assume you screwed them back with a large pair of channel locks or big screwdriver in the slots? If its not too hard I can do that and save serious repair $$$. Might have to get the pads from Nissan though.

Reply to
EdT

Trans fluid is on the agenda to do, I want to do the version where the suck it all out so that it gets ALL the fluid changed not just that in the body of the transmission. Coolant is the red permanent kind, does that still need changing? No cooling problems noticed even in 100 degree weather in traffic. I'll look at the back plugs, looks like you have to remove a lot of the intake systems unless you get them from the bottom?

Reply to
EdT

Use a pair of long needle nosed pliers. They seem to work great when I did it on my 97 SE. One of the rear calipers was very hard to rotate so I rented a rear caliper tool (free) at a parts store and that gave me more leverage to rotate it in and out a few times to free it up.

Reply to
Roger

As others have already stated, the rear caliper pistons screw back into the caliper. You can either open the bleeder or uncap the master cylinder reservior - as you retract the piston the fluid has to either come out of the system (via the bleeder) or air has to be pushed out from the reservior to make room for the fluid. If you have ABS, I would recommend opening the bleeder, so that the dirty fluid is not pushed back up through the brake system.

If you don't open the bleeder or uncap the reservior before retracting the front or rear pistons, you are adding a lot of internal pressure on the brake lines/joints/master cylinder seals - and you can either spring a leak or dislodge a seal... not a good idea.

Cheers, Nirav

96 Max GLE, 106k
Reply to
Nirav J. Modi

Reply to
john smith

Reply to
john smith

The whole damn car is put together with 10mm bolts! that and a 14 mm and you could take the whole car apart! (damn near) as this post says, it's not as hard as it looks. Get a manual if you have not invested in one already, the shop manual is the best but a Haynes or a Chiltons is better than nothing. Good Luck,

2Maximas

Reply to
Bitsbucket

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