1991 MAX SE Crank Pulley Removal

I'm looking for some advice on how to remove the crankshaft pulley nut from my 1991 Maxima SE 5spd. I'm changing the timing belt and have come to the point of getting the crank pulley off and can't figure out how to keep the crank from turning. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind I'm doing this by myself so I don't have an assistant. I ordered a Timing Belt Kit from Courtesy Nissan so I plan to replace everything under there. My Max has 227K and I'm hoping to keep it going for at least another 100k or so.....

Thanks, Chris

Reply to
Chris Emerson
Loading thread data ...

Well, the only way that I know of to remove the crank pulley nut is with an impact wrench in which case the pulley won't spin so it isn't an issue (impact wrenches don't spin nuts off; they hammer them off). You can try removing it with a breaker bar and jamming something in the pulley to stop it from spinning, but I wouldn't advise it. First, I don't think that it will work (because I tried it once). Second, there is a strong possibilty of hurting something if it slips with that kind of pressure. Third, it makes a pretty easy job a complete pain in the butt.

Try to get an impact wrench. You'll be done in no time.

Another thing to think about since you have 227K miles on the car, have you ever replaced the front main seal? It might be something to think about if you have the crank pulley off. If you decided to do that though take special care not to score the inside of the race in which the seal sits or it will spend the rest of its life leaking. Best of luck.

Reply to
Hazey

I removed this nut using the "manual impact method".

Jack up the car at the wheel adjacent to the nut. Remove the wheel and plastic splash sheild giving you clear access to the nut.

Put a socket on the nut, add approximately 18" of straight extension to the socket, then add a ratchet or some other lever to the end.

Now get some bricks and build up a pile to support the socket extensions just inward of the ratchet. Now are now ready to loosen the nut.

Align the ratchet handle horizontally, then hit it sharply and hard with a piece of 2"x4". May require several attempts. The inertia of the engine components keeps them more or less stationary allowing you to loosen the nut.

This procedure may not work with lightweight socket extensions and ratchet. The equipment I used was 1/2" square drive. 3/8" may be too flexible allowing the socket assembly flex, damping the impact on the nut.

Nut can be put back the same way, just get it as tight as you can.

My 93 GXE has 175k and is due a new belt soon.

Al Moodie

Reply to
Al Moodie

Easiest is to use wheel bolt tools. If not available, engine may be locked if starter is taken out and flywheel teeth locked in place. See also 'Favorite Links' on top left page below.

I found that the belt roller spring load tightens the belt adequately; all that matters in the end is about half inch bend with 20lb push in mid belt. I drilled a hole above the roller locking bolt so I can loosen /tighten the bolt = retighten the belt easily - tight belt ensures maximum belt life.

Check the roller bearing condition, good to swap it at least once in 10 yrs...

Reply to
Wiikinki

I'm not sure if this can be done on a Max with front wheel drive because both front wheels would have to be on the ground.

Back in the 70's and 80's when the timing belts first came out and most of the cars still had rear wheel drive, all we ever needed to do was to put the transmission in gear (assumes a manual transmission), lock the parking brake and go after it with the wrench. If the clutch slips it won't work, but at least you'll know it also needs a clutch job.

Reply to
E Meyer

Hi Chris:

I did this with my 93 GXE, so I'm not sure if this overall operation is similar or not. But, I assume that removing the crankshaft bolt is. The problem is that the crankshaft moves when you pull down with your breaker bar etc, right?

I got around this by using a chain wrench. I put a peice of old belt around the crankshaft pulley, and then wrapped the chainwrench around that (to protect the pulley.) That gave me a place to oppose the pull from the crankshaft bolt turning with my breaker bar. This way it came off pretty easilly!

Matt

Reply to
mdg

I have removed the crankshaft pulley nut on a 93 Maxima GXE auto in this way. Front wheels do not have to be on the groung, indeed one of the wheels is removed for access.

An impact wrench does not require both wheels to be on the ground, and this is in essence a manual impact wrench. The crankshaft is prevented from rotating by its own inertia (its rotational mass).

Think of the old magician's trick of pulling the tablecloth from a table with cups, plates, etc on it. If you pull it slowly, the crockery just falls on the floor. If you pull it quicky you can remove the tablecloth without distrurbing the crockery. This trick works because of the inertia of the crockery.

Here endeth the physics lesson.

Al Moodie.

Reply to
Al Moodie

I meant the front wheels have to be in the ground to use the clutch/transmission to immobilize the crank. I agree with you that it doesn't matter if you use an inertia based technique (impact wrench or BFH). Sorry for the confusion.

Reply to
E Meyer

Just get someone to stand on the brakes..

Reply to
Steve T

Doesnt work if/when A/T or things like Chris Emerson said: "Keep in mind I'm doing this by myself so I don't have an assistant·"

- need a wife? My son was born next night after AMChornet brake pump job...

Matt: "I put a peice of old belt around the crankshaft pulley? and then wrapped the chainwrench around..."

- this is why all ppl do stare at my belt...

Reply to
Wiikinki

Thanks for everyone's responses, and actually I figured this out by luck or logic as I hadn't had any responses by the time I attempted this. Since it's a 5 speed, Steve T had the right solution in the end. I had no impact wrench, and no one to help me, so I put the car in gear and put a 2X4 between the brake pedal and the headrest. I was able to then get the 27mm crank pulley nut off with a little muscle.

Some things I experienced while doing this task. The crank gear was marked with a punch mark and a mark on the block. The front cam gear was marked with a red paint dot (possibly over a punch mark) and a little notch in the back timing cover plate. The back cam gear had absolutely no marks. What I dd was use a yellow gease pencil to mark everything, old belt and all gears. When I removed the old belt, I made sure the correct number of teeth (40 between the marks on the cams) were realigned using the marks on the new belt. Of course the old belt had stretched, so I had to ever so slightly rotate the cam gear a smidgen on the front to get the correct number of teeth to line up. And then back the other way a smidgen to get the teeth to line up on the crank gear. Of course this is the scariest part, because I was not confident I should move anything. Anyway, the short story is.... I put it back together and it started right up. The old girl runs a little better now (with the new belt & plugs) and now that I've done this once, I'll be ready for the next one when she approaches 300K.

And just for the record... Chiltons is almost useless. The only good information was the number of teeth between the marks, but I could have figured that out from the OEM belt.

Thanks again to everyone that responded....

Chris

Reply to
Chris Emerson

wrapped the chainwrench around..."

I guess I meant the grooved belt that came off the crankshaft pulley in the first place. :)

Reply to
mdg

...I guess I meant the grooved belt that came off the crankshaft pulley in the first place. :) (No wonder ppl stare my striped belt... I always thought it was my charisma. Oh boy, my last illusion down the drain.)

No, really, that is a good idea to use the original belt; will not slip.

Reply to
Wiikinki

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.