93 Maxima SE Problem

It's pretty unlikely that plugs or wires caused it to just stop running. Run bad, yes, not all, not likely.

Yes, I need to get a better idea of exactly what the symptoms are. The mechanic apparently did say that 2 plugs were bad and he needed a complete tune up.

Is there anything to the idea that just replacing the plugs, and nothing else, could cause problems?

dwhite

hard to say, did he mention replacing the coils also (Wires?) (on the 93 SE, each spark plug had a separate coil, 2 could be arcing or failing, that would make the car run really really rough). Coils would make it pretty expensive.

The US 93 Maxima SE didn't have conventional spark plug wires. (or distributor. Unless he never looked at it and was guessing, in that case I'd run the other way...)

The 93 Maxima GXE had 1 ignition coil, distributor, and conventional spark plug wires...

Gary K

uote]...Is there anything to the idea that just replacing the plugs, and nothing else, could cause problems? dwhite One Great idee would be to read, and write only after reading. In case u cannot scroll up, heres a copypaste:

"Nostart: Typical is a relay, connector problem.

- ECU cont relay, A/T gear selector sw, M/T clutch sw.

- Does fuel pump function (noise?), hose stiffen as ign is put on?

- Start by checking batt voltage.

- Listen to injectors click during startup: screwdriver on injector, ear on handle. If clicks, ECU & many sensros are ok.

- Disconnect MAF for tst purposes. Sometimes it 'hangs' ECU...

Check link page 5 below. Follow 'Favorite Links'. See also pages 10,14,15 etc..."

cannot scroll up, heres a copypaste:

Uhh, I don't understand why you are helpful on the one hand, and follow up with a smartass remark. It is a good idea for me to read before writing, and a better one for you to comprehend before responding. I asked an extremely simple, basic question -- whether simply "replacing plugs, and nothing else, could CAUSE problems." In other words, in case you still don't understand, if you hypothetically have a 93 Maxima SE in normal running condition (which this one isn't), can you simply replace the plugs without replacing or adjusting any other parts at the same time? You originally said to replace the plugs and swap them out periodically. The rest of your post is a list of potential problems. Fine. However, the mechanic apparently said you have to replace the wires and some other stuff at the same time or you could have problems. Maybe you didn't catch that the first time around. I wanted to confirm that what the mechanic said is BS. I still don't have that answer, but I gather it isn't a problem.

Thanks for your help, and unwind a little, please!

dwhite

... I still don't have that answer, but I gather it isn't a problem. Thanks for your help, and unwind a little, please! "whether simply "replacing plugs, and nothing else, could CAUSE problems."

- no. New plugs [except Bosch] never do any harm. If the current plugs are in the end ok, platinum type, dont change. [Bosch dont harm, most probably produce 'idle stutter']. Buy only NGK, althoug if u have problems, they dont answer, s!ht of a consumer service...]

"can you simply replace the plugs without replacing or adjusting any other parts at the same time? "

- yes

"You originally said to replace the plugs and swap them out periodically."

- yes. Std plugs each 5-10k, plats after 60k. Good site to peek:

; compare your plugs to the troubleshootin chart and 'read' your plugs, they 'tell' what is the current problem.

"...mechanic apparently said you have to replace the wires"

- Maxima has 15.000miles of wire. Cannot comprehend what he is goin to do...

"I wanted to confirm that what the mechanic said is BS."

- Possibly. VG30E engine has plug wires, one coil, one distributor with one cap, which may stop engine worse case. Your VE30DE doesnt, as each plug has its own coilpacks, six of them [they do not die all simultaneously]. So the question is, which wires he is goin after... See VGE ign wiring

Note: Once there, Read, clic "FavoriteLinks" and get all info for your vehicle. "...follow up with a smartass remark. "

- I do, most ppl get offended. You didnt, Good! The result was, now I did get a good answer... Note: My intention is to help, spend time on YOUR problem, and I dont get any money from this hobby... Btw. have received lots letters from ppl who got their vehicles running (say, after stealership robbery). This doesnt mean that I know all, nobody does - lots knowledgeable ppl on this forum.

Hopefully this clarifies the issue. If smtg was not comprehensible, pls tell.

Dan:

As others stated, spark plugs are not likely to be the cause of your problem. The car has six and never heard of all of them failing at the same time.

The 93se has one ignition coil for each sparkplug, hence no wires other than the thin ones that control each coil.

Replacing the spark plugs requieres the plug socket and extension to reach the spark plugs in the back 3 cylinders. You need to remove the

10mm screws to remove the coils (after disconnectin them). I would not waste my time doing this, to fix a stalling problem.

Follow Wiikinki's recommendations: He posts more likely causes for your problem.

I would be concerned with the quality of the fuel in the tank. 5 years is a long time. Even if you put new gas, what ever was left in the tank for 5 years could mean trouble, among other things, due to moisture and oxidation of the gas.

Good luck

Dan White wrote:

In answer to your question, it is easy and no problem to replace the spark plugs yourself. You will not damag the car by replacing solely the plugs. It just might not help. Even with two cylinders totally failed the car will still run. It will just run rough. The ECM will adjust the idle to compensate for the lost cylinders.

Since your car isn't woirking at all at this point, I would start with the fuel delivery system. I believe that AS below is quite correct that it is a clogged fuel system. To restart this car after five years you should have, drained and replaced all fluids including the gas in the tank, blown out the fuel rails to get all the crud out of there, and inspected the inside of the fuel tank for garbage to see if anything would be sucked into the system. For right now, pull your new fuel filter off and see if you can see any junk clogging it and try a new one to see if you can get the car going. (There is also a screen in the tank that could be clogged, but that shouldn't cause a total shut down of the car).

If you can get the car running, you should perform what the manual calls the "power balance test". Idle the car warm and disconnect each plug wire in turn, meaning remove then replace each wire as you go from cylinder to cylinder. When you remove the wire, the RPMs on the tach should drop for a moment then recover after a couple of seconds to their normal idle (that's the ECM adjusting for the dead cylinder). If the cylinder was already dead, then the idle won't change at all when you remove the plug wire. (just as a note, the wires to the coil packs on each cylinder should NEVER need to be replaced. I have over 210,000 miles on my '93 SE, and I have never had a problem with them. They are low voltage wires.). If you find dead cylinders, there are two reasons for cylinder death. It could either be the injector has ceased to function or the ignition coil has packed up. You will need to determine which before you try repair. The coils used to be about $130 a coil from the dealer, though I haven't priced them in years, and the injectors are a pain to replace. Injector replacement will require disassembly of a the intake manifold and removal of some other ancillary junk on top of the engine. If one were to go there, then one should replace all hoses at the same time as they are probably original and very old.

My guess is that your injectors are frozen from shellac from sitting all that time with fuel in them and that ignition will not repair the car, but it is only a guess. Best of luck, and these are great cars well worth getting running. All the best - H

get a good answer... Note: My intention is to help, spend time on YOUR problem, and I dont get any money from this hobby... Btw. have received lots letters from ppl who got their vehicles running (say, after stealership robbery). This doesnt mean that I know all, nobody does - lots knowledgeable ppl on this forum.

Thanks again, Wiikinki. I might take you up on your offer if I can't get things cleared up with the mechnic next week.

dwhite

Good info! I just hope it isn't a never ending list of problems as we fix each one.

thanks, dwhite

...I would start with the fuel delivery system. I believe that AS below is quite correct that it is a clogged fuel system.... My guess is that your injectors are frozen from shellac from sitting... Good point. This gasoline/tar separation may become problem after (six mths) long nonuse. Long start without ignition will definitely cause injector sprayed gas odor; nulling clog theory: test start ign coilpacks disconnected. However, I think its real bad luck if all six injectors clog/die simultaneously.

Note that during ignition phase, every engine rotation causes ECU to drive every injector to inject gas. After longer start period, plugs become wet: now this definitely will inhibit startup. Either plugs have to be taken out and individually dried, or long wait...

Easy DIY spark test is placing (grounding) a spare plug against engine block, coilpack connected, startup and watching gap for spark. (No need to take off originals)

Long nonuse also causes rubber parts to become brittle. This may cause about 'any' problem via rubber parts. Any car should be driven multiple times a year, just to keep it functional.