97 Max. Needs Work @ 150K

Hello All,

PRICE CHECK.....I have a 97 Max with 150K on the clock. Car doesn't owe me anything!!! I haven't put any serious cash into it outside of normal maintanence. The car runs great with very little and I mean little oil usage between changes. I just changed the oil and noticed that one of the CV joint boots split. There's still alot of grease in there so I assume it just happened. Anyways, I want to keep the car and am planning on taking it to have the axles done along with the front struts. Can anyone out there provide a ball park figure on this work? I plan on getting an estimate sometime this week or early next. I figure that the work will cost me less than a few car payments. This way I should be able to get another year or two out of the car.

Thanks, Paul

Reply to
paul.flansburg
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=== Don't know where you are but will make a guess it will cost around $700 parts and labor.

Reply to
Shines

Thanks for the reply Shines. I'm in the Boston area and I'm looking for some quality in the parts used. I assume that Monroe make's strut assemblies for my car so I'll most likely go with this. I'm looking to get out of the shop for under $1000 complete.

Reply to
paul.flansburg

=== Well as you already know everything in and around Boston is not going to be cheap to get fixed. But I am betting you will get out under 1K this with the quality parts. Let us know what it ends up costing you. I have a 98 Nissan Maxima bought it new and it has 12,565 miles on it as of today.

Reply to
Shines

If there's still grease on the joint then all you have to replace is the boot. Get the boot replaced asap at minimal cost, about $140.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

8 year old car with only 12,565 miles on the odo?

That's 1570 miles a year, or 4 miles a day.

Do you walk to work?

CD

Reply to
Codifus

Thought about doing that, but with the 150K on the clock and expecting to do another 100K I feel that the best thing to do is replace the axels. I know the struts are shot based on the way the front end responds to bumps and pot holes. The tie rods and ball joints are still tight and in good shape so no need to replace. Just looking for a ball park figure from someone who had it done. Since the wife will be driving the car, I'd like to make sure that the it's extremly safe.

-paul

Reply to
paul.flansburg

Can't argue about your wife's safety, but since the joint is still greasy, there really is no need to get it replaced. Also,as a test, with the windows open and driving through turns, do your hear any clicking sound? When the CV joints are beginning their decent into complete failure, it's quite gradual, and it starts with the clicking sound when you're driving in a turn. I hear clicking on other people's cars all the time. Just a matter of time I think to myself.

To top it off, I did this very thing in my wife's 98 Altima last year. car's still running great on the original axles.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

=== I had a 78 Cordoba bought it new put 65K on it and they were really problem filled miles. Had it hauled off to junk yard. Bought a Ford Bronco in 82 with the 5L v8 and that doomed Motercraft 2 bbl. carb. Got that carb replaced with a sweet holly. it had 45K and runs great. Oh also a 03 Sorento bought new has 5K. So I have to put a few miles on them all.

Reply to
Shines

No, no clicking, but just the same, I think I'm going to have them replaced. The only front end noise that I have is a poping sound. I think this is from the struts and will have them replaced. I have owned this car since new in 97. I have done all maintanence and have had no major failures. It's a great car and I would like a few more years out of it. This will give us enough time to save for another one.

Thanks......-paul

Reply to
paul.flansburg

you have a better chance of winning the lottery than finding a nicely remanned axle - well not quite, but you get my point. If you want a quality axle, you gotta go OEM Nissan or try

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Getting your local parts store specials will likely result in a lot of frustration on everybody's part.

I would recomend Tokico strut replacements - they are the OEM for Nissan and relatively inexpensive. With that many miles, I recommend you replace all 4 - parts cost for all 4 corners (front struts, rear shocks, bearings, boots) should be < $500. An independent shop may charge $200-300 for replacement on all 4 corners. That puts you at 800 bucks already... raxles are not cheap, but definitely cheaper than OEM nissan replacements... axle replacement will likley run a few hundred more. Bottom line, you might be able to stay under 1k, but I think for

1200 bucks or so, you'll definitely be able to get all new suspension and new quality axles put in.

For another 150k - thats a no brainer :)

Nirav

96 Max GLE, 139k
Reply to
njmodi

Thanks Nirav. Were on the same page, but it's alot easier to swallow when I have an idea up front what it's going to cost. Rear shocks and coil looks good so I'm going to hold off for now. I agree with the Tokico strut replacements, but will ask for a price on the Monroes also. Going with the axles and the struts I think I can have it done for about 1K, which I can live with.

-paul

Reply to
paul.flansburg

Sorry....Forgot to ask. Can I get pre-built/assembled struts for the Max.?

Reply to
paul.flansburg

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: l

Yes - the entire strut comes as a one-piece assembly. You don't have to take out your old insert and use a replacement. In addition to the strut assembly itself, I would suggest you replace the strut boot and strut bearing. If you really want to be trouble free, consider replacing the strut mount as well - not required though - and a good mechanic should be able to validate the condition of your existing mounts.

Cheers, Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

I am having both CV's replaced as we speak by a nissan dealer. It is estimated at $650. I readily accepted that but the water pump about made me cry. They estimated that in the $650 to $700 range. UUUGGGG. But I did find out in this group that there is a special antifreeze to be used in these puppies.

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Fred Wilson

absolutely,,,

never use anything but the Nissan antifreeze - yes its 15 a gallon, but its formulated to not corode all the various bi metallic parts of the system, and you really only need to change it every 3 or 5 years.

Reply to
common_ sense

$15 a gallon you just gotta be kidding. I think the Nissan service Dept. thugs sold you a barn door of a shafting. Any good quality anti-freeze will not corode the new cooling systems and they cost around $6 a gal.

Reply to
Shines

Which locally parts-store anti-freeze do you consider "good-quality", and do you think meets Nissans silicate-free formulation requirement?

I'm genuinely intersted to know since I plan on doing a radiator flush this weekend.

As an aside, with 30k intervals, 1 gallon of coolant (which is all that is needed, since you mix it 50/50) is 0.05 cents per mile... it's not

*really* that bad IMO. Consider 5 qts of Mobil 1, with a 15k change interval and the oil is still more expensive ;) over the life of the car...

Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

Dont you just love the morons on this group, that call you an idiot for spending 7 extra bucks to get the correct parts for a $30,000 car,,,,

I didnt think I needed to mention the need for silicate free coolant - something that the 6 dollar "green stuff" at your discount parts store are loaded with.

But then again Mr Shines wouldnt know a silicate from a fornocate.

Reply to
common_ sense

No need for name calling. Were all here to help each other. So, on my Max. I have just over 150K. The car is just about 10yrs old. I change the antifreeze every year and used the Prestone and I have yet to replace anything in the cooling system, outside of the thermostat, and have not had any issues. I'll continue to do this until I get rid of the car in about 2yrs.

-paul

Reply to
paul.flansburg

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