Alignment problems on 94 SE

Has any one every had alignment problems with a 94 or pre maxima? My 94 was bought used but since day 1 I have not been able to get it correctly aligned. It always pulls to the right. This is causing me to go through tires and breaks like you wouldn't believe. Sears and NTB have had a go at it and it was on my third attempt at Sears that they suggested the frame was bent because some portion of the front end that affects the alignment is welded to the frame and can't be adjusted. Any suggestions would be appreciated since it is costing me money on new tires and brakes every year. Thanks.

Reply to
MCDC Cozart
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I forgot to add that I replaced the rotors and pads on the front and moved the tires from the back to front but now I get a massive vibration at high speeds when I step on the brakes. Help please! Thanks.

Reply to
MCDC Cozart

If the vibration occurs when you step on the brake, that indicates that you have warped rotors. I went through two aftermarket "new" sets myself before I bought a factory set and got quality rotors with no vibration. If the car vibrates at differing speeds, that indicates a wheel balance problem.

Pull to one side can also be a braking issue. If the pull tends to even out when you hit the brakes, they you have a brake caliper/pad issue. If it doesn'y change when you brake, I'd suspect alignment.

For the alignment issues, find someone with a Hunter 811-plus alignment system that knows how to use it. Ask some questions when you call. I like NTB myself since I can go into the shop and speak directly to the guy doing the work, but it doesn't sound like you found a good mechanic. A bent frame should be discernable on a digital alignment machine like the Hunter.

However, if they still can't find it, you need to find a _good_ body shop with a quality frame machine. They can load up the car and tell you if the frame is off. Expect to pay for a couple of hours of labor for them to do that.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

High speed vibration when stepping on the breaks could be caused by different factors:

  1. Defective tires
  2. Defective brake system (rotors)
  3. Suspension component (tie rods)
  4. Insufficient toe-in or even toe-out (alignment)

Since you had your car aligned, they probably checked for suspension components and I would discard this factor.

Since you replaced rotors I would not think the problem is the brakes.

That leaves you with the tires (which I don't think is the problem) and the alignment problem.

From my experience, I got rid of the problem when the toe-in was brought back into specs. I had to do the alignment myself as I explained in a previous posting (the subject was 2000 or 02 Max alignment).

I can think of several causes for the car pulling:

  1. Bent frame.
  2. Serious suspension problem (bearings)
  3. Problem in the brake system.
  4. Incorrect caster angle: This is the most common and most influential cause and could be due to defective bushings in the lower control arm or strut assembly.
  5. Incorrect thrust angle: The effect would be as having your car with the steering of a forklift, rear tires in a different direction, trying to change the direction of the car (sort of)

Get a print-out from the guys at Sears and let us know what are the actual values for camber, caster, toe-in, for both the front and rear ends, as well as the thrust angle.

Remember: Camber is used to make tire wear even (inside and outside) Caster is used to make the steering return to the center position and to gain in vehicle steering stability. This is why it is the most influential in pulls. Toe in is to avoid strong steering vibration at high speeds and during braking. Toe is responsible for the "loose" feeling of the steering system. Thrust angle is controlled to make the track of the front and rear end be centered in line (so the car does not move sideways)

I had many problems with alignment shops. This is why I decided to do the alignment myself.

Good luck.

MCDC Cozart wrote:

Reply to
TM

Also, you might want to check and/or replace the front brake hoses. After several years of service, brake hoses can break down and cause the internal bore to "gum up" with crud, causing the uneven braking pressures and may also cause one brake to not release pressure when you let off the brake pedal. This will cause the brake to drag and subsequently overheat and warp your rotors. You can start by driving it around, hitting the brakes, then stop to see if one of the rotors is REALLY hot. If so, the brake hose can be the culprit. Also, check the caliper pistons to see if corosion and sludge also causes the piston to not retract properly. I've experienced this in a previous car, not a Maxima tho.

Chris

90 & 94 GXE's
Reply to
Chris H

Fine. Believe what you want. I saw the numbers on the dial gauge and I felt the vibration in the "first time out" test of not one, but two sets of aftermarket rotors. I also cured it with a set of Nissan factory rotors. There were no or other caliper problems. I won't buy another set of A/M rotors for a Max. They've worked out fine on my other vehicles, including two other Nissans. Not the Max.

That sure enough sounds like he got bad rotors. He did the brake work, the vibration started. It's always possible that it is something else, but simply moving the tires back to the rear will tell him that.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

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