can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

Hi all,

I have a 2004 Maxima SE. In the last few months I have heard a new (I think) sound coming from the right front wheel area of the car. It only happens when I go over small bumps, not large ones. It sounds like a reverberating noise....sort of like dropping some marbles on a table.

The car still handles as it should, I'm just wondering what the source of the noise night be.

Any ideas?

You most definitely have an issue with your electrical system as the odds of having so many batteries fail in such a short time are astronomical indeed. The dealer is clearly not interested in spending the time and effort necessary in order to diagnose and fix a pesky intermittent problem.

If it were me I wouldn't wait around for the next failure before I took action. I suggest getting the attention of a Nissan area rep and making her/him thoroughly familiar with the history of the problem. Same goes for the service manager. Then, when the next battery fails, and it most certainly will, you will be in a better position to have SOME kind of action taken. If at this point all you can get is another replacement battery it would be time to involve the Bureau of Automotive Repair, if there is such an entity in your state.

Intermittent problems can be extremely difficult to diagnose and sometimes the only thing to do is to take a shot gun approach and start swapping out parts that are likely to cause the problem. After being patient enough to allow the dealer to swap four batteries it is time to start playing hard ball. If you don't, they will be happy to swap out batteries and send you on your way (and out of their hair) until your warranty expires. I think it would quite reasonable to expect that your alternator and/or voltage regulator (perhaps they are one in the same) be replaced when the next battery goes.

Good Luck!

probable has a bad strut.

It is quite common on 04's

ok thnaks....any damage by not getting this fixed in a timely fashion? I've heard it for about 60 days, but wanted to wait until my next service appointment which is goign to happen next week.

Its not loose per se. Its my understanding that the capsule is designed spring mounted - probably to avoid shock. When I spoke to my tech at Nissan back in 2002 or 2003 when this was bugging me, he said that at that time there was a service bulletin for Frontiers but was not aware of any other models. So, there is precedent but not it was not particularly common.

Its frustrating having to chase these little things on a brand new car. If it continues, talk to the service department and express your concern

- just keep it professional and give them a chance to fix it.

you should be ok to drive it

Theres prob little or no chance of it busting off, right?

Lemme ask you a question while I have you here if you don't mind:

I brought my car in - 2004 Maxima SE (leased) - for it's 1yr/15,000 mile checkup. I have 13,500 miles. I didn't mention any of the prob;lems I'm having because they are minor, but they were also supposed to be checked on the "20 point inspection".

1) I have a slight rattling when I lightly accellerate (sometimes). I saw a TSB where this might be from the frunt tube by the catalytic converter -a brakcet of some kind.

2) I know I needed router cutting---I have some decent wheel shimmy when I brake from all speeds, magnified atr 55mph+.

3) I know I have this strut problem.

I didn't mention any of them because I knew I was paying the $325 to have the car inspected for these issues. No issues were found, and I feel like I payed $325 for an oil change and new wipers.

Would these problems be found on this 20-point inspection? Do I have an argument to make, or is it "my fault" for not mentioning the problems?

What is your driving pattern? Frequent short distance driving? Weekend driving? Listening to car audio with the engine off for long period of time? Battery normally last for about 2 years in my driving experience. I drove

60+ km to and from my working place everyday. But an undercharge battery may not last long the same. Of course there may still be a problem with other electrical system.

??? news: snipped-for-privacy@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com ???...

Hi all ---

i had a little bit of slipping lately (only going uphill, though, between either 1st and 2nd or 2nd and 3rd gears) so i was going to have a transmission fluid power flush done at a garage. i called around to check prices and two places told me they wouldn't do it because it was "not advised to have a flush done on a vehicle with that mileage". then i called the dealership and the service manager told me that they would do it, but they wouldn't recommend it.

i've got a 94 gxe at 180k. i've been running on a new transmission since about 90k. any opinions or advice from those here? any would be GREATLY appreciated.

Jack

Thank you for your kindness. We had asked for a test of the alternator after the fourth occurrance. We had the service advisor and the mechanic who always works on it in a group and we really complained. We even offered to take the car to another provider and pay for the bench test. If it came out bad they would pay under warranty. They refused.

We let it go on. This last failure occurred two weeks after the mfg. warranty expiration. The tow and the battery and labor were now covered under the battery warranty Do you think we are just wasting time if we ask for a Area Rep at this point?

We do not have an automotive bureau in our state. I feel that nissan, thru their dealership, was fairly put on notice during the warranty period that there is a undiagnosed problem with this vehicle. I've also heard that dealerships have access to funds for problem customers. Do you have any advice as to how to proceed? I will fight and file a written complaint wherever and to whoever, if it will help, but really don't know where to start, if I even stand a chance without the warranty, or if I should just accept it and put a new alternator in it at my expense.

Well I bought a new 89 Nissan Maxima se it was a fairly good auto.just problems with each and every power window regulators and a faulty power relay feeding the main system computer. I also bought a new 98 Maxima se and it's my feeling that the 98 and 99 year was the last year Nissan really had quality because of Nissan being taken over by the another large Company and their leader causing many changes with the Nissan parts supply chain. Just like what happened to Ford GM and Chrysler. Hold the suppliers hands to the fire for lower prices and you get poor quality also. About two years ago Nissan sent me a card telling me to bring my 98 in for a replacment alternator mine had never had a problem but I let them replace it. In 2003 I traded off the 89 Maxima for a Kia Sorento I had had enough of dealing with Nissan. I still feel my 98 is a quality Nissan but I won't be buying any new Nissan's. Myself I would find someone else to fix my Maxima and never deal with your Nissan service Dept. again.

The strut? No. The strut bearing? Yes.

How often have you been changing the tranny fluid since you got the new one?

My rebuilt is now about 80K miles old, and in perfect shape ('91 SE, same as your GXE). I do a drain and fill every 20K miles or so. Probably a little sooner than needed, but I want this to last for another 80-120K miles.

BTW, I did a tranny flush way back when, and within 2 days, my transmission was shot. Granted, the fluids probably hadn't been changed since the car was new (had '98K at the time), so it was likely a combination of neglect and then a stressful flush that finished it off.

Everything I've heard/read is that the flush isn't necessary. A drain and fill is just fine. If you do a drain and fill, make sure they tell you what they find on the drain plug. It's magnetized, and will hopefully collect any fine metal pieces that come off the transmission and keep them from damaging it. My plug is always clean, so I'm feeling good about it's longevity.

Bill G '91 SE Auto

178,690 miles

No chance.

It's unlikely you need the rotors turned with only 13,500 miles on them. A shimmy isn't indicative of bad rotors. Bad rotors would be more of a pulsating feel as you slow down. Sounds more like an alignment issue or tires that are out of round.

Bill G '91 SE Auto

178,690 miles

Oh, so the warranty has expired! Now we are talking about a horse of a different color!!!

I'm no swami, but here is my prediction for your future:

Sometime in the next couple months your battery will die and you will once again tow your car into the dealer.

Later that day you will get a call from the service manager who informs you that, after running a complete diagnostic on you electrical system, they discovered a faulty diode in your alternator that apparently kicked too much voltage into the charge system thereby overtaxing your voltage regulator which, in turn, caused the battery to receive a voltage spike which resulted in the shorting out of cell #3. The service manager then informs you that the cost of replacing the alternator and voltage regulator including parts and labor will be $873.56. Moreover, even though the battery is technically still under warranty, the warranty was voided by the over-voltage situation. Because he is a nice guy and you are a valuable customer he agrees to waive the labor and charge you $178.83 to cover the cost of the battery itself.

You then protest the charge and press to have the repair covered by warranty due to the fact that this is the 5th time such a battery failure has occurred during the past year.

The service manager explains that they ran the same diagnostics each of the previous times and the alternator and voltage regulator where fine.

You then claim that because the problem was intermittent, it is not surprising that they didn't discover it before.

Unimpressed by your impeccable logic the service manager then tries to put you on the defense by asking you if you have a tendency to rev the engine as this is the likely cause of such a diode failure.

Finally, after hearing you vent for a while he says, "Well, I don't normally do this, but since you have been through such a difficult time, I'll go ahead and throw in a free 115-point inspection".

Later that day you get a call from the service manager who says, "Your alternator and voltage regulator have been replaced, however the 115-point inspection revealed that your linkage is loose and your right-rear brake caliper is leaking. Also, I see that you are due for a radiator and brake fluid flush." . . .

. . . At this point my vision of your future starts to get blurry and all I can hear is the giant sucking sound of your savings account being drained. . .

********

Seriously, if you have the stomach to fight (and I hope that you do) I would suggest going over the service managers head and documenting your case with Nissan via an area rep before the next failure occurs. I think that you have a very strong case, but it is going to be an uphill struggle. Finally, remember the old adage that it is the squeaky wheel that gets the grease!

Good luck and keep us all posted as the saga unfolds!

I agree 100% that will happen. If they are smart and by now they should understand help is not to be had at that Nissan dealer and should find someone to get their Maxima fixed. When it came time to get a replacment for our old 89 Maxima we picked a Kia Sorento. I still have a very trusted

98 Maxima but feel after year 99 they Nissan have become just money grubbing company just like Ford GM and Chrysler in providing poor quality autos and trucks and poor and dishonest service at their the dealers.

miles.

transmission

i've neglected to ANY at all which is, i know, irresponsible on my part. at this point, though, would i be best served leaving it alone? i've read that mixing the old and new tranny fluid (as in a drain/refill) can cause problems.

the slipping only happens uphill, so what could that indicate? usually the situation is that as i'm going up the hill, i feel shaking and i pull off the gas. shaking stops until i put the gas back on. if i gun it, the shaking stops and the car runs like normal. what is going on? thanks for any help.

Jack

I checked it carefully several times on my 2003 max. I get 2.3 mpg less by switching to 89 octane. fortunately, in my area I can buy 91 octane gas which is a bit less than the standard 93 octane premium.