can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

'99 Maxima SE 3.0 Car fuel pump and sensors changed...coil changed...plugs changed...will crank but will not start...electricity not getting to injectors...any suggestions on what the problem can be...four mechanics...fail to diagnosis probem...

Reply to
wepworker2
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Are you sure really sure the battery is 100% My 98 once would crank but not start and I found it was the computer that was not getting enough power to tell the car it needed to start. Because it cranked I never thought it was a voltage drop at computer that was causing the problem. Just what happened to me.

Reply to
meltingsnow

It would help if you told us what it is...

Reply to
JimV

Reply to
john smith

Have you tried a mechanic at the dealer?

Reply to
PGG

I'm getting ready to do a full install on my wife's car. We have the standard non-BOSE radio that comes with the car. I want to remove the rear speakers but am not sure how. It looks like I have to remove the rear deck. I would appreciate any advice or instructions from someone who has doen this. Thanks in advance.

Reply to
traderfjp

The engine light is on in my 99' Nissan Maxima, however the engine sounds fine. I was suppossed to get it serviced a few months back but never got around to it. I have noticed a slight sound in the engine whenever it idols for to long, or wwhen the ac has been going. The sound is somewhat like what you would here if the radiator were bad or spewing out water. Agasin this is only every once and awhile. What could be the problem, and does anywone feel if it could be expensive?

Reply to
lano21

Reply to
Randall Phair

You will need to get the code(s) read.

There are about 80 different things that can turn the check engine light on, from something as simple as a loose gas cap or to the other extreme, a malfunctioning transmission.

Reply to
NissTech

My middle daughter's 95 Max has, according to my mech., an oil leak from an O ring between the block and the T chain housing.(?) It's a 19.2 hour job for a $3 part. Just wondering how common this is on Nissans/Infinitis and if there's a 'mechanic-in-a-can' oil additive worth trying?

I hate to have her be the Exxon Valdiz of North Texas but $1100 will buy a LOT of cheap oil.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I think he knows even if was only a weak battery of a simple fuse he would be looking at a $200 or $500 bill. This is why he is asking the forum for advice.

Reply to
meltingsnow

The time you were quoted sounds a bit heavy to me.

We charge 16.0 hours plus parts to do the job.

I can tell you that it is a VERY labor intensive job, it is not a job for your average technician or DIY'er.

oil additives don't usually work, and you are correct, 1100.00$ will buy a lot of oil. Eventually it will become bad enough that the engine will pump out all 4 quarts within a few hours at idle speed ( I have seen it happen).

Reply to
NissTech

open your owners manual, and read how to enable/disable the valet feature on your trunk latch assembly

Reply to
NissTech

thanx for replying.

sigh

Carl

NissTech wrote:

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Anybody done this? I need to change the U-joint at the steering rack input, and was wondering if there are any problems I need to be ready for. It looks like I disconnect the U-joint from inside the car.

Thanks

Jim

Reply to
Jim

" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I have only done this on a 97 Maxima w/ Bose. On mine I had to remove the rear seat and rear pillars, they both secure the deck. There used to be a free writeup on this procedure at carstereohelp.com but it is now removed.

Reply to
Dave Stone

What belts and how much do you think it will cost me?

Reply to
explorer

I wanted to do some fix up work near the latch of the trunk. If you are standing at the open trunk, right in front of you over the license plate holder, but not down in the cavity of the trunk, there is a horizontal "plastic" bar that acts as a hold down for the felt-like material of the trunk and also covers the latch. It is held in place by a series of Philips head screws which are screwed through a grommet into the body (I guess). When you use a Philips screw driver to try to remove them they just keep turning and turning with no result. I'm guessing they were initially screwed into a plastic retainer. Can anyone tell me how one gets these removed so one can work around the latch?

Reply to
Chuck

when turning them out , try not to exert any downward pressure on them . only enough to keep your screwdriver tip in them, once the center pops up enough, grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it the rest of the way out

Reply to
NissTech

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