Whenever I start my 2001 Maxima in the morning it has extreme hesitation for about 10 seconds and then seems to run normally. The service engine light also came on recently and it is P0171 (System Too Lean (Bank 1)). I tried putting in a bottle of fuel cleaner, but it doesn't seem to have helped. I live in Arizona and so it's not that the engine is just too cold or anything, so does anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be? Thanks, Dave
When's the last time you had your throttle body cleaned?
CD
Dealer can do it,,about $200 bucks,,,,
Its not something you want to fool around with yourself, you could damage the MAF.
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote:
You need to stick with being a chemical engineer. It is a very easy job to clean the throttle body. What you said is analogous to saying keep the doors closed so you don't get a ding.
You need to stop pretending to be a mechanic.
Screw up that filament in the MAF sensor, and you bought yourself a
500 part, and a tow trunk to the dealer.or do you even know how a MAF sensor is made, or works,,,????
No > wrote:
You can easily do it yourself. Remove the air filter, the air filter box and the tubing that goes to the engine. Once you've reached this cylindrical metal part with a butterfly valve in it, that's the throttle body. To verify, have someone push the accelerator pedal, you will see the butterfly valve move. The TB is probably black with all carbon deposits gunk from years of use. No biggie. Get some throttle body cleaner (NOT CARBEURATOR CLEANER) and spray and wipe profusely, clearing out all the gunk until you see shiny metal. If you really really want to do a good job of cleaning it, you can take apart the throttle body to clean the back end of it as well, but it isn't absolutely necessary.
When I did this on my 98 Maxima, and I only did the front part of the TB, my cold start idle jumped from 1200 rpms to 2000. Also, my lower rpms drivability was much improved. I did my TB cleaning after 140K miles of use which was a loooong time:)
CD
You need to stop pretending you know what you are talking about.
Yes, I do and have actually had some off. Just don't drop anything in the tube and there will be no problems. The filament isn't hanging out in open space. Maybe you are just exceptionally clumsy and have to worry about such things. Most wouldn't. Maybe you have an interest in a dealership or something. Your usual reply for most faults is to take it to the dealer. Can you check your own air pressure? Do you?
Have you noticed that every other reply has told the OP that it is no big deal?
And all you ever post is -
"No that's wrong - because I think its wrong"
No data, no facts, no anything,,just "you think its not so,,,"
Dude you lost all credibility on this group when you stated that its Ok to run a Maxima on Reg Gas, and if you blew the engine doing so that was OK to since it would be covered by the warrantee.
This is a 30K plus car,,its not your Daddies 67 Dodge Dart,,,,
Check all the post on this group,,,90 percent end up having to take the car to the dealer to get fixed,,,,thats a reality of modern cars,,,not some psycho personal opinion of yours.
and claiming your a "mechanic" justifies nothing - most post on this group are complaints about incompetent mechanics.
No > wrote:
Actually, I have never said that. You have.
Data? When you went on a rant about how regular gas was going to blow up any Maxima, did you notice how many people gave their personal experiences and showed you to be wrong?
That isn't what I said although it is probably what you heard. Again, did you pay attention to how many people posted their experiences that blew your theory out of the water? Do you pay attention to that or are you just trolling?
Have YOU ever had any credibility in this group? I haven't seen any and I don't see a bunch jumping in to say how correct you are about your thoughts. As I said, perhaps you showd stick to what you know.
I know exactly what it cost. I paid for it. My dad also never had any Dodge products.
Absolutly you have to take your car to a dealer for certain things. If you can't do some maintenance on your own, perhaps you should not drive. Anyone with an iota of common sense can clean their throttle body, for example. If you can't, that might say something.
That would bother me if I was incompetent. Are you a good chemical engineer? Can you prove it?
You never said if you are able to check your own air pressure or if you get the dealer to do it. Do you top fluids? It does involve opening the hood.
Your check engine code will be back - in 3 engine cycles or so.
Like I tried to tell "you know who" the psuedo mechanic. Glad you didnt make things worse by following his idiotic 'shade tree mechanic" advise.
Your problem is most likely not a dirty anything - its most likely the MAF, or a bad fuel injector.
Of course 'you know who" is going to tell you to spray more gum out on it,,LOL i am going to risk being flamed (god bless that ignore function,,LOL), and tell you you need to go to a Dealer.
i am in Az to,,use Midway, though less than impressed lately with them. Friend of mine goes to one in Peoria - has been very happy with them.
Would be glad to ask him and send you the info.
No its not going to be cheap - but you will get your car fixed, and fixed the first time. Sorry, hate me for the truth if you want, these are complex/expensive cars to fix.
Oh and BTW - i own a 2000 Maxima,,,what does "you know who own"....a
67 dodge dart,,??..LOLOf course he is going to call me an idiot for telling you the truth,,,
Hey so be it..LOL Gives me a chuckle everytime I think about it,,LOL
Hope you get your car fixed,,,
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote:
If it turns out that the MAF is bad and you are up to installing it yourself, look here to get one. If the dates on this one fit your cars production date, it's $109 at this site but the dealership will try to sell one for over $400.
try looking here,,,
right off hand the only thing I can think you could check would be coil resistance on the bank one injectors (they should all measure about the same) - unfortunately injector failures are generally mechanical. You might also be able to check the MAF output voltage, there might be some help with that on maxima org.
Before going first born and check book in hand to the evil dealer - run a put can of Chevron Techron in the gas and see if maybe that might unstick the injector. Personally I have never seen it work, but some folks swear by it, and it will not hurt anything. Stay away from any of the other "fuel injector cleaners". You might even have to get the Techron at a Chevron gas station.
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote:
Thats good input, but one word of caution.
Get the nissan service bulletin/proceedure first. Replacement of the MAF may also require an update to the ECU. I know this to be true for replacing the 02 sensors.
Chuck >If it turns out that the MAF is bad and you are up to installing it
replacement of sensor components is not always a matter of just installing a new sensor. Often there is a detailed procedure that must be followed, and the engine control unit ECU may well need to have an updated program installed.
the discussion group at maxima org has an entire 14 page thread on the MAF. I am not sure that the following link will get you directly there, but give it a try.. I just quickly skimmed it, seems about half say you need an ECU update, and half dont - it really depends on the MAF being installed, and the vechicle year, revison, previous service history and on and on. Somebody might have posted the Nissan service proceedure for replacing the MAF...
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote:
LOL, trying a cheap alternative isn't a bad thing. What if the $3 can of spray had done the trick?
No he isn't.
Actually it is a 2005 Maxima 4 seater, automatic.
Nope, I call you an idiot because of the way you act.
It probably doesn't make you laught nearly as much as what you say does.
Btw, I notice that you never bothered to post what great information YOU have posted in the group. I gave you your list of posts and half of them was your stupid comments on premuim fuel.
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