Prestone 5/150 coolant any good ? Says Dex-Cool certified but silicate free

If you do the 5/150 be sure to flush out the old coolant really well since it was a silicate formulation.

BuddyWh

Yes, I plan to flush it very well, I see that the 5/150 is orange, but I presume that color means nothing tho.. I see it says it is silicate and phosphate free, and that is what I need apparently.

Any> If you do the 5/150 be sure to flush out the old coolant really well

Ok, I just saw a warning about the dex and such, wanted to check around before doing so..

What do you th> >

Go with Texaco Dex-Cool ($6 at Wal-Mart). I recommend this over the Prestone version because Prestone DOESN'T DESERVE THE BUSINESS. They damn well knew for many years that silicates were destroying import pumps, but didn't care. Silicate stuff is expecially vicious to certain pumps like Hondas, it can kill a new pump in 6 weeks. Prestone didn't (and still doesn't) care. So long as you bought it! I HATE PRESTONE, as if you couldn't tell by now.

Now, pay attention: if you go with Dex-Cool instead of Nissan coolant (which is also an excellent choice), be absolutely sure that your coolant bottle is kept full at all times. Also, it is a good idea to pop off the radiator cap once in a while just to make sure the radiator is full, because sometimes it can get some air in there. The reason is, Dex-Cool will actually solidify if it is exposed to air and high (radiator) temperatures. It will destroy your radiator if this happens, and none too good for the engine either. So glance at the coolant level when you check your oil. You do check your oil, don't you? So many don't. . . . .

JM

I take off the lower radiator hose and put a hose fitting in a heater hose, then run water through till it comes out both radiator and block clear; reconnect the radiator hose and run engine till thermostat is open for 5 min's, then repeat. I do that with any flush so that I know all the old coolant is out before filling with fresh stuff.

I'd only use a flush if the first drain has rust or other contaminants in it, or there is an over-heating problem indicating the radiator has restricted tubes.

BuddyWh

Yes... but not the kind that I think a flush would necessarily help with. I think of a flush as helping with the mineral and other sediment deposits that clog radiator cores and cause overheating. They don't easily flush out with just plain water... they have to be broken up or loosend first.

The coolant you want to get out will come out with just plain water diluting it, and then flushing it.

If you want to give it a chemical flush then it probably can't hurt - just be sure to get one recommended for aluminum radiators. I'm just a little conservative about mixing all those chemicals in there if I don't have good reason to.

BuddyWh

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Great point, JM... I can't agree more... Radiator caps frequently plug or partially plug, allowing coolant out as it heats and expands but won't draw it back in as it cools. Looking at the full overflow jug you can easily think the radiator's full too. This has happened to me, twice!

BuddyWh

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ok I'll check out the options today and possibly go ahead and pick up some for my saturday work project :)

thx

Prestone makes a kit that includes the heater hose 'T' fitting to hook up a garden hose and flush the system.

IMPORTANT: do NOT connect the garden hose and turn on the water without removing radiator cap! your water main pressure may be up to

100 psi; your cooling system pressure operates below 17psi. The cap will try to relieve the pressure but the flow rate will probably be much higher than it can handle. Don't know what could happen: some burst hoses possibly.

The kit has instructions but their process doesn't get all the old coolant out. So I flush it three times, running the engine to open the thermostats in between each flush.

You'll have best luck if you park the car with front end pointing slighlty downhill, install the garden hose fitting to be the highest point on the engine and either open the radiator drain c*ck, or (better) remove the lower radiator hose to drain.

You only have to be this careful when converting to Dexcool compatible anti-freeze, and then only to be assured of 5/150 protection. Other AF anti-corrosion chemistries deplete over time so they have to be changed every 1-2 years making complete removal of old AF less important.

BuddyWh

I went by autozone this morning and saw the g-05 stuff, it said it was a "low silicate" formula.. From what I have read I don't want ANY silicate do I?

thx

AHHH decisions, decisions... they don't make it easy, do they :-))

Speaking for myself... anytime I've use a silicate AF I've had problems with leaking water pumps (Isuzu Trooper, Honda's, Toyota's). I've used Dexcool or compatibles since 98 or 99 (can't remember when, exactly) in Acura's, Mitsubishi and Rodeo with narry a drip.

And now, my Maxima too. Considering the location of the water pump in the Max I don't want to take any chances with it leaking into the timing chain gallery and engine oil.

I know my experience is just allegorical and hardly scientific, but that's pretty much the major advantage of Usenet anway. In the end, it is your choice of course.

If you're really concerned, you could consider changing on an annual cycle like you would with the others. You'll still get the advantage of great aluminum protection and no silicates.

BuddyWh

ahh the pain the pain :) decisions.... May end up just going a couple of dollars more and get the nissan stuff... I have till monday to think about it..

I know it would be the least worrysome and all that... But if one can find something better for less :)

Marc

I'm following up on that... more to be posted. If you want a sure thing, get Nissan coolant.

Bob

yea, I believe that's the route I'm gonna take... few dollars more but no worries...

thx

Hmmm. I just bought this kit at Walmart for cheap. Only problem with it is that the T-fiitings they inlcude (3) are all way too small! The upper and lower coolant hoses seem to be ~1 1/2" in diameter where the kit's largest t-fitting is only 3/4".

Anyone have a way around this. Otherwise I may have to do a few drain and fills which would be kind of a pain not to mention taking quite a bit of time (with cool down periods).

CW

IIRC, that fitting is expected to go in a *heater* hose, not a radiator hose.

See Buddy's technique. I used to even pull the thermostat in some cars, put the housing back on loosely, just run the garden hose (cold engine, heater on hot, don't start the engine) through for a few minutes. You can flush most of the old stuff out that way. Then put the new therm in, top it off, run it with plain water until hot. Cool, drain, refill.

Bob

The t-fitting goes into a heater hose line. A 1 1/2 inch hose sounds more like a radiator hose... DO NOT cut into one of those.

Even flushing through the fitting you should fill and drain three times. Maxima engines have two thermostats (at least my 2k1) so you have to run in between flushes to let the thermostats open and get all old coolant out.

Also... make sure the heater is set to HOT so you also flush through the heater core.

BuddyWh

Thanks bob and buddy for the heads up on the prestone kit. Glad I didn't do anything rash... heh heh.

CW