question about brakes and car pulling to the right...

You pretty much described a seized or near seized caliper. When servicing brakes, pay much attention to clean and relubricate the caliper pins. The must move freely to prevent eventual caliper seizures. Unfortunately, you might have passed this point now. If you can live with the pulling effect, drive the car check the thickness of the remaining material on the pads on both sides after a few months. Different thickness between both sides definitely indicates a seized caliper on one side, or a malfunctionning wheel brake at the rear. Yes, bad rear brakes will incurr more braking pressure on the front wheel`s same circuit, usually the diagonal wheel.

Hi

thanks for the reply. Well, I do know that the caliper pins have always been kept well greased and moved very easily..

Do you think that the LR one that froze damaged the RF one? The only caliper that has been replaced was the LR so far.

Should I presume that the RF one is not releasing all the way? Or what is the caliper doing exactly that is causing the pull, in your opinion?

Marc

I replaced a rear right frozen caliper a few weeks ago. A few months ago, when I changed the front pads, the front left pad was worn down to 3/32 in, while the right had 3/16 material left, twice as much. All caused by the right rear frozen caliper that was transferring braking fluid pressure to the other wheel on same circuit. I dont think a bad caliper will damage or have adverse effects on another caliper, but on other pads, yes as described here. I had not noticed any pull one one side when I was braking. Since I changed the rear caliper, the overall braking effect is much better though.

I think the front right caliper might not be releasing all the way. I am assuming here the rotors are fine.

Hi

Yes, rotors are both just a week or two old. Pads are very thick on all wheels, they were all changed about 3 months ago. Quietstop ceramic actually. The LR caliper was quite a surprise, as it went back within about a week or so..

I'm eyeing the RF myself, since it is so hard to push back in compared to the LF one. Both rears are very easy to turn back in, so the RF seems to be the odd duck here (I think).

Any further thoughts?

Marc

At this point, I`d change the RF caliper. You are lucky: the fronts are about half the cost of the rears. The rear calipers have the parking brake mechanism built in, making them so expensive, even after the core return.

Good luck! Daniel Greetings from Montreal

transferring

Unfortunately,

malfunctionning

thanks! I know that LR was like $72 for a remanuf.. ow..

Another possibility just came back to my mind. You could have an obstructed brake hose. That would prevent the fluid pressure from being releived when the brake pedal is relieved. It happens sometimes.

I suggest the following test. Using your c-clamp, retract the caliper piston, and try to feel how much pressure ior force you must apply on the piston with the c-clamp. Pump the fluid back in the caliper using the brake pedal, (be careful not to push the piston all the way out: put the caliper back on the pads to avoid that) and try to retract the piston back in the caliper again, but this time open the caliper bleeding screw first. If you feel there is much less force required on the c-clamp with the bleeding screw open, then I would suspect an obstructed brake hose.

The "pressure feeling" required on the clamp is rather subjective, I admit. This experiment might not be conclusive . I like to try to avoid spending money on parts not required. Garages usually dont go that far: they replace all the suspected parts and they bill you. They hope getting rid of the problem this way when they are not sure what the problem is exactly.

I owuld strongly suggest that yu check ALL of the pistons for full travel. So I would force the calipers back in 100% then have someone push on the brake pedal and see how well the pistons move - one at the time - !!

I have found that sometimes the rubber gaskets are broken and the piston rusts inside the cylinder. So at times it does NOT move in or out or is fixed. Unless you have some good rust remover (that does not eat rubber) like Kroil then you can try using it to "dissolve" or loosen the rust. Once the piston moves OK then you wont have other problems. Keep checking the pistons - especially after the winter/spring and make sure that it still works well.

The position of where the "rust" is ont he piston depends upon how much of the brake disks are worn. Some ge frozen in a position that allows some braking but does not alow the piston to go back into its zero position. That will cause uneven pad wear.