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Timing belt tension adjustment

I just changed the timing belt in my Maxima GXE 94, and thanks God it looks like I didn't screw up valve timing.

I'd like to share my concerns about timing belt tension adjustment. I did everything as per FSM and ended up with hex hole in 11-11:30 position. Which contradicts to the information I read on the Internet stating that for VG30 engines normal tensioner hex hole position would be 5-5:30.

Now here are my thoughts: a) It's said in the FSM to start adjustment from fully outward position. Which is in my understanding 8:00. Then turn 75-80 degrees clockwise. So it goes to 10:30. Then use feeler gauge etc. So as I said I ended up in 11-11:30 position.

b) 11:30 and 5:30 positions would make the same tension to the belt because the virtual line from 5:30 to 11:30 is parallel to the timing belt. So still nothing too wrong with 11:30 position.

c) What is the purpose of the spring in the tensioner? After the tensioner is secured by the bolt there is no way how the spring could affect the tension. So the only purpose I found could be to keep the belt on proper tension until the bolt is secured. But for this the tensioner should be at 5:30 not 11:30.

So is there a mistake in FSM or my argumentation has a flaw?

Car still runs decent after the t/b change but it looks like it doesn't have all the power after heating up. Gonna check CTS...

Ah, and another question. Why do we need to set TDC on the comression stroke before doing the job? What is wrong with exhaust stroke?

Thanks in advance, Max

Reply to
Maksym Moyseyenko
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If you use a nissan belt it's impossible to screw it up as it has marks on it.

To tension the belt before you lock it down. If you just wind up the spring to get the tensioner back and snug the nut, install the belt, unsnug the nut and let the spring do it's job then tighten the nut back up it's a done deal. If you had to work against the spring to adjust the belt, you were doing it wrong.

Exactly..

If you used an aftermarket belt with no marks, $20 says you have the rear cam advanced a tooth, you do realize the marks on the covers aren't quite right and the marks on the belt are? Seen this done dozens of times and kills the power the car is supposed to have. To fix it you get to take it all back apart!

Reply to
Steve T

Yes I used a Nissan OEM belt.

So it looks like Nissan FSM has a mistake?! As I pointed in a) I ended up in 11:30 position according to FSM. That means that spring would unwinds _from_ the belt no to the belt. Which just doesn't make sense.

I used Nissan OEM belt. I agree that by symptoms it looks like one of the cams is advanced a tooth. But when I installed the belt I didn't use marks at the rear upper cover - I simply don't have them. I just matched all the three marks on the belt with dots on the crank/camshaft sprockets while in TDC1. It should be enough. May be I have to check it... I hate to undo the whole thing!!!

Btw do you know why do we have to set TDC1 on the compression stroke? Why not on exhaust stroke? In both cases all the marks line up...

Reply to
Maksym Moyseyenko

If you're sure all the marks lined up with the marks on the pulleys, you're fine. Maybe the EFI engine temp sensor is wacky? You were in that area and if it is corroded, when you disturbed the wires to it you could affect how it works. Not fun to get to without a special tool. Also replace the subharness and the sensor if you do this.

The cam pulleys wouldn't, they'd be 180 deg out i.e. the dots pointing down.

And yes it sounds like a FSM is wrong if it instructs you to have the tensioner where the spring pulls the tensioner away from the belt.

Reply to
Steve T

I think you mean coolant temperature sensor. I don't think 90+ Maximas have EFI temp sensor.

Yes, looks like you are right. Thanks.

Reply to
Maksym Moyseyenko

The coolant temp sensor is up on top. All it does is send the info to your dash guages. Whether you have it plugged in or not will not affect the engine performance. Kinda like the oil pressure sending unit. It just measures something for the human eye to look at but doesn't affect/control anything.

Bill G '91 SE Auto

166K miles
Reply to
Bill G

Just checked in FSM. There are two sensors actually. Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS) sends signal to ECU in order to adjust engine working mode. Thermal sensor sends signal directly to the temperature gauge. The two sensors are completely independent.

Reply to
Maksym Moyseyenko

Whatever you want to call the sensor that the engine computer measures the engine temp. They change what they call this stuff from year to year, the parts guy will know what you're talking about. If you call it a "coolant temperature sensor" they'll sell you the one for the gauge on the dash, that's why I call it the EFI temp sensor.

Reply to
Steve T

Exactly. You call it ECU, I call it EFI, next year they'll call it ECI. It's like air flow meters, I get corrected and told it's a MAS. Whatever....

Tell you what, call the dealer and tell them you need an ECTS and I bet they won't have any idea what you're talking about! Tell them you need the temp senosr for the EFI and they'll go get you one.

Reply to
Steve T

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