Water pump on 1995 4th GEN when to replace replace? 120,000 miles

at what time do you think it would be appropriate to replace my 1995 water pump, have I been lucky so fare, or am I worrying for nothing?

if you have a 4th gen, at how many miles did yours go, or when did you replace it?

Reply to
Clayton Swikert
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pump is a pump pump is a pump pump is a pump pump is a pump ...it doesnt know where why when it rotates. It knows only the pain of masters whip...

Its bearings & seals will be shot say at one zillionth revolution if rpm is 3000 and temp constant. Maxima rpm's are typically low, and if youre not a racer, you may add 2x to what a small 4-cyl engine whines.

Last time I had pump failure was in the 70's, 2million miles since then, multiple vehicles with zillion other problems. Still, I would schedule a major overhaul (or car swap) at 200k miles, replace the pump along lots O-rings, bearings, alt &whatever, just to keep safe.

Dont worry, be happy. And prepared.

Edit: Instead of waterpump, I would ask smbdy to check chain & chain guide condition now.

Reply to
Wiikinki

Mine died at 95,000 miles, a bit early. Had the good graces to develop a slow leak, rather than a gusher.

This is NOT a roadside repair. It is a long, tedious pain in the butt. You are entering the prime-time failure zone. Replace it, if you expect to keep the car for a long time.

Reply to
jmattis

Reply to
me 2007

Actually, your GLE (so must be automatic), should be at ~2500RPM at

70mph (assuming you have overdrive enabled) if everything is working as intended.

As for the water-pump, I've not heard of them failing as much as the o-rings wearing out and developing coolant leaks out of the weep-hole. If that ends up being the case, you have plenty of notice/time to get the pump serviced.

Cheers, Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

Mine's still going strong at 140k. I have a brand new spare in a box should it ever fail. I haven't changed it simply due to the hassle.

It seems to me that Nissan water pumps might be failing early when the system is filled with the wrong coolant - namely any coolant containing silicates, or mixing with water that is not distilled. As well, not changing (drain & replace - none of this expensive flush stuff) on a regular basis (like every 30k or 60k) would seem to increase the chance of a failure.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

Actually, your GLE (so must be automatic), should be at ~2500RPM at

70mph (assuming you have overdrive enabled) if everything is working as intended.... All depends where, who, how, why...

Here 97% [Finland] drivin is 50 or below under ticket cameras... this means 1900rpm with overdrive & gearlock, often CAT starts stinking as too low rpm... (-93 VGE). Live in germany, 4500rpm would be common:)

If u have A/T: ...check that your gearlock is working; needs 15min warmup drive. After engagement, drops rpm about 300. (When gearlock is ON, pushing lightly gas pedal causes no rpm change, only speed starts to go up. Pushing hard, gearlock disengages, rpm shoots up)

Reply to
Wiikinki

Yes. Just let it die when it dies. It usually starts gradually with a leak. That'll be your signal.

For preventive maintenance to make it last as long as possible, stay away from most American anti-freezes like Prestone. Japanese cars use a silicatre free anti-freeze which is less abrasive. Given the considerable labor involved with the water pump replacement it will easily justify the increased expense of the japanese coolants.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

hmmmm we may have something here, good advice here gang

Reply to
NissTech

I'll bet if I google back far enough, I learned a lot of it from either some dip named NissTech or a Daniel B. Martin. :)

Dave

NissTech wrote:

Reply to
David Geesaman

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