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306 1.9TD Cam Belt replacement

I'm about to replace the cam and auxiliary belts on my 1999 'S' 306 1.9TD (XUD9 engine).

According to the Halfords manual, the camshaft and fuel pump sprockets can be locked in position using 8mm bolts in the holes provided. The crankshaft allegedly can be locked in TDC position by inserting an 8mm rod or drill shaft into a hole in the flywheel via "the hole in the left-hand flange of the cylinder block by the starter motor".

This area on my car is completely obscured by the oil filler, fuel filter and a coolant manifold, and perhaps the starter motor. It is impossible to see where the hole might be, let alone gain access to insert a rod.

The Haynes book makes no mention of the need to remove all these items. Am I missing something? There are no alignment marks on the new belt, so I assume there will be no alignment marks on the sprockets as there have been on previous cars I have owned.

Would it be safe to lock the camshaft and fuel pump sprockets, and then carefully mark the position of the crankshaft sprocket before removal of the old belt?

Peter

Reply to
Eccles
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if in doubt remove the starter so you can get to the hole in the block

Reply to
Mindwipe

Reply to
Michael Roche

"M> if in doubt

Thank you gentlemen. I shall explore both options.

I think I might go for the locking tool option. Can I also use it to lock the engine when I loosen the crankshaft bolt? Haynes actually shows such a tool in position for this purpose, but with the engine out and gearbox removed. They don't mention the removable segment. Haynes specifically advises against using the 8mm rod for this purpose, presumably because it might shear or bend. I have some 1/4" steel plate handy which should do the job.

Peter

Reply to
Eccles

I did one of these engines a couple of weeks ago and it is quite possible to insert a rod into the back of the flywheel, but you won't get anything larger than 6 mm into the hole. I used an allen key with some stiff wire wrapped round it to hold it in place. Use a small torch and look at an angle down behind the starter, and you will see the hole in the V of the webs cast into the block. I think it is safer to use the correct rod, as otherwise it could be that you repeat an error made by the last person to replace the belt, or the old belt could have jumped a tooth from being a little too slack - I have seen this. To undo the crankshaft nut, I lock the front disc (I had the ventilated ones) with a stout screwdriver in the vent slot and against the brake calliper. Then you need a socket and VERY long bar to stand any chance of undoing it. Oh, and put it into 5th gear. On the car I did, I could not, for anything, remove the bolt from the crankshaft, so I had to remove the lower plastic cover, then pull the belt out round the aux belt pulley.

Reply to
Brian

Reply to
Michael Roche

two methods I have used to overcome the above problems,

1,, crank pulley bolt fit long bar and socket, jam bar on the floor, or ground or axle stand, turn the ignition key for 1 - 2 seconds pulley turns clockwise bolt is loosened,

2,, belt locking tools, if they are not available,very carefully cut the belt in half, right around the circumference and remove the outer section, leaving the inner section to maintain the timing, carefully fit the new belt until it pushes the old section off the pulleys, cut the old belt to remove, these methods will work on most vehicles, some people will frown on these methods, but they have got me out of the proverbial, many times, when the standard methods have failed,

Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

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