405 Diesel problem

Have you comp insurance? If so try out a new pump. From previous comments on this forum I think a new pump is about £1000, but will stand corrected on this.

Get a quote for repair and check out second hand recon unit or another option would be to replace from a scrapyard (err sorry, Recyle Agents).

Not in the trade. Have had to check out possible engine replacement and found out the following.

The pump is linked to immobilisier and a second hand unit will probably have an unknown code.(Do not know if it is integrated with pump or interconnected in some way) In any event, just fitting a second hand pump will not work unless you have the code.

If you are lucky then it will be the factory default code.If not then some auto electricians have a computer equipment to default the unit.(LSUK have this for their pump but do not know for any others)

Check this info out with sellers etc. before committing any money or get some sort of refund worked out before buying.

All good advice , Thanks Spud, its a Lucas XUD.110 pump , I have spent most of the afternoon removing the pump something has collapsed inside it, I can turn the main shaft with my fingers ? and there is a tinkling noise coming from it when turned,

the car does have a immobilizer pad, and the pump has two plug connections located in the rear mounting plate,, maybe one of these is the immobilizer connection, ? Can someone confirm this, also would it be possible to by-pass the immobilizer and fit a bosch pump,,,,,,,,

Thanks Peter

It is possible to bypass the immobiliser.Don't know about fitting Bosch unit.

Check out the ebay site

Also has a filter attached but the casing is broken.

"I have absolutely no connection with the seller."

Sugar's more common, and gives exactly that symptom with a diesel. I know because my brother put some in mine a few years back when he had a bit of a munk-on. I got away with a good clean out, new filter and a couple of new injectors. It's a trick only played on diesel owners by the feeble minded, basically it's a well known sabotage for petrol engines. Can't help with the pump, sounds like you were unlucky. Rick

Thanks for the link Spud, The photo is not very clear, I have emailed the vendor for some info off the ID plate on the pump Fitzy

Hi Rick, the contamination in the filter bowl was like a soggy wheetabix, (for want of a better word) after emptying out the bowl, and letting the contents dry, it was like chalk dust, My mechanic mate also informed me that it has a very strong salt taste, thanks for your input Fitzy

Found a replacement pump, the type code is the same (XUD110) it looks identical, I have put in to LSUK, to have the immobilizer section swapped over, A new timing belt and alternator belt will be fitted,

Any other bits I could change while I am in there, ???

Thanks Peter

Ah, salt then. It was the gunked up fuel filter that reminded me of my dice with sweeteners. In my case it just got more difficult to start as the filter got more clogged. It was quite amusing, the guy at the diesel specialist wouldn't believe we'd not been running it on chip-fat or something.

Rick.

How much are LSUK charging for recode?

Get the water pump checked out. Maybe no need to change.

They quoted me £35-00, This is to swap over the immobilizer section from my original pump and check the replacement pump, Peter

Sugar and Salt are relatively easy to remove from the tank and pipes, but the salt started corroding the internal mechanism of the pump, The car became difficult to start, poor acceleration, and although it would surge when at idle, it would not respond to the accelerator pedal, this car never did any of these things prior to this, its just a shame, because although we have other cars in the family,, this was the most hard working and most dependable,

Peter

Hi All, got the pump back at 4-30pm today (Saturday) have started fitting it back on car, Rain stopped play !!

I didn't expect to get the pump back until next week, so I never got round to getting the timing belt fitting procedure,

Can anyone advise on the timing marks, or send me a diagram,

Many thanks Fitzy

Hello,

Ouch :-)

Spot on, XUD9TE, well I replaced my brother's car cambelt (205 DTurbo, XUD7T, very similar), no timing marks. Once you bolted the two (or three) bolts on pulleys & pushed the flywheel pin to lock engine, you put new belt (and eventually tensionner), tight side at the Diesel pump, loose side at the camshaft, remove locking pins & bolts, turn the engine on 2 revs by the crankshaft (22mm spanner). My tip : place pulleys' holes in front of engine's holes then try to fit the flywheel pin (may need shaking, the same way you put it before) then try to bolt the pulleys. You three (or four) locks are properly in place ? You won, your cambelt is properly fit.

HTH, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

Hi GT, Thanks for the insight and the tips, The flywheel locking tool had me stumped, until I removed the starter motor, and voila, there it was, a quick clean out with a bolt, (using it like a file) and the tool fitted perfectly the cam and pump holes where visible, and as you said, the belt went on from the pump side towards the cam and tentioner, My 405 is running perfectly once again apart from a small amount of engine surge from 600rpm to 1100rpm, can this be adjusted, or do I need a specialist to set the pump up, Many thanks to all Regards Fitzy

Hi,

You're welcome !

The tool looks like a L, no need to remove starter on a XUD7T, perhaps not the same fitting type, or the same starter (from memory, could be either a Bosch or a Mitsubishi on a 405 - I prefer Boschs from far).

What do you call a "small amount of engine surge" ? A kind of power loss ? If it is the case, be sure all air & fuel pipes / hoses are properly bolt, since my brother had the same kind of problem with its 205 (plus an intermittend idle problem, sometimes stuck @2k RPM), which was solved by changing rubber fuel pipes - needless to say we found it with a little of luck, indeed he was stuck on the road, engine not starting, was a blown fuel pipe (the part in the engine bay, not the return one).

Regards, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

Hi GT engine surge ?? is what I would call it .. when the engine is at idle speed and then rev's up without pressing the accelerator,, then back to idle speed, so the engine is surging between 600 and 1100 rpm, when it should be steady at 900 rpm, you would probably have another name for this problem,

Peter

Hi,

Ok, I see, but no clue.

Not into english :-)

Regards, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

Hi Peter,

I've just got an idea, not sure it will be a good one : have you bought the whole pump + its mounting already fit, or just the pump, you then put on your mounting ? If you bought the pump itself "alone" (not fit on its mounting part) you may have an advance / adjustment problem. BTW, that's the reason why when I removed my brother's pump for overhauling, I removed both pump & support as if it was a single part, to avoid changing the pump advance (and also, because it was far easier).

Regards, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr