406: Clicking Air Circulation Motor

Just got this problem on 98 406 SL where motor clicks (presumably) because the limit switch is not working.

I have disconnected the motor - which requires a contortionist to reach the comnnector - so I can have the air on external (I never use the recirc mode anyway).

Q: Any sort of repair looks difficult for access reasons. How difficult is it, and what roughly are the parts costs?

Chris K

Reply to
Chris K
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Don't know if I can answer your question--but I will add one of my own--is the clicking coming from beneath the glovebox? I have a 1998 406 SRDT, and ever since the dealer changed the pollen filter this constant clicking began. I had them look at it and they reckoned it had nothing to do with changing the filter; but they didn't fix the clicking either. Is this the same problem? Bryn Parry Tasmania

Reply to
BrynleyParry

Hi Bryn,

This is quite likely to be the result of changing the pollen filter as when the filter is removed, crap can drop down into the heater airways. The secret is to hoover up all the dirt on the outside of the old filter first before taking it out. One cause of the dreaded clicking flap motor syndrome is a stuck flap, jammed by dirt. I've not had this but instead had problems with the hot/cold mixing flap on the right hand side of the heater.This turned out to be a problem with the electronics which for me as an electronic engineer was much easier to fix. I did take off the drive motor however. The re-circulate motor is on the left hands side as you sit in the car an is screwed onto the side cheek of the heater box. Once removed you can work the flaps by hand and hopefully dislodge what ever is jamming the flap. Make sure you re-engage the motor drive and flapat the right place eg moter set to fully open and the flap fully open. Otherwise you will have to take is all out again. (don't ask how I know this!!) Test it all before refitting all the trim. This is an awkward job = lots of time = expense if you ask your garage to do it. Definitely a DIY job I reckon.

Good luck

Reply to
Bob Minchin

No, the flap is not jammed, works OK in response to the switch but when it gets into the fully open position, the motor does not stop. The clicking noise sounds like plastic gearwhhels skipping. I can't really see what the mechanism looks like without dismantling around the fascia whch I am not going to do in the middle of Winter. Looks like a time consuming job - does anyone know what needs replacing once you get there? The Haynes book does not mention it.

One for lighter (and warmer) times I think.

Chris K

Reply to
Chris K

OK understood. I don't know how the motor is controlled at the ends of the travel. On the temp control motor flap, the electronic driver limits the current when the motor stalls but the freshair/recirculate flap only has to be open or shut and so possibly uses a limit switch, possibly inside the drive gearbox. I'd take it off the heater flap box and play with it indoors in the warm to see what happens and how it works. In the meantime turn up the radio!!

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

I assssumed it was limit switches but it could be sensing the motor stall - in which case it is probably stripped gear teeth or something like that causing the motor never to stall.

Easier to disconnect it, I don't think I could stand the graunching noise knowing that it was running continuously making repair ever more unlikely. Driving around for a few days on recirc has been very bad for misting up. Never use the recirc position anyway.

Chris K

Reply to
Chris K

(presumably)

not sure on price of part but about half hour to change(done quite a few b4 migrating to fords)

Reply to
Mindwipe

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