Re: Oil burning... cont..

No temporary cure can be made but if you have a catalytic convertor fitted you may damage this if it smokes like a battleship. I had the valve seals fail on a 405 but it never did any lasting harm, but when the smoking became bad the police took noticed, so the seals had to be replaced. I was told this was a common fault. The valve guides where not worn at all only the seals.

Hi Guys, > > I posted a while ago about my XU-engined 305 with a 405 injection head which > seems to be burning oil. From what I figured, I reckoned it was coming down > through the valve seals, mainly because I didn't replace them when I > stripped and rebuilt the head prior to fitting it on the car - so, sod's law > says that's the problem ;) Also, I've heard that the valve guides on early > 405's had a problem with excessive wear (not sure if it's true though). > I'm pretty certain it's not anything like high pressure from blocked hoses > or anything, although admittedly, I haven't run any engine cleaning stuff > through it, but the hoses were fine when I swapped the head and there's no > sign of anything fouling up in there now. > I'm trying to figure out if it is the valve guides or if it's actually the > piston rings. > Symptoms are as follows: > > After leaving the car running at idle for a few minutes when warm, blue > smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. This gets worse when I pull away. If > I've been stationary for a long time, it can take a couple of miles to get > rid of it all. > Of course, this means I slowly lose oil. I've now noticed that when I'm low > on oil - almost at the minimum marker - it seems to stop burning oil. > There's no smoke and I don't seem to lose any more oil (at least, not so > quickly as to make it visible on the sort of miles I make). My oil pressure > is still fine according to the gauge. > Does this make it more likely to be the cylinder head causing the problems? > I'm just thinking maybe not so much oil is getting up to the head when my > oil level is that low, making it seem like the problem has gone away. > > I'm not going to be able to fix it for a while... not enough time or money > at the moment. What's the best course of action? Is it likely to cause more > damage more quickly if I leave the oil level low, but not below the minimum? > > Cheers, > > Chris. > >
Reply to
CW
Loading thread data ...

Thanks, I was looking for that. Interesting that the valve guides were not worn - I wonder if I could get away with just changing the seals? I don't have a cat so I think it'll be alright for a while longer. BTW, mine WAS smoking like a battleship until it burnt it's way down to about 1/4 above minimum on the dipstick, then all the smoking went away. I figured I was about to completely run out of oil, but it still seems to be chugging along at the moment. I'm just checking it regularly and making sure the oil level doesn't fall too low.

Chris.

Reply to
Chris Barnard

Reply to
Mindwipe

Hi,

True. Valve queue seals are a common XU fault - don't know if it ever was corrected, but I assume it was on "Mk2" XUs (known as 2.0 iron block). Note that, for some reason, it seems to affect only petrol version, not Diesel.

Regards, G.T snipped-for-privacy@worldonline.fr

205 Diesel & turbo-Diesel :
formatting link
Reply to
G.T

The engine was a 1.6 XU Mk1 The valve seals where replaced at around 63,000m they had become very hard, the replacements had a modified material. Incidently the car was sold on at

130,000m + never smoking or burning oil again also no rattles etc. I do know from past experience of Pug all alloy engines they seemed reliable providing the cooling system is regulary checked for level and any leaks. If ever they are allowed to overheat, the reliability of all the water and oil seals etc never seemed the same again.

Reply to
CW

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.