Baffling problem with 1994 Grand Prix

My buddy has a '94 GP, 3.1, automatic. He has a problem with the starter circuit. Quite frequently, turning the ignition switch results only in a clank in the starter, but the starter will not spin the engine.

His son is an ASE certified mechanic, and they have spent hours on this problem with no success. Parts replaced so far: starter (3 times); battery; battery cables; ignition switch; neutral safety switch; ignition switch wiring harness. The wiring has been checked; the firewall wiring harness socket and plug cleaned; all connections cleaned and tightened.

He can get usually the starter to turn by repeatedly bumping the switch. When this fails, he can start the car by jumping the connections on the starter relay.

His son now thinks it may have something to do with the anti-theft device, but we all think the anti-theft device would keep the engine from starting, not keep the starter from spinning.

Any insight or ideas on this problem would be much appreciated.

Reply to
elaich
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Years ago, the symptoms you describe were the starter solenoid going bad. That should have been the first thing checker. Now I would think that it is the starter relay, since you can get it started by shorting across the relay contacts (that is what we used to do with the solenoid. But I don't see the relay being replaced or tested. Why not?

Tom S.

Reply to
Tom S.

Sounds to me like the ignition switch is bad. Have the ASE guy test it.

Reply to
« Paul »

Tom S. wrote in news:gkmhg3taegtup721rnmahqmhdnb2qs7lv2@

4ax.com:

I guess I should have said that he jumps across the solenoid. That's the small, round device on top of the starter, right?

Does this car have a separate starter relay? If so, where is it located?

Reply to
elaich

"« Paul »" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net:

Parts replaced so far: starter (3 times); battery; battery cables; ignition switch;

Reply to
elaich

Yes. That is the first thing I would have thought to replace. Did the new starters come with solenoids? I know you could buy the solenoid separately in the past.

I don't know. If it does, there should be a block of relays on the wheel well. The starter relay would be there. I think the relay block took the place of the old voltage regulator.

Tom S.

Reply to
Tom S.

Wow. YOu have gone thru a lot of things (and I should have re-read your orig post closer). Ok. Now to do some diagnosis... What is the volt reading on the solenoid energize wire when the ign switch is turned? What is the ohm reading between engine and the battery during the failed crank attempt?

Reply to
« Paul »

First a few words of wisdom:

In all the years I've been in business, I fired most of my ASE techs, book smarts do not transfer into practical smarts.

That being said.

Your car has a metric starter, same looks as the 55 and up starters, but a smaller metric size. The solenoid should have came with the reman or new starter. If you transferred anything from the old starter: ie.: A cannister shorter than the starter, and 2.5 inches in diameter. Return the starter, and get a complete unit.

If the starter always clicks/clanks when you turn the key, the starter relay is not an issue.

If on the other hand the starter doesn't clank every time you turn the key, go to

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look in thr components locator in online guides, find the relay and replace it.

Reply to
Refinish King

An addition to this post.

Do a voltage drop test on the positive battery cable, from the pos post on the battery with the neg lead of your voltmeter, to the terminal where it bolts up on your starter.

Anyth>>

Reply to
Refinish King

"« Paul »" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net:

Next time we spend a Saturday trying chase down this problem, I'll have him check those. He was getting a reading of between 4 and 6 volts on one of the solenoid leads when the starter failed, and was still engaged.

Reply to
elaich

"Refinish King" wrote in news:gIfOi.4767$9r2.4641@trndny04:

This guy is super sharp. He knows what he's doing.

All three of the brand new starters were complete.

Reply to
elaich

You might have to do a theft module relearn:

Let me know how you make out plase.

Reply to
Refinish King

"Refinish King" wrote in news:SAiOi.7590$gC2.1677 @trndny09:

And just how is that done?

Reply to
elaich

Make sure you have a fully charged battery first:

Keep a charger on the battery.

From the key off position, turn the key till all the dash lights go on, do not try to start the car. Leave the key on for ten minutes.

After the first ten minutes, turn the key off for no more than ten seconds, then turn the key on again, but do not start the car. Leave the key on for ten minutes again.

Then turn the key off for no more than ten seconds again, and repeat step number two.

After the ten minute wait, turn the key off for no more than ten seconds, then try to start the car.

You can sometimes do this in one attempt of step one, but. I find following the three step procedure works best.

Good luck, and I hope mthis cures your problem.

Reply to
Refinish King

if u had a security issue the light would flash or stay on...will security light come on with key on self check... when key is turned on to run light comes on then goes out ..all is good..most systems inhibit spark or fuel with cranking..

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Reply to
autodog

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