Lifters Part 2

Thanks to everyone who responded on my previous post about the lifters, before I head out I have just a few more quick questions.

1) I took the car to a German auto mechanic to have it looked at, what would be a fair price for something like this to be taken care of?

2) My 944 has such low miles, at just 105,000 why would it already need new lifters/valves? I had read such good things about Porsche engines before I bought it. The previous owner said it wasn't "abused" or "on the track" but now i'm starting to wonder.

Thanks.

Reply to
Subway Bargin Thursdays!
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I seriously doubt you need to replace any of the valves or lifters. The previous owner may have used some bad oil or oil additive that is sludging up the works. If your local mechanic has the Bilstein engine flush, I would try to clear the sludge first.

Reply to
Devils944S2

hello, if that's 105,000 miles then you are so fortunate to have gotten this far ! you feel he might have lied ?????? NO ! note: it probably wasn't raced or abused and this could be your problem . anyway , you are long overdue for the repair . regards, d.

Reply to
dickie

do you know about : www.performanceproducts com ?

Reply to
dickie

Actually, the 944 engine should go 250,000 miles before you need to any valve work.

Reply to
Devils944S2

Why?

What could be my problem?

?
Reply to
Subway Bargin Thursdays!

Like I said...I seriously doubt it. I have owned/worked on 944's since the late 80's and have never heard of a needed rebuild at 105K. Flush the engine, run 10/40 or 20/50 and see how it goes.

Reply to
Devils944S2

Thanks for the heads up, i'll look for a local shop that has a Bilstein flush system or something similiar...sounds like a good cleaning is all it might need.

Reply to
Subway Bargin Thursdays!

Err wait, I think i'll just drop a Chevy V8 instead!

....NOT

Reply to
Subway Bargin Thursdays!

..and you thought your top end was loud now!!!

Reply to
Devils944S2

Used to have the same exact problem on my 84 944 na. Tried numbeous oils and additives. Finally settled on Valvoline single weight 30. No more problems. I have over 300,000 miles on this engine and it runs perfectly with no valve noise.

MV oil has an oxidizer to make the oil viscosity increase with temperature. When a MV oil flows around a hot spot such as valve stem etc it gets too thick and lubrication is decreased locally. Final result is damaged valves.

Reply to
George Hamilton

Actually, they have polymers in them to keep the absolute viscosity from going too low. At higher temps oil, even multiweight, get thinner, not thicker. Porsche specifies multiweight oil for the motor for good reason, less startup wear, and good hot protection. When changed at proper intervals, and the correct weight is used for the temperatures, it work just fine. Given that pretty much every car made in the last

30+ years has been spec'ed out to use multiweight by every manufacturer, and knowing first hand how much they hate warranty cost, I would say there is a reason for using it.
Reply to
Morgan Bullard

MV oils are designed to reach a nominal viscosity at average engine ambient temperature. Hot zones in the engine will make the MV oil go over posted viscosity. I have observed this directly in operating engines. In one instance the oil became so thick around the valve guide that lubrication failed, the valve seized from metal flowing and the engine stopped. 10w 50 oil. I have been driving and repairing engines for over 55 years. Use Valvoline single weight oils and your engines will last.

Reply to
George Hamilton

Reply to
D Corley

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