Porsche 924 - electrical problems

Hi guys,

Well, having decided that I'm just gonna have to get used to the seating position in my 924 or look out for a smaller steering wheel/longer steering wheel column, I've turned my attention to the electrics - which are mostly OK but have a few annoying problems. First off, the left-hand door window stopped winding down yesterday - the motor sounded a bit rough before it went, so I guess that's it. Best price I've found so far for a winder motor is £70 - does anyone know if the motors were fitted to any other cars that I might find in a breaker's yard?

Second, the fresh air fan refuses to work. I've checked the power supply to the motor, and with the ignition on, the fan only gets 0.3v whatever setting is selected. Now, the fuse is OK but according to the wiring diagram, there's a relay somewhere for the motor. I can't find it though - does anyone know where it is? It's not listed in the owners manual as being part of the bank of relays next to the fuse box.

Third, the remote boot release doesn't work at all. The motor in the back has 12V, but nothing happens when I press the switch - although the switch itself is working fine. I think maybe there's something up with the wiring, but I can't find any references to a remote boot release in any of the circuit diagrams in the Haynes manual. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for this or know how it's supposed to work?

One final thing - does anyone know the correct speaker size to fit in these cars? I'd heard its 6x4, but I just got some Pioneer 6x4s and they refuse to fit into the speaker holes - they're very slightly too large. Anyone know of a decent speaker model that *will* fit?

Thanks for any help,

Chris.

Reply to
Chris B
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Reply to
Dave L.

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the pointers. I'm going to try to cut down my speakers a little bit to get them to fit. I've bought some extra ones for the rear now as well, so hopefully the combined effect will sound OK. It sounds a bit of a pain to fit them at the back, though.

The fan which refuses to work is the main fresh air fan located under the bonnet just in front of the windscreen. I don't have AC.

Cheers,

Chris.

Reply to
Chris B

Try looking at something like a Saab.

If it is a cable based system lookat Saab 9000's if it is a=20 paralellagram type system (with a toothed regulator quadrant) look saab=20

900's.

BTW, have you removed a motor and carefully opened it? Could just be=20 that it has gotten gummed up with old grease and dirt and just need a=20 clean and relube if it worked previously. Worth checking out before=20 spending.

--=20 The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

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Reply to
MeatballTurbo

With time and grime, the guides become too grubby and resistant for the motors, and they often give up, but also check the switches as they tend to arc and need cleaning and eventual replacement. I've had best results with new (Porsche or OEM) ones rather than used spares.

The fan runs constantly (even at full off) when the ignition is on, I don't think there's a relay for it. There's a module containing a set of resistors for the fan, IIRC, located in the engine compartment at the top of the firewall. These can go or the contacts get bumped off. It's cylindrical in shape and about 3-4 inches long, like half a small cigar.

It powers a cable which releases the 2 catches for the tailgate. Note that unless the pneumatic struts are new, the tailgate will not self-lift, only be unlocked, and you can lift it from outside the car. I didn't realise this for many years until I had to fit some new struts and was flabbergasted when the tailgate lifted itself!

Can't help on this. I think that they need to be quite slim. Try some of the Porsche specialists advertising in the Porsche-only mags. You'll also find the major Porsche breakers there - generally very helpful and reasonably priced. The 924 was common for a Porsche and there are lots of spares about.

Reply to
Christopher Roberts

Thanks for the ideas - I took the interior door panel off yesterday so here's a little update:

Took the whole window winder mechanism + motor out. Looked to be jammed up and pretty much all the visible gears where slightly rusty. I unbolted the motor and then seperated it from the worm gear - plugged the motor back in and it ran fine. Liberally doused every moving part first in WD40, then

3-in-1 oil and finally greased all the gears. Ran the motor, seemed to be much smoother and was running the worm gear fine. So, I put the whole winder mechanism back together, but left it out of the door. Ran it up and down a few times. Worked fine five or six times, then it locked up in the 'window up' position. I had to take the motor back out from the mechanism and then bolt it back in again - then it worked fine again. Had several more similar incidents - the motor locks when it hits the top of it's run maybe 1 in 5. Finally decided that it was working - put everything back together and, of course, first time I run the window up, it cuts out again. I managed to get it to come back down one more time after I started the engine, then, on the wind back up, it stopped working again. It seems like the gears mesh together and the motor doesn't have enough power to pull them apart - but it only happens when the mechanism reaches the top of its run. I'm guessing maybe the motor is just worn out, but it seems a bit weird.

Found that. Everything seems in order. A previous owner has done some pretty odd re-wiring around the fuse box - for some reason the original fuel relay and fuse has been replaced with a whole bunch of wires hanging loose with a different relay and fuse in line and there are some connectors that aren't plugged into anything. I think it has something to do with the immobiliser that's been fitted - but it does make me wonder if something else has been disconnected. At any rate, it's still a mystery.

The motor doesn't run. Basically, the boot lock doesn't work either, so every time I want to open the boot (fortunately not that often) right now, I'm having to climb into the boot from the front seats, pull the lining out at the back and turn the lock from the inside. I figured it wouldn't be too bad with the lock not working if I could get the motor to turn - but, I just can't seem to get it working. The switch works, but the meter reading by the motor seems to show that it has no effect.

The actual problem with the speakers is that they don't fit in the holes. I think they are slim enough, but they are about 1 - 2mm bigger all the way round the edge of the speaker. I think it's just a problem with the particular design of speaker I've bought.

Well, I'll continue pulling things apart next weekend.

Cheers!

Chris.

Reply to
Chris B

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