2010 Prius III fuel efficiency hypermiling results

I purchased a 2010 Prius III in April 2010. I've been trying out a variety of hypermiling techniques on it since then and I have purchased a Scan gauge II recently to refine those techniques.

On short 15 mile summer runs the MFD says that the Prius has gotten about 81 mpg; however, the MFD FE computations tends to over estimated the mpg by 3 to 5 mpg so the FE is probably closer to 75 mpg. The overall mileage between tank fill ups (usually about 9 gallons or every 500 miles or so) is much less. On these extended distances, the 2010 Prius computed mpg has been as low as 52 mpg and has high as 64 mpg with the average overall mpg to be around 60 mpg.

Reply to
Neo
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Reply to
Bruce Richmond

The temperature in the Washington DC Area has dropped down to a high of 40 F degrees to a low of 28 F degrees. Fuel efficiency on my 2010 Toyota Prius III droped down to an average of 55 mpg for a oneway 12 mile commute

- this is down from an average of 65 mpg for the same

12 mile commute during the summer time. The problem is not with the tire's rolling resistance (tire pressures is 44 psi in front and 42 psi in the rear) but with the lower power performance from both the ICE and MG during the colder temperatures. Also using the defroster/heater during the winter lowers the ICE energy efficiency. Furthermore, It takes more energy for the ICE to keep the emissions control equipment at the proper temperature when the outside temperature is near freezing. To help keep the ICE warm - I've started to block both the top and bottom grills - during the 12 mile commute. I am monitoring the coolant temperatures via ScangaugeII via the FWT gauge. The ICE water/coolant temperature is peakomg somewhere between 160 F to 188 F degrees ( If the ScangaugeII FWT climbs to 200 F degrees I plan start removing the top grill blocking ) so far there has been no hint that the ICE might overheat due to the grill blocking. I've notice that grill blocking has reduce the number of time the ICE needs to run inorder to keep the ICE/emission temperature up...

2010 Prius III, Blue Ribbon/Dark Grey,OEM floormats Yokohama Avid S33 (44psi front, 42psi rear)

Reply to
Neo
Reply to
Bruce Richmond

This is essentially the technique I use with my 2010. Since my commute to work ends with a roughly 7/8 mile low-load (all either downhill or level, low speed) run, and my commute home ends with a 2.5 mile or so low load run, I'm able to drive those last sections with the ICE running but the electric motor doing all the driving. This raises my average about 1.1 MPG going to work, and 2.5 coming home. Since the ICE is going to have to run a lot to warm up the next time the car is started, it may as well be charging the battery pack as well. The battery pack is never below two bars when I shut the car off, and is usually at 4 or 4.

Reply to
Leftie

Good luck on snow and ice with those tires and pressures.

Reply to
News

You're screwing yourself on this one.

The traction batteries are vented to the passenger cabin, because they are designed to work best in the same environment as what's comfortable for the passengers.

Leaving the AC and heat off is WORSE for the traction batteries.

Reply to
Elmo P. Shagnasty

When he runs into me on the road, I'm going to take his tire pressures and add them to the police report. When the insurance companies start bickering, I'm going to make sure his insurance company knows that he was misusing the car in a dangerous way.

Not covered by insurance, trust me.

Reply to
Elmo P. Shagnasty

You won't be hydroplaning on snow and ice, skippy.

You will be skating.

Reply to
News

And worse to none at those tire pressures.

Reply to
News

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