Hi Folks. My Rover 45 has just flashed the check engine light, and its stayed on. What would this usualy mean.? Its a deisel (first one Ive had) so surely there cant be that much to go wrong ! I dont think its gone into linp mode as I can still rev it above 3k rpm.
Where is the connector that you plug the test gear into and what does it look like.? I dont have a haynes manual for this model so im a bit stumpt. :-/
i also noticed that the glow plugs are hard to get to, is there any special tools for that job.?
The engine in the diesel 45 is the same as fitted to the 25/200/400, the Haynes manual for the 200/400 (new shape) would cover the majority of the car except bodyshell fittings. Look for L series diesel.
Without a diagnostics tester, who knows, the diagnostics plug in port is usually just to the left of where your left foot resides, just behind the centre console. It can also be found in the internal fuse box, just above your right knee cap. I use a cheap £30 quid box, bright orange with two blue buttons and an LCD display to tell you whats wrong, available from ebay.
Before you go too mad, look for the obvious stuff like disconnected or cracked/split hoses, loose leads, collapsed turbo hoses, dirty air filters etc. You are right, there is not a lot to go wrong as they are generally pretty reliable, but an awful lot that can.
Thanks for the reply, I did find the port and used my fathers little gadget to test it. I used his GS300. it to is Bright Orange. Though it said there was no faults ! But when I try to clear the codes (Even though there aint any) It just say Link Failed. So something aint right ! The light stays On on the Dash. :-/
I just bought a CD Maunual from Ebay so hopefully that should help.
Also if I go through the menus of the GS300 to the I/M Readiness Status It does show the MIL Light is ON Im guessing the MIL light is the Check Engine symbol.? But there is no way to turn it OFF. well none I can see. Any Ideas.?
The problem started today, when I felt a very quick drop in speed for a split second. it did it twice in about 10 min. then the light came on. After that it never happend again. Why would the light stay on, yet no codes be shown.?
As this is my first ever deisel I aint got a clue what to look for. I only bought it coz deisels are suposed to be reliable. ! Would I be able to keep driving about with the light on, or will it shut down on me at some point.?
Can anyone tell me why this Geniscan GS300 Give me an error when I try to clear codes.? It keeps coming up with "Link Error" And the MIL Light stays on.
Perhaps, but that doesn't really help someone in trouble does it, which in turn doesn't help the marque. I'm not anti Rover, I own one, but you have to be realistic if there are very few contributors.
Hi guys. Well I did find this URl by googling about.
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full of usefull info about the 45 and especialy the Deisel type. This GS300 does Kind of work, I think. It does connect and try to read the faults, yet it doesnt find any. Maybe the fault is in a system that its not got access to.? I was only trying to turn the fault light OFF. Maybee I should just pop the dash out and pull the bulb. or even fit a small switch. Just so it doesnt keep bugging me. :-)
The Rover diesels are not fully OBD2 compliant and so, generic code readers will NOT display the codes nor turn off the MIL (engine warning light).
The only one that is compatible apart from the Testbook used by dealers is a Sykes Pickavant ACR2 or ACR4 with a Rover V4 pod plugged in.
I spend months trying to find out why my laptop based reader would not work. Its because the ecu uses a seed/key algorithm to prevent unauthorised access. No generic code readers have this ability (its not needed for OBD2 compliant vehicles)
The petrol Rovers are compliant so the generic readers will work on these.
You can often pickup the ACR2 or 4 off Ebay, but you need the V4 pod and harness. (about =A3150 from SP)
Anyway to disconnect the brians from the car, and make the car just a very basic deisel.? After all it just needs power to the fuel pump and to the Glow plugs to run.
The only one that is compatible apart from the Testbook used by dealers is a Sykes Pickavant ACR2 or ACR4 with a Rover V4 pod plugged in.
I spend months trying to find out why my laptop based reader would not work. Its because the ecu uses a seed/key algorithm to prevent unauthorised access. No generic code readers have this ability (its not needed for OBD2 compliant vehicles)
The petrol Rovers are compliant so the generic readers will work on these.
You can often pickup the ACR2 or 4 off Ebay, but you need the V4 pod and harness. (about £150 from SP)
Scratch my last reply, that would be to much work. But.. What part of the car is it the the error codes coming from.? Is it the Silver brain box under the Bonnet down the pass side wing.? If so could that not be replaced, with an OBD2 Compliant unit.? After all there is pleanty of deisel cars on the roads that would be.
Just a thought.
Ow ya there is an ACR4 Sykes Pickavant on ebay but its shit loads of dosh.! Im Unemployed so I can't realy afford to buy those things, or to take it to a bloody garrage. Would that sykes thing also need a lead, as the photos dont show one, it just shows the unit, and the module, but no cables.
Regards Wombat.
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The only one that is compatible apart from the Testbook used by dealers is a Sykes Pickavant ACR2 or ACR4 with a Rover V4 pod plugged in.
I spend months trying to find out why my laptop based reader would not work. Its because the ecu uses a seed/key algorithm to prevent unauthorised access. No generic code readers have this ability (its not needed for OBD2 compliant vehicles)
The petrol Rovers are compliant so the generic readers will work on these.
You can often pickup the ACR2 or 4 off Ebay, but you need the V4 pod and harness. (about £150 from SP)
Yes, they are generated and stored in the ecu. NO other ecu can be fitted - they are vehicle specific. You cannot even replace it with another L series one unless you have it coded to the alarm/immobiliser ecu by a dealer with a Rover Testbook.
The ACR4 needs the correct cable as well as a Rover V4 pod. The ACR4 is basically just a display unit. It relies upon the plug-in pod to work with whatever vehicles the pod covers. V4 covers all the Rovers, petrol and diesel from about 1990, but you also need the correct cable.
Independent diesel specialists charge from about =A315-=A330 to read the codes and turn of the light. Former MGR dealers charge upto =A370. Try your Yellow pages and ask if they can do a Rover 45 (Its Bosch edc15m injection if they ask)
Thanks Ron Nice to have sobody else who`s into DIY on there own cars. I disagree with paying out a fortune for something a manufacturer has deliberately settup. The warning light should be like the oil lamp. only light when it needs filling, once filled it goes OUT. ! But hay, rover aint around anymore, so nobodys even around to care what we think. Shame there aint a quick bodge like the one for the 75, where you can just ground Pin 8 to clear all the service indicators.
Regards Wombat.
The ACR4 needs the correct cable as well as a Rover V4 pod. The ACR4 is basically just a display unit. It relies upon the plug-in pod to work with whatever vehicles the pod covers. V4 covers all the Rovers, petrol and diesel from about 1990, but you also need the correct cable.
Independent diesel specialists charge from about £15-£30 to read the codes and turn of the light. Former MGR dealers charge upto £70. Try your Yellow pages and ask if they can do a Rover 45 (Its Bosch edc15m injection if they ask)
Well I think you will find when the fault is repaired the light will go out and just leave the code stored, just as your oil lamp would. Its not Rovers fault you haven't any diagnostic equipment, the days are gone where you could use an led to find what code is stored, but still without a reference chart you would still be no better off, I don't think paying £30 / 40 to have some one who has invested in the equipment to tell you what's wrong is out of the way to pay. It will save a lot of guessing and wasted time if you value your time in pounds that is.
Guess what.. No I Wasnt Wrong. I got the problem diagnosed by N. Grayson LTD in sheffield. The fault was P1611 Main Relay Shuts of to early. Basicaly it was a one of bad contact on a relay that caused it to come on. If the Relay had died properly The car would not have started. So that explaned the reason for the Stutter, that happend. The engine was switching off then back on in the blink of an eye. The guy changed the Relay, then cleared the fault which the switched off the MIL Light. I dont think it was a dealer specific unit, but it was a very complex one. Also said it was not available to the general public. So maybe it was. He had axcess to all the security codes, and relay testing. So now I know how to use the car if the keyfob dies. Clever emergency option. I was impressed at how much the Brains of the car actualy controls nowerdays, an dhow easy it is to alter. Shame they have taken it out of the DIYers hands though. Unless your Richard Branson. Once i`ve got myself back into work I`ll end up buying one of those ACR4 jobis. Thanks for your info guys.
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