1994 900 SE Ball Joint Problem HELP NEEDED

This does not sound likely. It is certainly not the case for UK cars.

Do you have the chassis number? Do you know what the arm looks like?

Is it like this:

Or like this:

Well, I do have the VIN number.... YS3DN35N6R2034639. Again this is a 1994 (first year of the new style) 900SE turbo (coupe). The engine is a 2.0 litre four cyl. Is this enough info? If not, where can I find the chasis number? Thanks again for your help, I'll be looking forward to your reply.

Zal

Absolutely breath taking, isn't it? Here's the problem in a nutshell.

Unless you can actually check the used a-arm (and I really don't think you have any choice about this in your model) you cannot *know* that you are getting a unit that has not already been damaged - or is not at least as worn as the one you are taking out - until after you pay for shipping and labour to remove and install.

Guess what breaks first in a roll over and/or the several kinds of side-swipes? Guess what wears out first on most mid-northern states and provinces? I don't know exactly how it is around Detroit - but around here it looks like the roads have been shelled come spring. Sort of like all the 1st World War pix of No-Man's Land really.

Anyway - your least worst option if you choose this path is to find a salvage yard you can reach from the local yellow pages (which may be a problem with a broken ball joint in your current ride). If you find one available for strip - you should then ascertain the condition of both the frame bushings and the ball joint manually and in person. Then, assuming nothing is clicking, remove the whole assembly including the upper strut bearing mounts.

If you can get the whole strut/hub/a-arm assembly - you will have some other spares and it probably won't cost you all that much more. Besides, it is just as easy to pull everything as a unit than to try to part it out in the yard.

Everything at my local haunt seems to cost about $75.00. $50.00, if I pull it off myself.

You are looking for a machine that has seen a solid rear-ender and/or blown V6 and/or a serious transmission failure. You are *not* looking for something that has been rolled or kissed as above or one that has simply died of old age - because any or all of these conditions will likely have a compromised a-arm or attached bushing.

In all cases - you still may well find that whatever you bolt back in there from the used pile is still worn out - or dinged in such a way that it will be useless in about 25 miles.

Personally - and I know this really burns brother - I still really think you are better off going with dealer item on this one (not shop rates - but at least dealer matched part) if possible.

What are you seeing for quotes for a new part so far?

assuming

Besides,

Thank you for the idea. The crap yards in the area do not usually have Saabs, let alone 1994 Saabs. As such finding a suspension unit for a '94 SE turbo might prove a little tricky. Price quotes for new Saab parts directly from the dealership is $278 per side plus tax. As such it's going to be over $600 just for the parts, which in my mind is absolute lunacy. Do you know of anywhere where I can get used Saab parts? Possibly an internet site, or Saab used car dealers? Just a thought

You could try Goldwing in New York. They will ship. If you plan on keeping the vehicle, shop the web for new parts. I've seen these for sale before.

BL

Sorry - not meant to tick you off so much as make sure you really understood the detail regarding used wear items. I had a 1994 900S and had to replace the a-arm for a bad ball joint myself. Very frustrating, but I went for a dealer item at the end of the day for exactly the reasons you note.

For whatever it may be worth - this ball-joint/a-arm unit is pretty much the same for all the majors these days.

That said, I've had some luck with these folks:

Give them a ring and make sure you are working to vin number because I'm not so sure the a-arms are all exactly the same across NG900 models.

Once the pain passes - look at fitting a set of old style (not nivomat)

9000 rear shocks. You have to ream the lower shock bushing a little bit to make it work, but KYB will do fine.

This mod will really improve the handling 100% without introducing any harshness. Does a much better job of controlling body roll in the corners than stock.

Best prices on most of this kind of stuff can usually be found here:

-Fred W

Don't go to the stealer to buy parts. You can get the scat tech parts (which are refurbished SAAB OE parts) for $100 each.

again, go here:

-Fred W

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