9-3 brake rotor

I don't consider this to be a "heated" issue. Annoying - perhaps. Discouraging - definitely. My intent was to alert the OP to the fact that there IS a POSSIBILITY of damaging a component in the braking system by forcing back a volume of fluid far in excess of what would occur during normal use. And, based on my 30+ years of auto repair experience, I was willing to share a quick, easy method to insure that that possibility could be averted. I have never had a damaged component using this method, which can't be said about the results some of my fellow technicians have experienced over the years.

This doesn't surprise me at all. Over the years, the factory supplied journals I have consulted rarely get down to the level of telling you have to do the mundane procedures required in all jobs. Are they going to tell you which socket/wrench/extension/ratchet to use to change a spark plug, for example? I think Dave gives too little credit to the ingenuity of today's professional auto technicians. We don't need Saab's, or any other manufacturer's approval to validate what we have learned in the field. I really can't understand the Luddite mentality that is on display here.

Please re-read my post - at no point did I say that Saab requires/advises/recommends my suggestion. Is it in any Saab manual or TSB? Who cares? More importantly, why should they care? Is it so important that a benign procedure such as this should have the Saab "seal of approval? Well, to some in this group, it apparently seems to mean a lot.

As I said, this is often referred to as "best practice". It eliminates a potential problem, even if the odds of it occurrng are minute. Also, if you've ever employed this method, you know it is MUCH easier to push the piston in, thereby eliminating the need to use the Saab's tool-of-choice, Channel Locks. lt also gives you a close look at the condition of the brake fluid in the caliper. All-in-all, a lot of benefit for a small extra step.

Somehow, I doubt that he will agree with that. Thanks for your comments,

doug

Reply to
doug
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Who cares? As this group that helps to encourage the DIY, it is importatnt that the advice here is fairly accurate. Opening the bleed screw would POSSIBLY allow contaminants into the brake system. Which in my opinion, would be more harmful than the possibility that the ABS valves might be damaged. Keeping the closed system closed is the "best" practice IMO. I for one appreciate your input and suggestion. I read it and thought it through logically and do not find it to apply in this situation. On other cars it might. We all care. Some of the posters here have a high and mighty opinion of their advice. Most of us just read and keep quiet.

Good luck and happy motoring.

\ Mike Teeples /

1990 Saab SPG 125,000 mi 1987 Saab 900 Turbo 175,000 (RIP) 1985 Saab 900 Turbo 275,000 (RIP)

Reply to
Mike

You're the lone man out as far as SAAB is concerned. May be even for other brand and in general. Everyone I know on all the SAAB discussion group uses a c-clamp to force the piston back. On the rear ones after the screw has been backed out. Sometimes I even use a hammer if I can get leverage between the caliper and the piston shielded by the old pads. Not to pound on it but to pry and force the piston back. I have done it on my C-900 and all of mine 9k's over the years. Had four 9k and currently own three. Not once have I damaged any ABS's. BMW is the same way. It is hard to argue with facts regardless of how theoretically correct your procedure is.

I would never open the bleeder to replace brake pads. It invites trouble. I wonder if that is the reason the shop is charging customers more than they should if the practice is kept.

Reply to
yaofeng

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