I'm trying to replace my 1995 9000 that got run into and have just about given up on finding a decent 9000 I can afford or that I feel is worth the money they're asking for it. Tomorrow I'm looking at a 900 and a 9-3. Both SE. 900 is a 1997 with close to 100,000 miles. 9-3 is a 1999 with 75,000 miles. Both are manual. A lot, of course, will depend on how each one checks out "in person" but aside from that, is there anything else to consider when looking at one over the other? The 9-3 is $2,000US more than the 900.
Hi Laura, I own both models. FWIW, I swear the 97 900SE Talladega has a tighter/stiffer suspension. If you have the tech specs on the '97 900SE (or an '01 9-3SE), I'd love to see them for comparisons sake. As for the $2k pricing difference,
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should tell you if the pricing is "inline" with your market. Separately, $2k could buy a nice new set of tires and dampers/springs and lunch too... And though often maligned, the NG900/9-3 models do offer good "luxury" value, an ample hatch area, and a great turbo engine. Good luck with your hunt. Oh and if you find an immaculate '87/'88
9000T for sale in the USA Southeast, please post its info :o)
Auto Trader does a fairly decent job of offering a comparison. You can choose the models you want to compare.
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was suprised at how the 900/9-3 and the 9000 stacked up in terms ofspace. Haven't seen any of the older 9000s but haven't really been looking. Try
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That one has a special section for older cars
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've got to "work" zip codes to get get all the ones in the area. Thesearch engines for the different websites seem to be skewed in onedirection or another.
The one consideration that I would have is that transmission/clutch issues were resolved with the introduction of the hydraulic clutch on the '98 NG900 ( earlier NG900's had a cable clutch which were problematic). In addition, the cabin heating/cooling system was improved with later model NG 900..I think this also happened with the '98 model year but not sure on that.
The clutch cable issues are overrated. If you replace the cable every
45K (cheap job) you will never have issues. It is a little stiffer, particularly compared to Japanese clutches. (If it's a _lot_ stiffer, the car has problems).
I own a '97 SE and I love it - but given the choice, I'd buy the car with lower miles.
I got the 900 (1997 SE Talladega). The 9-3 wasn't available. The dealership said they'd checked it and it wasn't up to their standards so they were sending it to auction. Whatever. I feel in love with the 900 as soon as I got into it. In excellent shape, everything works, bright red with black leather. One local owner (from Carfax). The higher mileage doesn't bother me. Low mileage cars can hide a lot of problems produced by stop and go driving. It was a six hour drive home from the dealership, much of it on a dark and stormy night over substantial mountains. Car was perfect, although it does need new shoes. Has some odd brand tires on now that don't do well in the wet. I'm off to Tire Rack to find something better.
Congrats and welcome the NG900 fold :o) FWIW, we have Bridgestone Potenza RE92's on our '97 900SE; they've been very good on wear, exceptionally surefooted in the wet, and shown no wandering/tramlining (unlike prior Perilli P6000s and Michellin MXVs). My '01 9-3 is shod with Toyo Proxes
4's; these tires part water like Moses and stick like gorilla glue; great value/quality to price tire.
Yes, welcome. I like Conti Extreme Contact tires as of late. BTW- if oyu have the 16" wheels, you can go a little bigger on the tires and get more selection. It will throw your speedometer off a couple mph on the highway, but no more. Lots of us use 205-55-16 instead of the stock 205-50-16 and it works out fine.
I suggest that immediately have the upper idler pulley and serpentine belt changed... particularly the pulley. If you are DIY'er you can do the upper pulley in 10 minutes. With the belt, first time, and hour tops, $70 in parts from the dealer. The pulleys are know to go without warning after 45K miles of wear. If it goes, you stop, so replace it as needed.
If the clutch feels at all crunchy, or excessively tight (it is manual after all), then have the cable replaced or again, DIY. I think the cable is under $50 and requires about an hour and a half to replace as I recall. They are good for 45-75K miles before the go. This one stops you too if it goes.
One more thing: If your "DI cassette" is not listed as ever having been replaced, I would buy one and keep it in the trunk. They go somewhere over 60K miles. The part cost is about $240 if you buy on-line and you can replace one in 10 minutes with tools (a torx drive) that Saab gave you in the trunk. The usually give some warning before going bad but that's only a couple of days so it's nice to have one on hand. IF you never need it, you can always sell it to another Saaber with no problem. $400 at the dealer so buy it online from eeuroparts.com (note the double ee).
If you have service records that show any of these items being replaced previously, go from there. If you have any other problems, post here... most of the things that go wrong with these cars are well known and we can point you in the right direction.
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