93 9000 Stock Amplifier Replacement

But if you can still hear something, the fault must be a broken cable or connector. The break effectively leaves a weak capacitive barrier where the AC (LF or HF signal) can get across.

Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new head unit that doesn't require an

Yes! I replaced the original audio system on my '93 9000 last year with a JVC unit for £99.00 It has radio, CD and mp3's (6 plus albums on one CD ROM :) It also contains an amp that is louder and clearer than the original under the seat. Your speakers should sound OK by the way.

The 3 position switch is basically a volume control for the amplifier. Check the fuses out. There are 2 hidden fuses in the radio head end side. I don't recall if there are any fuses in the amplifier unit itself. Keep in mind that the front speakers are powered from the radio unit and the back speakers are powered from the separate amplifier unit. dave

Sorry to butt in here Dave - but how straight forward might it be to wire in an older 9000 series CD and Radio into the 93 9000 loom? I have both heads (Tape/Radio + CD) from a 1989 and I've been looking at replacing the Sony the PO dropped in.

Thoughts? Comments?

Johannes: The sound is coming out of the front speakers only, which are powered by the radio itself. The two back speakers (amplifier powered) are producing no sound at all even with a new and supposedly working amp. Could this still be the case? I would hate to get a new head unit and then have it be the wiring that was at fault.

Dave: all fuses have been checked multiple times by myself and several other people more qualified than I. Just in case, I'm going out to the car to check again.

Nasty Bob: When you replaced your system did you have to bypass the factory amplifier? If so, how did you do it and what would you rate the difficulty as? I'm eyeing getting a new system from Crutchfield.com due to their awesome support, but I'm wary of the amp. I've heard from somewhere that bypassing amps can be tricky and I'm not sure my wiring/electronics skills are up to the challenge.

You have to get an old to modern head unit cable adapter - cheap and available from most car audio retailers. I recall having a problem with the continuous +12V supply though, and ended up having the unit fitted for me by a local specialist for a modest price.

Good Luck

I'm puzzled by what you say.

My old '93 9000 never had a decent audio fit and had some half working Sony CD / radio head in it when I bought it. I replaced it with a new Aiwa unit that was on special offer since it didn't have the mp3 capability of its replacement. Paid about £60 whereas the mp3 capable new model was £130. It has claims 160W ( the usual auto audio PMPO no doubt ) and gave an adequate if not very engaging performance.

I just got my '94 9000 and it came with a full Saab audio fit. It has the Cassette / Radio in one DIN cassette and the CD player in another one and has the amplifier under the passenger's seat.

I have to say I'm startled by the fabulous performance of this combination. I half exepected it to be 'worn out' but it works fine and although the amplifer is 'only' rated at 2x40 Watts it's clear that means *real watts* not the stupid PMPO figure that aftermarket gear quotes that inflates the real figure by 4x.

In particular the bass is startlingly realistic and extended compared to the replacement head unit I fitted in the other car and the whole audio setup is another little joy of driving a Saab.

I'd recommend getting the Saab audio setup working again !

Graham

I'm puzzled by what you say.

Doesn't take much...

I have a newer series head end sitting on the shelf right now. It was installed in an 89 C900. This particular radio and bucket, (and equalizer), drove the 4 speakers directly from the radio. The connections to the car mated up correctly. Since late model C900's and 9000's of similar vintage, up to about 94ish, used the same radio's, your '89 setup should plug in if you swap the bucket(s), providing the "PO" didn't hack up the wiring too badly, and the radio setup you have doesn't need the separate amp. Some older series clarions had a "pigtail" that hooked up to the remote amplifier, .5volt hi impedance line level. The pigtail is fader controlled to the rear speakers. I'd have to look up my notes to give you the pinout. I use a line level amplifier to boost up the .5 volt signal to drive a vintage Fosgate 150. Works fine for the subs. A bit rough on the coach work tho', quite the thump in the trunk. Oddly enough, inside the bucket of the Clarion with external amp, there seems to be provisions to drive 4 speakers directly. The Clarion setup in my C900 ragtop was ok at best originally. I had enough volume, but no bottom, so to speak. The addition of the subs, while a bit of work, has made a world of difference. I use an RF modulated

Oh, nice tunes btw!

dave

By now I'm sure you have checked the fader setting. (Sorry, I had to ask.) There should be a green wire to the amplifier that goes to 12 volts when the radio is turned on. This is the line that goes to the amplifier turn on stuff and the antenna motor. No 12 volts on the green wire means severe volume issues. I have seen several radio's of the clarion persuasion that for one reason or another just quit putting out that 12 volts. If you should decide to bail out and put in an aftermarket radio, it's not that bad. Just remember that the rear speaker wires don't go to the radio itself. Any radio you install will need to be wired with that in mind.

dave

Haha yeah, that was the first thing I checked and I made absolutely sure again when I went out there last time.

The rear speaker wire goes to the amplifier to be amplified and all that jazz, but I can't say I recall seeing a connection leaving the amp headed for the rear speakers. In fact, the amp only has two connections: the circular power connector and the squarish 6-pin one coming from the radio. The wiring diagram shows the amplifier connecting pretty much directly to the speakers, so I'm not really sure how that's working. Any insight?

I'll have to try and find someone with a multimeter to check voltage levels on that green wire, I don't have one handy here. Thanks for the tip though. As nice as this wiring diagram is, it doesn't go into as much detail as I would like it to in places.