'94 900S Rear wheels not verticle

What you're describing is negative camber. The car is designed to have -1.4° to -2.0° camber, which should be barely noticable if you're looking straight on at the rear of the car. This car has a semi-ridgid rear axle, therefore, AFIK, there are no adjustments. If you're camber is truly off, I would think you have a bent axle.

*sigh*

It IS noticable from just looking at the car from behind.

I guess I'll have to take it to the local repair shop and get their insight (and estimate CO$T). ARGH!!!

Thank you Jim.

Jim M wrote:

It is one of the parameters that gets checked on a 4 wheel alignment. Have you had that done recently?

You can check camber yourself at home. Find a level place to park and hold a carpenter square against the wheel, or better yet hold a carpenter level alongside the wheel in a plumb position. Measure the distance from the square/level to a flat surface on the outside of the wheel lip at the top and bottom of the wheel and find the difference. Do the same on the other side.

Knowing that difference between top and bottom and the vertical distance between these two points you should be able to calculate the angle with a little math.

camber = inverse sin (measured distance / vertical length).

Reference:

Fred -

Thanks.

The camber is easily visible. It's wacked, to be sure.

I'm just HOPING it's an adjustment or "shim it" issue versus a new rear axle.

Still, it'll beat making car payments!!

Again, thanks.

-- D> snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

The 9-5 (~2000) have a common problem with the bushings where the rear axle suspension arms are connected to the chassis. If these are worn, you could get sloppy handling and excessive tire wear. I dont know the suspension of the 900, is it very different? In sweden this is typically a USD 300-400 job, including wheel alignment check.

Good luck

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

All --

Spoke (via telephone) with the local shop (not a dealer, but a reputable Volvo/Saab/Audo shop) and Gary said it is MOST LIKELY the axle and it's a "high hundreds" repair ... almost $1,000!!!

Yikes. The car's not worth that much.

So I think I might just buy some tires ($200) and drive it another year or two on those.

I'm wondering ... okay, this his hokey ... but if I were to very carefully put a floor jack under the center of the rear axle and push up ... bend it straight? I figure I don't have much to lose.

Also; is axle replacement something a reasonably mechanically-inclinded person can do in their garage??

Thanks a ton,

-- D> The 9-5 (~2000) have a common problem with the bushings where the rear

I wouldn't bother with that if I were you. Even if the weight of the car were enough to bend the axle (which I doubt), your chances of actually making it better are pretty slim.

Yes, I think so. I've had the rear axle mostly detached from my c900 two times, and it was a *much* easier job the second time for two reasons: the experience of doing it the first time, and having air tools.

So if I were you, I would arm myself with a good shop manual, good tools, and much more time than you think it will take ;)

John

ps- also don't overlook the fact that you will have the brake line apart and will therefore need to know how to bleed the brakes

If you take the calipers off and support them why would you need to break the hydraulic line?

Air tools I do NOT have.

Rent?

Excuse to purchase? I love that!

"You see, honey, it's cheaper for me to buy these air tools and do the job myself. And then, in the future, I'll have the air tools ..."

Wait. That's not good. Then I'll ALWAYS be expected to do my auto repairs myself.

I just talked myself into paying someone else.

Thanks guys.

-- Don

John B wrote:

Actually I was referring to the brake line that goes from the body to the axle, not from the axle to the caliper. I suppose I'm making the assumption that the brake lines don't go directly from the body to the caliper on the ng900- my experience is mostly limited to the c900.

Funny you should mention that though. A few months ago I did brake work on a

9-3 for the first time, and I was surprised that the rigid brake line ran right to the caliper (no flexible hose as on the c900). I had to remove the caliper to replace the brake rotors, and I didn't realize that the rigid brake lines provided enough flexibility to leave the hydraulics hooked up. So like a fool, I did the extra work of disconnecting and reconnecting the hydraulics and bleeding the brakes. Oh well, it was a learning experience.

John

You don't absolutely need air tools, they just make things faster. But yeah, it's a good excuse to purchase new toys :)

John

Heh. I just recently did that job too on a '98. But I was following the procedure in the SAAB TIS and it said they could stay connected so, I did. Probably would have been a good excuse to flush the lines though...

Okay here's a good question:

Let's say I pick up a used rear axle to replace my current one.

How do I know if the new (used) rear axle is bent or not??

Also; is there a way to check the rear axle while it's still on the car. Something akin to a long straight edge or something?

For the past four or five years, I've had a terrible string of bad luck, and I just KNOW that I'll put on a new rear axle and it won't fix the situation; either the new axle will be bent or it will have been something else.

Seriously, if you want to make a bundle on, say, betting on the NFL, just ask who I pick and PICK THE OPPOSITE!

As the song says, "If it weren't for bad luck, I've have no luck at all..."

-- D> John B wrote: