Changing the coolant header tank. Help!!!!

In article , snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Cheers. Appreciated. Very weird it is. Boost gauge and heater controls work fine for about 10 mins. Don't know of that is the limit of what is in the vac cannister, or until things get warm.

Then, no heater controls, and the boost gauge either doesn't move at all, or only shows positive vacuum, showing boost, but settling back to the neutral position, or even occasionally sticking a little into positive (just below where base boost would be), then gradually slipping back to neutral.

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 04/11/2003 22:36:

Just a thought - did you get the pipes the right was round on the vac canister? It almost sounds like the canister is being pressured up with boost, rather than holding vacuum.

Paul

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It worked fine, and displayed fine for the last couple of months. Wasn't until I dropped the dash to replace the brake servo, that I have these problems.

All I can think is I have a partially blocked or trapped hose that I have nipped underneath.

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I've had the radio turned down a little the last few days. I'm sure that I've heard a his/squeak that wasn't there before when I lift the clutch pedal.

Although it could just be wear in the clutch mechanism that I haven't heard before because I wasn't listening to it too well, and the music was up louder.

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 06/11/2003 00:19:

Carl,

What was the verdict? Is all well with the vac/boost now?

Paul

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Yeah, sorry mate. All is well. I did post what the problem was, but it must have expired.

After dropping the dash again, I replaced all the hoses I could get too (mainly boost ones) and put it all back together.

Before I took it apart and started swapping hoses, I should have looked at what I did the previous weekend. When I broke the header tank, and had to replace it after doing the brake servo, I had managed to trap one of the vac hoses under the header(the one that runs in the space between the header and the inner wing). As the car gets hotter more water transfers to the header, and also it expands with pressure. It was expanding enough to pinch the hose. if I had seen that before going under the dasg, I would have been fine. Managed to bugger up the car PC while I was under there, think I've blown the VGA controller on the motherboard (it's only 3 months old, so I could try to blag it as a random failure and send it back, because a PSU that I bought at the same time packed up almost straight away). But that was the last of my disasters. Everything else is fine.

Still have a slight vac leak somewhere, as switching to the top and middle selector setting gets the cannister quacking, and cruise still doesn't work. But I'm getting boost upto and hodling at the very high end of orange almost into the red.

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 23/11/2003 22:28:

Thanks for the reply - I must have missed it. Are you on Blueyonder? I swapped back to the full news service a month or so ago and decided to return to the text-only. I probably missed it in amongst.

A ha! That's cruise stuff isn't it? I don't have that problem :)

Maybe, seeing only bad news, I shut my mind to your replies at that time :)

Those are pretty much the only positions I use on the vent selector, but I find this time of year is nice to switch to the 11 o'clock heat position and open the passenger window. You get the heat and the nice winter smell. Now I've got a new cabin filter (thanks for the confident recommendation Grunff), I don't get so much engine smell.

I think the odd quack is not too much of a problem. Mine does from cold starts again now the weather has changed. Have you got a fixed vac/boost gauge yet? Once you have, take a look at the vac readings when switching position on the vent controller. If no significant movement is noted, I wouldn't worry.

Nice boost. What PSI? That's pretty much where mine is. I'm going to have to take it easy on this tranny until I get it fixed. My garage gave me the good and bad news today. Good in that they have a trusted guy who can recon my box and bad over the price (eek!). Still, 600 quid is nowt, compared to the hassle of buying another car.

Cheers bud,

Paul

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Don't know what boost. Still need to get a proper calibrated boost gauge, but, now the air is cooler, and I'm running almost exclusively on Sainsbury's SUL, it is peaking higher, just nudging the border between orange and red (about 3-4mm into the orange), and hardly drops back at all. It is actually pretty much holding what it peaks at, and seems to come on boost a lot earlier too. On premium unleaded, and the warmer days (and prior to me swappign all those hoses), it wouldn't seem to boost until about it was at close to 3750/3k now it is starting to build not much after 2250 and has almost reached full boost by 2500.

Must get a calibrated guage in there some time. Just need to find a decent but cheap pod mounted one to discreetly hide on the dash somewhere.

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.cis.dfn.de, MeatballTurbo at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 25/11/2003 06:43:

I'm very happy with my Racetech and Tim pod, but one of those Autometer gauges with peak recall look the business. The Autometer uses a band to secure it to wherever you choose in the car - presumably on the A frame would be the most discreet.

Paul

Thanks, shall follow that up.