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DI - yes again!

Had my first DI failure. 1995 900SE (Turbo) 150k miles. Engine has been misfiring -slightly- for a couple of months. I could hear it missing at idle when waiting at a traffic light. A few weeks ago, the -check engine- light came on and stayed on, but the next time I started it up there was no more light, and it hasn?t come on since (not related??). Finally last week - on my way to the garage to get the left CV joint replaced(!!) it started running really roughly. Didn?t know if I would get there, but just made it. While the car was in the garage, the DI cassette went full belly up. Replaced it with new OE part and all is well in the world. Don?t know if they changed or checked the plugs while they had the thing out.

They gave me back the old one, which I thought I would disassemble to have a look, but it turns out the whole thing is sealed in resin, and disassembly is not possible. I can see that one of the projecting contacts is cracked where it makes contact with the plug tip. Also, one component is completely cracked where it sticks out of the resin, but I can?t really see what it is. From its size and shape it looks like it could be a relay, but then it could just as well be a capacitor, or just about anything else. Markings on the protruding side do not indicate values one could associate with any particular component, but it is cracked to hell.

Now can someone tell me why I have to have CV joints replaced every year? The boots get torn, and the joint loses its lubrication and gets contaminated. That part is easy to understand, but why do the boots get torn? I do not drive off road or on gravel or any other harsh condition, yet I am constantly replacing CV boots, then sooner or later the CV joints themselves.

Reply to
VOR-DME
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I once took a DI cassette apart (my 1993 9000CSE), but found no electronic components other than the coils. The DI is fed by 400V from outside, looks like all the pulse shaping is done in an outside unit. The role of the coils is to step up the 400V to a high kV range for the sparks. the 900SE coils may be different? But it would make sense to keep as many components as possible out of harms way.

My 1993 CSE (186k) has never had CV joints or boot replaced. What are the symptoms that they need replacement?

Well, I once upon an old time had a Renault 4 with bad CV joints, you could feel the horrible backlash cased by the slack.

Reply to
johannes

I once took a DI cassette apart (my 1993 9000CSE), but found no electronic components other than the coils. The DI is fed by 400V from outside, looks like all the pulse shaping is done in an outside unit. The role of the coils is to step up the 400V to a high kV range for the sparks. the 900SE coils may be differet? But it would make sence to keep as many components as possible out of harms way.

My 1993 CSE (186k) has never had CV joints or boot replaced. What are the symptoms that they need replacement?

Well, I once upon an old time had a Renault 4 with bad CV joints, you could feel the horrible backclash cased by the slack.

Reply to
johannes

My first thought is cheap rebuilt components. If the boots are not good quality, that will be the reason.

Also inspect them (the boots) frequently for rips, and if you catch it early then you can get away with just a boot (assuming the boots are replacable...)

Reply to
PeterD

VOR-DME said the following on 05/09/2010 12:07:

My old 900s (pre GM) lasted 10+ years with original boots. I got them at 12-13 years old. Once I put aftermarket boots on for ever I was changing boots, just as you say.

My 9000 from nearly new lasted around 100k miles when both boots needed doing. I did one and forgot the other ... that was the first boot I ever had split on me.

  • Use originals (well pre-GM originals lasted a long time).
  • when you park on full lock check the boots. If the rubber looks cracked (on the inside of the folds) ... you have weeks or a few months before they go.
  • CV Joints can be saved by being thoroughly washed and repacked ... but a garage would not do that (understandable) because they will charge you for time whilst it is easier to replace the joint (which they have apart to fit the new boot)

  • You don't use the glueable (whatever they are boots)?

Cheers Charles

PS. On DI cassettes whatever Johannes says ... :-)

Reply to
Charles C

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