Dump Valve Fitment - 1984 T16

Hi Again,

Carl - you may have answered this already, so apologies if so.

My car definitely has NO dump valve. I was thinking the cheapest solution would be to get a s/h forge atmos valve and the rubber elbow from a car with a dump valve, and fit it in the position the original goes?

Apart from the unideal position away from the TB, is there any big problem doing this? I reckon I could reverse the elbow and have the DV sticking out the front, should keep it a bit cooler?

Or, I could go to the hassle of removing the TB off an old engine I've got about, using that with a recirc valve?

Opinions always wanted!

KR Mike

Reply to
Mike P
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in article snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de, Mike P at snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net wrote on 04/08/2004 20:37:

Hi Mike,

I did this on my 900 T8:

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The throttle body is from a T16, although I don't know what year. If I were to improve upon this, I would simply use a 90 degree reducing pipe (from SFS Performance or Samco, et al) so the valve points forwards and is positioned away from any wiring or other pipework.

I use the Forge FMDV004 (atmospheric) valve. I know of several others who use this valve on T8s, T16s, T16S model and former LPT 900s. The dual piston design gets around any "stalling" problems, but make sure you run a strong enough spring. I use the blue spring (second strongest) in mine with boost up to 0.9 bar. I tried out the yellow spring (second weakest) and got variable top boost and some near-stalling when letting off from high boost. The red spring (strongest) is definitely for higher boost applications (say

1 bar plus) and feels like not having a dump valve for normal driving. The different coloured springs can be obtained from Forge as a "tuning kit" for about 10 GBP.

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S
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Paul Halliday

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