failure to start

Did it start & run before you replaced the cap+rotor? What made you decide to change them? What if you take the new one off and put the old one back on?

Are you sure you did not loosen the distributor body and rotate it, or worse; pulled it out, and put it back in again jumping one or two gear teeth? - check the timing, either static or with a strobe light.

What about the coil? (I am not really familiar with SAABs newer than the

96...) but I know a defective coil sometimes seems to pruduce a spark with the plugs out but no sufficient spark when the plugs are in, against the compression and fuel etc.

From the description I uinderstand it is an injection engine. If there is fuel at the injector connection it does not mean the injectors work - is it an elecronic or pressure regulated injection system?

(just thinking out loud...)

-------- MH '72 97 '77 96 '78 95 '79 96

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Reply to
MH
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That would normally be good advice, but not on a C900 (or a 9k for that matter).

I know you don't know newer saabs - so it's a fair assumption. But in case you're interested - on C900s and pre DI 9ks, the dissy is driven directly off the end of one of the camshafts. It mates with the camshaft with a pair of offset dogs (two little teeth, slightly offset from the diameter of the shaft). So there's only one way it can go on.

Reply to
Grunff

Good.

Yeah, just one bolt. But don't do it!

You don't generally measure the timing on cars with non adjustable timing, because you can't adjust it so there's no point.

It is easy, but why would your timing be off? I think you're jumoing too far ahead. Something you did while changing the cap and rotor has stopped the engine from running. You need to figure out what that was, not go messing with the timing.

Reply to
Grunff

Right! I know the 99 has a gear driven distributor so I asumed it would not be different on a 900.

actually sounds like an improvement....

FYI, my next SAAB purchase will be a c900 convertible.as soon as I have made garage space available by selling a NS.

----------- MH

Reply to
MH

in article snipped-for-privacy@iris.uk.clara.net, Grunff at snipped-for-privacy@ixxa.com wrote on 19/12/2003 09:24:

Grunff's amazing powers of deduction get better by the day :)

Derrick,

Have you been through the process of returning the original parts onto the car and replacing them one by one?

Stating the obvious, but are you *sure* you've got the rotor arm on correctly. Look into the back of the rotor arm and offer up the profile to the distributor and push firmly on. Likewise, the cap - it only fits on properly in one orientation. Is the HT lead from the coil to the cap sufficiently pushed in at both ends? Have you got correct OEM specification replacements?

What about the power connector to the distributor? Was that removed to get at the distributor cap and has not been re-seated since? I've done that a couple of times. [OT: Grunff (or other well informed chaps) - what does this power connection do, since the engine still turns and the sparks still spark (I think), but the engine will not fire.]

This one's quite a mystery.

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S
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Reply to
Paul Halliday

See, the odd thing is he says he's getting a juicy spark on all

4 plugs. That makes me think that the spark is there, but coming at the wrong time. Elementary. :-)

The one on the side of the distributor? Supplies the hall effect sensor with +12v and 0v, and takes signal output from the hall effect sensor to the ignition amp (which uses this signal to switch the coil on and off).

You shouldn't get a spark without it connected.

On older 900s without electronic ignition, this used to be a single wire, which went straight to the coil. This supplied a switched ground to the coil via the contact breaker in the dissy.

Reply to
Grunff

[snip]

I don't know this particular car but I thought that with a conventional distributor, there's only one position that would work. Surely the distributor can only drive one plug at a time and that needs to be the right plug?

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

Ok.

It's off because I screwed it up.

Yes.

Screwed up the timing by rotating the shaft. You seem to agree on that (Messge-Id ), as did the counter guy at Advance Auto Parts.

I looked at a light at a local parts shop and asked the counter guy how to use it. He wasn't familiar with Saabs, but gave me a general idea. My girlfiend's dad used to do a lot of work on various vehicles and his description sounds a lot easier and feasible than the one the counter guy gave me.

So, what do I do to check and correct the timing? I understand the engine must be running (or at least cranking). I connect the light to plug wire 1. Where are the marks on this engine? Are they on the flywheel? What must I move or disconnect to get to them? What direction or angle do I point the light in? Do I need someone to assist me? Is this something you'd recommend I try and learn the "hard way" or should I call a real mechanic now and wait to play with timing (on my own engine) after the auto repair class at the local community college?

Thanks (all of you) for all of your help in eliminating various possibilities and creating a certainty as to the actual problem and helping me recall the critical detail of what I did wrong! (that last part was the hardest -- if you don't know/realize/remember what you did wrong then it's harder to go back and see if it has been corrected :-)). Even though I screwed up big time, I at least feel better knowing what is wrong and what to do to fix it (even if that means calling a real mechanic). I won't repeat the mistake, that's for sure. (well, I hope not, but I did learn a lesson or two)

-D

Reply to
Derrick 'dman' Hudson

So you undid the distributor clamp? Unless you did, you couldn't have messed up the timing.

Are you sure you need to? Really? I can't see a mention of you undoing the distributor clamp anywhere.

Reply to
Grunff

Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual on the Saab 900 and read the ignition chapter.

No, not necessarily. You could do a 'static timing' first

And to the + and - battery and to the 'breaker' contact on the coil.

Yes

Nothing, there's a viewhole in the plastic cover over the flywheel & clutch

Straight down into the hole

Yes, get somebody who has done this before, preferably on Saabs who can be your mentor

Adjusting the timing is a simple thing to do if you know what you are doing, but honestly; I think this is over your head. Admit defeat, take the car to a (Saab) garage and they'll have it fixed within 15 miniutes. (happy christmas anyway...)

----- MH '72 97 '77 96 '78 95 '79 96

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Reply to
MH

[long saga snipped]

I had the car towed and checked by a real mechanic who works with Saabs. The problem was the starter. When the mechanic went to look at it, the engine did nothing. It was turning over for me, but I can only assume that the starter wasn't in good enough condition at that point to actually start the engine altough it would make noise and I could verify spark and fuel delivery. I think the original problem was out-of-gas and the starter was burned out while trying to start the engine after that point. The car is working now.

Thanks for everyone who tried to help me locate what I had done wrong in maintenance procedures.

-D

Reply to
Derrick 'dman' Hudson

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