Head Gasket

Hi, Took my 2001 Saab 9-3se in for a scheduled 70 000km service yesterday. I was shocked when they told me that the head gasket is leaking and would probably need to be changed amounting to a cost over 1000 euros. They suggested first to try tightening the head bolts and if it still leaked after this then change the gasket. Is it worth to try tightening the bolts? does it normally help or is it just borrowed time? what is the cause of a leaky head gasket? I always thought it was an old car disease!

thanks, keith

Reply to
keith gatford
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It is definately worth a try, there is definately a problem with Saab 16 valve engines with head bolts coming loose, so much so that I have been checking the head bolts on them as they come in for a service if I know they have not been checked before. At least half of those checked have loose bolts, some so loose that they are only finger tight. 95% of the time retorqueing the bolts fixes the problem. HTH Tom.

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Reply to
saabtech

I'm all worried now. I might have to check mine...

They're stretch-bolts aren't they? How do you know if they've worked a bit loose - or can you only spot really loose ones?

Can you re-use the cam-cover gasket?

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

What years does this apply to? Seems like something worthy of a recall if it's happening in so many cars.

Reply to
James Sweet

You can't tell by looking. You can tell with a wrench but you need a torque wrench to redo them. You also need a very large torx bit - I forget which size. Since it is not a new gasket and you are not using new bolts, you have to improvise on the specs a little. Use the pattern in the book, bring them up so they are all at 50lbs, then up to the spec, then a bit tighter. I say a "bit" tighter because the book will say (when new) to pull them to 72lbs (or so, AFAIR) then turn another 45 degrees. That was really not comfortable for me so I picked a reasonable setting and torqued them up a bit more.

This is advanced DIY. You're on your own here.

Yeah, but since it only costs a few bucks, take advantage of the opportunity to replace it.

Reply to
Bob

Thanks Bob,

Yep, it's the improvising on the spec thing I'm a bit worried about. The spec for my 9-3 says 30lbs then 44lbs then 90 degrees. 44lbs sounds quite loose, but the extra 90 degrees sounds like it should only be done once per bolt. I suppose I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

Yeah, I hear you. I made a WAG that the torque was very high, since the difference in the two settings they give in the book does not require much of a turn - so that 90 degrees is a major pull up in torque. I thought they would be "on use" bolts but despite a lot of reading I could not find anyplace that it actually said they had to be replaced if you pulled the head. Anyway, torque them to

30, them 44, then pull one about 45 degrees and see what torque you get. I was not comfortable pulling them more than that.

FYI - I checked on the torx tool. It's actually a "reverse" torque. That is, the head bolt has a "torx bit" on top, you buy a torx socket to fit. Mine says size "E16". Most autoparts stores should have individual sockets you can buy.

Bob

Reply to
Bob

Sounds sensible. If I find any loose ones, that's what I'll do. At least they won't be loose anymore ;o)

Yep. It certainly won't be the first extra socket I've had to buy. I can hardly get the lid shut on my "best" socket set.

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

I believe the loosest will be the front right corner as you face the engine. Let me know :-)

Reply to
Bob

Will do. It might be a couple of weeks before I get round to it though

- For now I'm trying to make it an accelerometer, which is, of course, far more important than keeping the head gasket in one piece ;o)

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

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