Manual Boost Control/Bleed Valve......

OK time to start a flame war!

Genuinely thinking of one of these for my T16 Aero......

Gentlemen, start your flamethrowers.

Al

Reply to
Al
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No flames here. But maybe in your engine compartment?

You will lose all of the "advanced" features of APC. It will not be able to adapt to various conditions (atmospheric pressure, fuel octane, etc.) If (when) there is knocking the boost will not be limited and the engine may self-destruct.

-Fred W

Reply to
Malt_Hound

I'm using one on the Celica. The factory control is a basic bleed valve controlled by the ECU. Does a bad job and slows down spool. Swapped for an MBC (Dawes type not bleed) works good. Wouldn't consider one on a Saab though. Why not tweak the APC and boost cut switch, they can be made to go much higher. Consider a redbox or M APC if you haven't got one already. The Toyota T-VIS cannot be adjusted.

If you insist on a seperate controller, think about electronic dual stage twin solenoid controller. They can react much faster and more accuratley than a ball and spring, and you can cut boost spikes almost totally.

BTW, has anyone fitted an Emanage the Bosch LH or Lucas injection?

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Hmm, think I may be going down the tweaked APC route, seems simpler and I can do it in stages.

900aero.com has loads of info on the above. will keep you informed.

Not really looking at getting much more out of the old girl, just what I'm entitled to!

Cheers

Al

Reply to
Al

See what I mean. The proper job protection. Been doing some research. A few people have built Megasquirt ECUs that will plug straight into the Saab C900 loom, with the adition of the Megasquirt ECU Map sensor, and an intake temp sensor (and a Lambda sensor if you have a pre CAT C900), you can have the Megasquirt controlling fueling and ignition and taking the knock sensor signal from the APC.

A Megasquirt is a fully 3d mapable DIY engine management system that you build yourself, or pay someone to assemble and test.

Volvo owners with LH systems have been building them, and adding APC technology for turbo 240/260's for a while now.

You could get better fuel economy, more power, have proper control over larger injectors all the things that you wished you had but didn't want to change your car to get.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Yup, just looked at megasquirts site..... Now concrete and steel I can handle but this lot is beyond me, I think I'll stick with bridging R42, replacing the F pot etc. I can just about handle that....:-)

Al

Reply to
Al

in article ugbHe.68853$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk, Al at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote on 31/07/2005 22:20:

Finding the true cause of your basic boost oddity would be the ideal scenario ... and then run an uprated APC box.

A cheap Dawes device would be a good start. I like those ones from Turbosmart that can be actuated off a switch. I'm thinking of one for artificially raising my basic boost to a suitable level for my uprated APC box (which I only run occasionally).

So long as you neuter the APC boost control function and keep things at a "safe level" (read about 0.75 bar peak boost) and always use high octane fuel, I can't see a problem. You can of course leave APC in there as a mere knock detector. Run an LED off a 12V source to the anode and a solder the cathode side to pin 19 in the APC box.

But ... Ideally, figuring out the problem properly would be good. Using the MBC as an interim solution should be okay ... So long as you keep things quite standard.

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S
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Reply to
Paul Halliday

Paul, great to finally meet you at the national on Saturday!

Yeah, I'm going down the check and reset basic boost route first. I invested in a speedparts boost gauge from Elkparts, which I intend to fit at the weekend.

I suspect a dodgy dump valve (again) so was fishing round for vac pipes this evening and managed to knock a couple off, cant see where they came from! Aaargh!

Engine is hot now and the light is fading, so I'll have to use my wife's

9000 Anni' tomorrow, (how unfortunate) Tomorrow I'll be on a search and repair mission! Then I can finally check base boost, I'm pretty sure this is at the root of my problems. Tweaked APC's can happen when I'm happy with the rest of it.

Got another recon AMM today, seems better (no boost improvement though) but car idles at 200-300rpm and stalls. So over to Phil and Phils when I've sorted out the vacuum pipes for a tune up.

Cheers for now

Al

Reply to
Al

in article ugbHe.68853$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk, Al at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote on 31/07/2005 22:20:

Hey Al, just thinking around your problem. I can't quite recall some of the details of the troubleshooting of your issue, but here goes ...

I just had a basic boost scenario today - turned out to be a bad ground at the APC solenoid valve. If you can use a multimeter, check that no resistance is found between the black wire on the APC solenoid wiring and a good ground point. Voltage can be seen with the key on, but a bad ground will give a basic boost scenario. If so, rewire to ground.

I spliced the wire and connected straight to the battery - I'll rewire with new wire to the correct ground point in time ... Honest :)

Paul

Vart tog vägen vägen? SAAB : Nothing on earth comes close

Reply to
Paul Halliday

Paul, cheers but I have now fitted a graduated boost gauge, Speedparts from Elkparts.

I disconnected the APC solenoid and got about 0.22 bar base boost, with the APC I got about 0.6 bar. So I'm not just getting base, just not quite what I am "entitled to" if you get my drift! To be honest she's still a scream on fast roundabouts and goes like a train. It may just be old age, hers not mine!

I have another recon AMM from Eurocarparts,and this one seems to be all there, not stutters at 3800rpm, but idles very lumpily at 200-300 rpm. So guess what? Off to Phil and Phils tomorrow for a quick calibration, I'll keep you and the group informed.

Cheers

Al

P.S. Managed to get stuck for four hours at Digley Reservoir yesterday, (Near Holmfirth in Yorkshire) whilst our RAC mechanic searched Dorset for us.......next time we'll sign-up with the very nice man, (Sorry US it's a UK joke only as far as I know)

My wife's 9000 Anni' ran out of fuel?!? Comp said 51 miles to go, and fuel light had only just come on a mile before. We parked up, went for a walk and on return 3 hrs later she wouldn't start. RAC took me to get fuel, and vroom vroom jobs a good un.

Anyone else got experience of dodgy fuel sender issues on Saabs in general and 9000's in particular?

Reply to
Al

in article aLMJe.137688$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk, Al at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote on 08/08/2005 18:37:

Another idea about Al's "basic boost" problem.

... Like an LPT, then :) Get basic boost setup to 0.35 bar and you'll be just about right for the T16.

Fingers crossed!

Paul

Vart tog vägen vägen? SAAB : Nothing on earth comes close

Reply to
Paul Halliday

Wahey! Phil has done the trick! OK so boost levels are the same so I still need to alter the base boost. However, the fuelling must be better because in fourth and even fifth on the M1 yesterday she was pulling like a train. The

70-90 acceleration was better than ever, sure as hell surprised the beamer driver tailgating me around Junction 36!

Base boost is next job, although it doesn't look as if there's much thread left on the waste gate actuator....

Al

Reply to
Al

in article bWPKe.8889$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk, Al at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote on 11/08/2005 23:02:

Yay! Phil's "the daddy" :)

The threads are very short on the Garrett charger setups. Shorten the arm by two and half full turns in the first instance and road test. Ideally, 0.35 bar is just right for standard setup, so you might need another half turn, or so to get it bang on. If you like it now ... You'll love it when it has the right power!

Great news, mate ... Enjoy :)

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S
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Reply to
Paul Halliday

Yep. Doesn't look much thread, but it is pretty fine.

When I did mine, first thing to do is set the preload. Should be about

3mm. Disconnect the actuator rod. when left slack, it should be about 3mm too short to nip onto the stud it clips on. It should stretch until it clips on. After that, tweakit a turn at a time. Alternatively, space the actuator from it's mount with washers, can give you a little more room on the rod threads to play with.
Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Yeah baby! the AMM certainly helped but sorting out the base boost has done the trick. It was a nervous few minutes freeing off the lock nut etc without twisting the actuator. Three turns has given me a further 0.1bar base so a further 2 to 3 turns is required. However, just had a cold one so I'll leave it for now. Drinking and driving don't mix.

Cheers Al

Reply to
Al

I know about the redbox, everytime I step on the gas pedal :-) There is a reason for having V-rated tires and a manual transmission when you have a redbox on a Saab.

Reply to
ma_twain

Excellent. Time to think about finding a red box, now I'm a C900 owner.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

in article snipped-for-privacy@news.individual.net, Sleeker GT Phwoar at snipped-for-privacy@bouncing-czechs.com wrote on 23/08/2005 09:03:

900 Aero website will be a great friend - just mod up the black box to red box specifications. Okay, a couple of internal components are *slightly* different, but ...

Paul

1989 900 Turbo S
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Reply to
Paul Halliday

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