Re: Good Snow Tires for Saab 9-5 Aero?

If the surface between the wheel hub and rim is not cleaned (as it should be) then the corrosion/salt deposits/sand/junk/whatever could result in the wheel hub and rim surfaces not being parallel. The result of this is bending forces on the screw when the threaded part follow the wheel hub and the conical part follows the conical hole in the alloy rim. The garbage can accumulate during winter because the alloy and steel rims have different sizes on the area that rests against the wheel hub. The bending forces on the screw can weaken the screw and have in some cases resulted in broken screws.

The fix is a new set of wheel screws. The difference is that the conical part of the new screw is free to move. A picture on my homepage

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shows the old wheel screw as #2 from the left, new wheel screw as #3 (conical part close to head) and #4 (conical part close to threads). Screw #1 is a third party wheel screw with the same dimensions as the Saab wheel screws.

If correct wheel change procedures are followed (clean area, torque screws in a star pattern, use correct torque) the old wheel screws should be perfectly fine (and Saab does not replace them on the Aero as the Aero can not use the 15" steel rims due to the large brakes). If you alternate between alloy and steel rims and don't follow the correct procedures (or are not sure that the workshop follows the correct procedures) then the new wheel screws will remove one possible problem.

Ah, looks like the same way they fix a similar force problem in the tool holder for metal lathes - let the cone wobble, keep the forces on the shaft straight. Clever folks!

But, of course, you still should brush the hub clean each time you switch rims for the season, and of course anti-seize is a must.

Thanks for posting the pictures, I still need to get in to get my set. I wonder if they'll let me keep my current ones as spares...

Dave Hinz

Ah, but the rust in question is on the periphery of the hub, where the steel wheel contacts it. If there's too much grunge there, the wheel won't go on fully, but the bolts will pull it in fully, exerting a bending force both on the wheel, and on the bolts. The wheel can take it, but hardened bolts aren't real keen on that sort of thing.

The real fix is to clean the hubs, not just the bolts. But, I'll go get my set of 2-piece lugbolts, anyway.

Dave Hinz

The flat one, on the plane with the rotation of the tire, no. But the bolts, and the inner edge of the steel wheel where it goes no the hub is OK, right?

I think we're both saying the same thing?

Grumble. I was at the dealer yesterday to get taillight bulbs (which, turns out, were 1157's...grumble...) and forgot to ask for my bolts. Damn. It's fairly out of the way, too.

Oh well - Dave

As you say, the flat surface on the plane with the rotation of the tire should have no anti-seize.

The bolts should have just a small drop of oil. If the bolts are lubricated too much then the torque spec will be wrong and the bolts will be too tight.

The inner edge of the steel wheel is an ok location for anti-seize, but on the 9-5 it is also an advantage to put anti-seize on the part of the hub that protrudes out of the rim. This part sticks out more than it did on the 9000 and if it rusts it will be harder to remove the wheel.

Probably, but it doesn't hurt to be very explicit.

Tirerack.com does not carry Nokians.

Also take a look at Green Diamond tires. 

Too bad they don't have dealers in most of the country, e.g. Colorado...

I have heard about these - looks like we have a few months to decide what to do - but green diamonds on an Aero for the winter, might just do the trick!

Hm. Better than Nokians, which I almost got last winter?

I'm in an area where we get occasional ice & snow, but most of the winter the roads are dry. So e.g. the Gislaveds aren't a good answer for me -- great if you live in a super-snowy area, but not so good for dry roads. In fact I drove the car all last winter with the stock Aero tires, which

*suck* on ice & snow, and only had troubles for about 4-5 days all winter. But that's pushing my luck, so I do need some kind of snow or all-season tire. I'm interested in noise, handling, and lifespan on dry roads, and good performance on snow, more than ultra-amazing performance in snow.

Gary

I'm looking for a tire with some of those same characteristics. Saab's going to need new shoes before the end of summer. I also need something that's good on wet roads. Get a lot of rain and not much snow and ice but enough winter driving to take it into consideration since we've also got a lot of hills and twisty roads. It's a 1995 9000 CS I got used two months ago. It's got worn Michelins on it. I'd like something with a bit better ride and less noise for long Interstate drive. I'd be willing to trade longer life to get it. I saw these Bridgestone Turanzas at Tirerack and they sound good. I'd love to hear if anyone has experience with them.

snipped-for-privacy@madmousergraphics.com

design, print design, photography

As you can tell I am a rel fan of the Green Diamond's but they are certainly not for all areas.

They are unique design with carbon crystals embedded in the tire so you have the same grip as you would have with studs but with regular tire performance and not the noise and regular road destructiveness of studs.

They are a bit noiser than some all season's but quieter than others.

All I can tell you is that two winters ago I hit a patch of black ice traveling around 40 mph while getting out of the way of a flock of turkey's on the road and the Nokians on the car just didn't cut it. I got interested in the Greed Diamonds reading threads here bout a year ago and the rest is history.

They will serve you well in eareas where you have a bit of snow and ice but you dont want to leve them on all year ... like most snow tires they will only give you 20K-30K before you need to replace theym.

They are for climates where Saabs are happiest like the frozen Northeast (which is now very unfrozen an dbloody hot). Ted Harris Resource Strategy Henniker, New Hampshire