Saab 9000 Belt Tensioner Restraining Tool

You won't be tightening the pulley bolt. At least I hope not. If the bolt is that loose, you would have been in trouble long before replacing the belt. The tensioner would have come apart.

The bolt should be tight enough so pushing with the breaker bar simply relaxes the tensioner.

I have made mine own tool in the beginning. Found it not working very well. I tried using a 8" C-clamp a couple of times also. The clamp would often slip. Then I found the breaker bar method. IMO nothing comes close to the breaker bar. But I am not surprised people still prefer the tool. It is described in the SAAB shop manual.

Part of this job is to replace the tensioner pulley; the other part is replacing the alternator. What does the SRS sensor look like, meanwhile; the light stays on and there is something dangling below the grill.

If you send it to me now, I promise to return it promptly. By the way, Ampro sells a serpentine belt tool (through Advance Auto Parts, local to me). Have you seen one? It's here, too:

What of the above for it, instead? Now, you shouldn't need little hands and could do it from the top, right?

The SRS light is entirely separate from this. Why now the alternator? Whay do you think you need to replace it?

Don't know what you're trying to show me. It's a internet parts source. What about it?

There should be a serpentine belt removal tool displayed, I'd like to know what you think of it for removing that belt on a Saab.

I'm getting steady, rhythmic flickering dash and headlights at idle. It improves some, but not much, if I raise the rpms. Actually, the vote is 3-2 that it's an alternator problem. Testing by Advance Auto Parts, Midas Muffler and the dealership, which claimed they also tested the grounds (but I don't trust this one) say it's not, while two indie shops with solid backgrounds say it is, that a diode is certainly bad. Yes, SRS is entirely different but I still would feel relieved to know an SRS sensor is not what I'm seeing.

I would not buy it, because I know the breaker bar method works and works very good. If I knew nothing about the breaker bar method, I may be tempted to get it. The breaker bar and the 19 mm socket are both general tools I can use regularly. I wouldn't spend more money on tools only for one specific purpose if I have tools for general purpose that do the job. Would you?

What't the voltage readout when the dash and headlights are flickering? I suspect the SRS was triggered by the voltage dip. I'd replace the voltage regulator on the alternator first. It's cheap enough even if it is a wrong guess.

Does the tool look like it works, though?

And, what exactly does a breaker bar look like? I have a 1/2 inch ratchet but it's only standard length; would that work as well?

Is there enough room to use a 19mm deep socket in there?

That's the way (VR replacement) I've decided to go, too, at first. But I'm afraid the SRS might have been my fault. I removed the bulb check relay over the flickering dash/headlight problem and didn't put it back properly. To compound matters, I removed the SRS fuse to track that down before I knew removing it could require resetting the computer.

If you can extend the 1/2" drive ratchet by another 10", you have yourself one breaker bar. Either that or you have extraordinary strength. A 19 mm deep socket is too deep. Don't think it fit in the space between the car body and the engine.

I just checked with Auto Zone nearby and they have a free loaner belt removal tool.

Now do you think it will work, or no.

Sure it will.