the wifes saab has gone a bit funny on the gearchange. all the gears feel to be too far to the left, and there is not enough travel available to get into first or second on the far left. however knocking the gearlever all the way to the right and then going for first agressivly usually gets it, though my wife can't manage it.
Anyone have any idea on this one?
Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
My 9k developed a coolant leak recently, which took me a while to track down. I eventually traced it to the point where the crankcase breather connects to the air intake (just before the turbo).
Right next to it, there is a small rubber pipe apparently going into the intake. The other end connects to a thin metal pipe which went off around the block somewhere.
Anyone know what on earth this is for? Some primative form of water injection maybe? :o) It's the last place I was expecting to find coolant! Or is it a vacuum pipe and something else is leaking into the pipe?
Regards, Alan
P.S. a similar thin metal pipe goes into the turbo and out the other side - are they water cooled? I thought they were oil cooled?
My 9k developed a coolant leak recently, which took me a while to track down. I eventually traced it to the point where the crankcase breather connects to the air intake (just before the turbo).
Right next to it, there is a small rubber pipe apparently going into the intake. The other end connects to a thin metal pipe which went off around the block somewhere.
Anyone know what on earth this is for? Some primative form of water injection maybe? :o) It's the last place I was expecting to find coolant! Or is it a vacuum pipe and something else is leaking into the pipe?
Regards, Alan
P.S. a similar thin metal pipe goes into the turbo and out the other side - are they water cooled? I thought they were oil cooled?
The turbo is oil luvricated - the brearing is an oil-film bearing. The oil also carries some heat away from the turbo, so you could say it's oil cooled. But in addition, it has a coolant sleeve surrounding the bearing housing. So it's water cooled.
Turbos on most C900s do not have the water cooling (the later ones do). But all 9000Ts are water cooled.
Oh no no no........... The 9000 gained water cooling in 1987 and the 900 a year later!!!
Hi Mark
My old ('91, 199k miles) 9000 had just this prob. (twice).
It is a part of the linkage that has failed. Don't know the detail as the shop I use fixes it. The first fix was a 'keep it going' bodge, lasted about
10k miles. Earlier this year it went again, and the saab part was about £75 (IIRC).Must admit, it is lovely now it is done! What is the age/mileage on your wife's? Cheers J
Oh, ok - didn't know that there were 9ks in the first 2 years which were non-water-cooled.
Yes, ergo _most_ C900 turbos were not water cooled!
Hello Allen, Let me take a stab at this. Its to late tonight to go down back to look at my 89 9000 2.0L, but I think its similar to my 94 9000 2.3L. The pipe enclosed in rubber that goes from the large plastic inlet pipe to the turbo. Is a crankcase breather pipe hooked to the valve cover. Saab for what ever reason ( maybe to heat the air being sucked into the intake, to cut down on moisture in the engine) put a small heater hose,(if you would call it that) that splits off and goes to the front side of the throttle body, and heats it so that it does not freeze in the winter.The other side of the throttle body the small hose is the return side I think and hooks to the pipe that goes around the back side of the motor to the RH. side to the water pump. The small three inch hose you talked about I had to replace on mine. I this case water and air should not mix, just live in the same hose. Jean Paul
89 9000s 89 9000t 94 9000cset
Twas Sun, 9 May 2004 23:30:27 +0100 when "Jools" put finger to keyboard producing:
it's a 1990 and around 125k. any idea what they did for a 'keep it going' bodge?
Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Unfortunately I don't know the detail. He told me that the linkage from the gearstick is a complicated part, full of bits of rubber. Apparently one of these had broken. I think he either bolted or somehow re-connected 2 parts. The gearchange was then clunky, but at least I could get 1st & 2nd without slamming the shift from side to side!
Sorry I can't help more Julian
Twas Mon, 10 May 2004 10:22:24 +0100 when "Julian @ Work" put finger to keyboard producing:
Thanks Julian ;o)
Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
Almost certainly the gearshift linkage. Pretty easy to change, and readily available. Open the bonnet, and stand by the passenger side wing mirror (left side). Look down the bulkhead, using a torch. You'll see the link rod emerging from the lower bulkhead and entering the gearbox. Look for the rubber linkage.
Twas Mon, 10 May 2004 11:28:36 +0100 when Grunff put finger to keyboard producing:
Can it be worked-on from above or must I work from underneath? assuming it's the bush I'm going to need access to.
Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
My guess is that the part that is failing (Manual Gear Shift Joint) looks like this:
It can be accessed from above, although it might be slightly easier from underneath if you can put the car on a lift. IIRC, it was also helpful to put the gearshift into 4th gear.
Walt Kienzle
It can, but not very comfortably unless you have quite long, skinny arms.
Jean Paul, I just changed the hose this evening, and now it all suddenly makes sense. :) The change from metal pipe to rubber pipe confused me, plus I thought it was a vacuum hose going into the throttle body. Then I thought maybe the engine was sucking up coolant?!? What a strange design!
BTW, the old rubber hose had started breaking up, and just fell apart in my hands when I took it off. I replaced it with some reinforced fuel line pipe which should last a lot better.
Thank you, Alan
Jean Paul wrote:
Twas Sun, 09 May 2004 19:38:16 +0100 when Mr.Nice. put finger to keyboard producing:
Just so everyone who might need to know, or search on google or whatever. The replacement part cost me £19.16 including vat and delivery in the UK from
I found it was easiest to change by jacking and supporting the front left side of the vehicle and removing the front left wheel. The two left nuts could then be accessed through the wheelarch and the two right nuts from below. Tools were a jack and stands, a 10mm socket and extention bars.
Thanks for all those who advised on this problem, my wife is once again a happy bunny.
Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
I had what sounds like a similar problem, inc difficulty selecting
1st & 2nd, sometime it would jump out of gear. check the top engine mounts, that's the two rubber bushes at 90 degrees to each other. The rubbers don't seem to last very long. Mine were shot so I replaced them with some after market plastic (racing spec) ones last a hell of a lot longer and cheaper than saab part.Chris.
enough
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