07 Vue (V6) Ignition Switch Problem

I've been having a problem with my VUE ignition switch. I sometimes cannot turn the key or it will only turn part way. When I turn the ignition off it is sometimes difficult to remove the key. A local dealer suggested WD40. This worked for a while but the problem quickly returned. I tried the spare key with the same results. He claimed that this was a common problem with the 07 Vue.

Does anyone have a solution or is replacing the ignition switch key assembly the only fix? If so, is this an expensive repair?

Howard

Reply to
hslomer
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Go buy a tube of graphite based lock lube. The WD-40 did a great job of cleaning out the gunk, but it also cleaned out any lubricant (WD-40 is a short lifetime lube).

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I second the graphite lube and the fact the WD-40 cleaned it up. It got it ready for the graphite. Just keep a rag handy to wipe your key with when you take it out of the ignition for the first few days.

Reply to
Drooler

I second the graphite lube and the fact the WD-40 cleaned it up. It got it ready for the graphite. Just keep a rag handy to wipe your key with when you take it out of the ignition for the first few days.

Reply to
Drooler

I generally find WD-40 useless. As a penetrating fluid, others are far better (I use Kroil from KanoLabs.com). For lubicants, WD-40 leaves little or nothing of a film behind. After a day or so, there is no lubrication left.

Graphite lube is the traditional fix but it tends to be very messy. If you do use it, do so sparingly. A better choice is some of the 'dry film' lubricants that leave a dry film of Teflon after the solvent vehicle evaporates. Again, use this sparingly but it won't leave a mess like graphite. Sometimes you can get away with putting a light film of grease on your key and inserting it into the lock a few times. All depends where in the lock it is sticking.

Don't ignore if this is an automatic transmission, there is a cable from the shifter to the key lock. The key can only be removed in Park. The cable might be binding or need some adjustment.

Oppie

Reply to
Oppie

Thanks for your responses!

Removing the key has not been a problem so far. It simply will not turn once I insert it. It almost feels like I inserted the wrong key. Sometimes it turns to the ACC position and binds again.

I tried some Teflon spray lube and I will let everyone know how it works out.

I don't want to take it in for service since the local Chevy dealer has been designated at the "Official" Saturn replacement dealer in this area. My worst nightmare since I bought my Saturn was that Saturn would go out of business and that I would have to take my car to a Chevy dealer for service!!! My father and brother have bought nothing buy Chevy cars and both have had nothing but trouble from their service folks.

Howard

Reply to
hslomer

That's because WD-40 is not a lube...It's a Water Displacement formula (hence the WD). It's primarily meant to displace moisture build up and works great if you ever drive your car through water too deep or something....Spray it on Spark Plugs, Wires, etc...Used to spray it in the Distributer Cap (when they used them) when water got in there.. :)

BUT it does work as a side benefit to loosen up stuck things for a VERY short time. I second (or third) the Graphite lube solution below...

Reply to
IYM

I forgot to mention the basic issue of the steering wheel being held against the lock pin.

If the key is not turning properly and the steering wheel is in the locked position, turn the wheel slightly to get it off the lock pin and *then* try turning the key. Happens to me sometimes in the lw300.

Reply to
Oppie

Hi ,Howard!

Do you have a reason to think that you might be limited to the Chevy dealer? As far as I know, most GM auto dealers' service shops should be able to handle most any GM car. Also, different Chevy dealers can have far different customer service results ... my two experiences with Chevy dealers (one in Detroit, one in the Cleveland area) were both very positive, overall, although a very long time ago.

Reply to
SteveT

Steve,

GM has designated several (4?) dealers in this area as official Saturn repair facilities. The Chevy dealer is the most convenient. Another one is a local GM/Buick dealer which is difficult to reach, especially early in the morning during rush hours. The designated dealers are supposed to have trained mechanics, documentation and parts available. I wonder how many of GM designated Saturn repair facilities mechanics have worked on Honda engines or transmissions?

I was lucky that lubing the lock worked because it took eight days to get an appointment with the Chevy dealer and then they did not have the Saturn lock in stock! They confirmed that the lube worked and asked me to let them know if it starts acting up again and they will order the parts before I bring the car in for repair.

You are correct in that I should not condemn all dealers just because of my family's s bad experiences with a few of them. I guess I've been spoiled the last ten years by my local Saturn dealer. I bought three cars form them and had all of them serviced there with almost zero problems. I had one small dispute with a repair done on my 99 SW2 which was resolved two days later. Not a bad record for eleven years!

My brother on the other had just had a $800+ bill for new brakes on his three year old Impala at 24,000 miles and was told that it will happen again as GM not no longer has access to decent disks. According to them all brake disks used in GM cars are now made in China and are subject to rusting and pitting.

Howard

Reply to
hslomer

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