1992 SL2 - Aftermarket Disc Brake Pads

I think the key is refaced.. I use to reface my rotors always but in todays market for a few dollars more you can get NEW rotors. Once I started using new rotors and better pads all the problem went away. It is very very easy to warp a refaced rotor.. just stop suddenly at about 50mph and you'll probably warp them

Please read this in reference to "warped" rotors:

I used to have a lot of problems with these same symptoms when I first bought my '94 SC2. Once I switched to non-Saturn rotors and pads, the problem went away. At first I bought Wagner premium rotors (which cost significantly more than most other replacement rotors) and thought the improvement was due to their higher quality. But I've been experimenting in recent years on my 92 SC race car by using the cheapest possible rotors that I can find. And I've also been resurfacing them when they get grooved (can be as frequent as every 2 events, or a couple hundred road course miles). I've had NO problems with any of the "warped" symptoms even after doing this - which was a bit surprising to me at first. It's also made me not think twice about resurfacing rotors. It may be only a couple bucks difference, but I consider that a couple of bucks saved on this that I can waste somewhere else. :)

This is my real-life experience - it is not speculation or second-hand information. FWIW.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

I had read the article regarding "warped" rotors, and believe it to be true. I did notice that after a sudden emergency stop, the brakes would immediately seem to be warped. But, if you looked at the rotor (outboard side being visible), you would see an impression of the brake pad on the rotor surface. My thought was that coming to a complete stop while keeping pressure on the brakes after an emergency stop (i.e. hot rotor) would "weld" material from the pad onto the rotor. This now uneven brake surface would then give you a pulsing or "warped" brake operation.

The Akebono ProACT ceramic pads do not appear to be prone to that sort of issue - and in general seems to give an excellent "feel" to braking. Though it is claimed that the ProACT pads wear the rotor about the same as the stock rotors, it will be interesting to see if that is true.

By the way, I often did have rotors refaced because the "warping" occurred so often, and the last time I had it done it cost $12 (US) apiece, while new rotors could be had for around $14 (US). This latest re-facing was done at a different shop, and instead of just a cut surface, these had been finished in a mild cross-hatched method, much as you would do for either a brake piston bore or a cylinder bore.

Yep, me an my heavy fast foot were causing oem rotors to warp and much brake dust on my '02 SC2, so I switched to Brembo oem rotors and Akebono pads. I also changed the rear shoes to Wagners. Much difference in stopping distance, response and much less dust on my alloys. Very happy.

marx404

My thoughts:

- my cheap rotors discolored, delaminated and rusted so fast and so bad they actually were my most expensive rotors (per mile)

- my best set up is the Raybestos rotors with the Hawk HPS pads. This combo has seen multiple track days and were/still are flawless.

- I dismount/inspect my calipers 2-3 times a year to grease/inspect.

Frank

Scott wrote:

Thanks for the input.