I've got a '92 Saturn SL1 w/ 100K of urban driving on it. Several months ago I took it to a dealer for routine service. Part of the service was a tire rotation. I told them I just had the tires rotated just do the rest of the service but don't rotate the tires and don't charge me for rotating the tires. They replied they can't perform the scheduled maintenance w/o rotating the tires again. The maintenance wasn't done only an oil change was done. My question is does the drive train need to lubricated? What about the front end CV joints? The standard shift mechanism has become stiff and the door locks are harder to open. What should I use to lubricate the locks and shifter?
IMHO you need to find a dealer who will do what YOU request. It is your money any they should be happy to do anything YOU want. I cannot imagine that this car is covered by any warranty and as a low mileage (for it's age) car would be expected to need special extra maintenance due to its lack of normal use and city driving. I would recommend short engine oil change intervals. You do not say what your climate conditions are but corrosion is likely to be causing more problems than wear.
AFAIK there are no lube points on the drive train but age may cause the CV joint boots to deteriorate and they should be checked regularly (at each oil change or any time grease shows up in your wheels, wheel wells or under the car).
I suspect that this car is in need of a half life major servicing. Don't let anyone sell you special fuel flushes or anything expensive but do the simple and inexpensive stuff.
I would recommend a transmission fluid (and filter if autotrans) change as this is cheap preventative maintenance. While you are at it change the power steering fluid. Likewise the engine coolant could probably use a change. Any oil will work for lock strikers and latches but there are some specialty lubes that will not collect dust or oil your clothing, you should also lube the hinge pins on the doors and hood, and wipers. The shifter cables and linkage may need to be disassembled to lubricate properly and are likewise probably suffering from lack of use.
Use only correct lock lube for the key locks and ignition, most garages will not have this lube but any locksmith can help you.
You may expect brake system problems due to old brake fluid, I would recommend a change of fluid if this has never been done. You are probably due for parking brake cable problems, not much you can do about it but do not be surprised and service them if you need to do anything with your rear brakes.
If you still have the original accessory belt (used to be called fan belt) they are cheap ($15) and can be changed in about 15 minutes. Save the old one for a spare, it is a perfect fit around the spare tire.
You may be due for new plug wires if they have not been changed. Save the old ones for spares, they will also fit with the spare tire.
Find a mechanic that understands older cars and will do what YOU need. A dealer may be more interested in convincing you that it is time to trade for new or (shudder) newer but slightly?? used. Better to stay with what you know. This car has depreciated about as much as it is going to and has lots of life left if kept oiled properly.
No, it's not covered by any warranty. However, I faithfully have it serviced. The last scheduled maintenance was somewhere around 100K - rotate tires, lube locks, and I don't remember what else. They weren't trying to sell me extra work, just perform the scheduled eminence, which I always have done. They wanted me to pay for a tire rotation which was done by the dealer. I drive 5K - 6k a year and change the oil every 3 - months. I live in the mid Atlantic region snowy winters and hot humid summers. I use Castrol GTX 5w - 30w. Been thinking to changing to 10w - 30w. I don't buy oil or gas additives. It;s a standard transmission at 69K I had the tranny oil changed, The dealer told me tranny oil lasts a lifetime, yeah right. Flush the coolant every 30k, been thinking I should flush it more frequently due the low annual mileage. Plug wires and fan belt changed around around three years ago., break fluid changed about four years ago. I'm going to look for a mechanic and dump the dealer. What is half life maintenance?
The car is almost perfect for urban driving eg, easy to park, don't worry about dings, reasonable gas mileage, etc. I hope to get a couple more years out of it. It's got some rust around the roof where it meets too sunroof and I've managed to destroy the plastic grid under the bumper by head in parking to close the curb. A friend has a 2001 or 2002 Toyota Camry that I'm going to buy in a year or so.
"Mike" wrote in message news:GYHxe.12936$Fn4.732@trnddc06...
This is great, you could probably stretch this a little in the summer but is ideal for winter. (If this was mostly highway I would only change spring and fall. You could do spring and fall and one midwinter.)
10w30 may be better for summer if consumption is a problem (or puffs oil on startup) but if not then IMHO just keep using 5w30 year round.
Good, you do not need them.
Great, keep your feet on the floor and do not ever rest your foot on the clutch, do not use the clutch as a brake, (brakes are lots cheaper than clutches). Be gentle on the cluch pulling away from stopped, up shift under
3500 rpm (smoothly, do not slam shift) and your sycros will last forever. My wife has 150k mi on her original clutch but mostly highway driving.
I agree with you. The tranny only holds 2.5 lt and is easy to change (pay by the hour at time of other oil change). The first two changes are the most important to get rid of the break in wear metal but I like to continue to change at about 50k mi intervals.
Std glycol is great for two years and good for more within reason. Your interval is fine and a LOT better than most people..
These should last you for several more years. (with luck)
Good, brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture from the air. Do not open the reservoir unless you need to add fluid and only use fluid from a new unopened container. Your brake resevoir is plastic? so you can check the level without opening. If you need to add fluid then you have a leak that should be found and repaired.
Good help is hard to find.
When a machine gets to be old enough that you think it is at about half its ultimate life, (and you intend to keep it) you stand back and assess the components that have given good service but will be unlikely to last the rest of the machine's life. If you will need to replace these components sometime you can change them now and the replacement should last the rest of the cars life. From the sounds of your maintenace program you have already done most of them. As always the first rule is that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" The next time you change plugs do a compression check, a leakdown check is even better. Have your mechanic inspect all the rubber hoses for cracking or brittleness or hardness. Pay particular attention to the small induction air and vacuum control hoses. Check the PCV valve and the air filter (or change, it is cheap, but I bet you have already done this). Check the EGR valve (for free operation). Inspect the motor mount rubber (I doubt you have a problem but many report deterioration of the upper motor mounts, which I have always suspected was caused by lack of smoothness when shifting gears) Check the exaust and mounts and pay particular attention to the muffler strap that is prone to corrosion. (I have had better service from the (several) coat hanger wires on mine than I got from the correct strap. If this strap fails the muffler will ride on the rear axle and may be easily damaged or lost. I usually replace the fuel filter at this point but on the Saturn the filter is (relatively)VERY expensive and the fuel line connections are somewhat funky. If you have been using clean fuel I would wait until you have a (fuel pressure) problem. (Indicated by missing, running out of gas at full throttle, high load, uphill) Brake pads are a usage dependant maintenance item. Wait until they are worn then use good quality pads and NEW (offshore, cheap OK) rotors (do not machine turn or grind). I have had problems with severe rotor corrosion on original rotors. Use nevrsieze on caliper slides.
We have had good sevice from both of our SW1s, and have found them very functional.
I do not like sunroof due to problems with rust (under rubber seal) and leakage. Sounds like rust (or accident) will be what will determine the life of your car. Keep on top of the paint and do not allow rust to go untreated. I would be removing any bad paint or rust and doing spot repair with some kind of antirust or heavy oil. I have had good luck with this if done regularly and have lately been experimenting with heavy oil foundation coating and roofing tar. I am a little worried about the oil pan as mine has been beat up by gravel and is showing corrosion. It seems impossible that an oil pan could rust through but I have heard of this occuring to others.
We all have this problem, the short precast curb blocks that are anchored by steel pins that stick up above the curb are the worst. I have given up replacing the under rad plastic and have noticed no overheating but YMMV.
I have no personal experience with Toyota but have had good reports.
I do not know how old the car was when you got it but it seems to me that you have taken very very good care of this car and should expect LOTS more good service. I would not be in any hurry to change. The devil you know and all that!! The only expensive thing you should be prepared for is a clutch and that is mostly driver dependant. I do not think anyone can predict this and I do not know what is the max that can be achieved in your service.
I really don't notice anyy change in the clutch or how it reacts. A buddy got 180K out of his clutch on a
92 SL1 (highway driving)
"This is helpful, I'll make not to change it around 19K more miles.
OK
Will do.
Radiator hoses changed last year.
Check the PCV valve and the air filter (or change, it is
Last year, changed EGR vALve and cannisters due engine error code. Don't remember about the PCV valve.
Inspect the motor mount rubber (I doubt you have a problem but
Will do.
Check the
Will check.
Fuel filter replacement was part of the scheduled maintenance that was not performed during my last service visit.
The original rotors gave me a fit. If I didn't use the car for a couple of weeks the brakes would stick and I had toengage the clutch and gas to break them use.
I've been negligent w3ith the body work and need to get it taken care of.
My only concern is the plastic grid seems to be designed to protect the air conditioning coils.
I bought it six years ago from a friend who had it routinely serviced at a dealer.
How much will it cost to replace the fuel filter or the clutch?
This is not really excesive oil consumption (in the old days we said that a V8 engine that didn't burn this much was too tight) but it is more than we experience or like. I normally add a quart every 2200 mi when I use high quality oil. I recently tried some Walmart Tech2000 oil 5w30 just as a test and used the first quart in 1650 mi and the second at 1350 mi. Went back to higher price oil and used 1/2 a qt in 1700 mi. I would think that the difference is due to the city/highway different usage.
When the car was new I would change all the oil when it was down a qt but now I add a little then change when down a qt. I aim for 3600 mi/change.
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good news for me now at 145k
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valid concern
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good used is a valid strategy especially if you know the previous owner and can trust the history.
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The fuel filter is over $100 + 1/2 hr shop labor approx.
The clutch is a real wild card and really depends on how badly the garage wants to beat you up. Make sure you get firm quotes for all labor and expect to change the clutch, preasure plate and probably re-face/grind the flywheel. DO replace the release bearing when it is apart.
The good news about a clutch job is that it is a lot cheeper than a rebuilt automatic (and usually lasts longer) the R&R labor is about the same as an auto but the parts are a lot less and there is a high early failure rate with rebuilt auto trannys.
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